I use Forscan to set the chimes to only use the cluster speaker. I had the same problem. Easy change resolved it entirely. Turn off the fake exhaust sounds while you are in there and you will get more perceived performance from the stereo as well.
Assuming you mean you are now wired with amp 1 to dash and amp 2 to kicks. Did you set the dip switch for bi-amp mode? That enables crossovers.
I use volume at 24 since I think that is closer to when the HU starts to distort. With gains all the way down use the Lab Grade Pink noise WAV...
Also, the Key 200 provides a remote out that should be used to trigger the key 500. DC offset will work but it has a delay on turn off that resulted in sub thumps. Remote from the 200.4 worked better and turned off in unison. So Using DC offset just on the Key 200 then remote wire to 500...
All told, the Key 500 install with Additve Audio 3d box and Kicker L7T 8” went pretty well. Taps off the factory sub harness gave good low level signals. Fitment is excellent. I put tons of deadener in the area with focus on any area the box might touch.
now, I almost came on here to...
Here a couple of pictures of what my loop that returns the head unit power to the rear pods looks like on my harness now. There’s no reason to make a big loop so it’s only a couple of inches.
There are proper crimp connectors under that. I just use cloth tape because it keeps the bundle tight.
@RagnarKon did exactly that way. Changing from parallel to series will change the ohms from 2 to 8. That will be a lighter load on the amp. However, there are major costs to that approach.
As wired stock, the kick and dash split the power they receive. Using the key, that would mean at 4...
should be pretty cool if you have the 3 way all figured out? .
Did you source a dash template/bracket for a tweeter and 3”? I found a guy who sells them for $150 instead of the $400 I’ve seen online.
3d printing pods should be easily doable. I found this in one shot.
https://www.printables.com/model/1253818-tweeter-pod-for-scanspeak-d3004602006/files
Assuming you don’t mind spending the money (they are not cheap) and you also don’t mind paying somebody for the dash adapters, I would put...
More important question is Why. Tweeters are very directional. You will be drawing attention to the rear stage which is the opposite of SQ install. If max volume is the plan for top down blasting sound, then maybe buy a plastic tweeter pod and attach next to the 6.5 pod? I’d personally just...
Yep. It can be a little tedious, but it’s not that bad overall. Looking forward to hearing your results once you’re done DSP tuning, and setting gains. Remember to set your fader full front and remove the fuse for the subwoofer amplifier.
bTW when @RagnarKon finally changes his set up, he...
In the kickpanel? You want a stand alone woofer. Not a coaxial or separates. If you use the bi-amp setting, you will be running the kicks in a limited frequency range. They are crossed over at 640hz so frequencies above that won’t play in the kick. If all you have is a coax speaker then it...
You got it. We are rewiring it so that it acts like the harness isn’t there for the two rear channels. We’re just passing head unit Power on channels three and four of the head unit back to the rear pods.
I just reread these two things in your prior post. I did all of my DSP set up with my head unit volume at 24. That is about whenever it starts to clip. You shouldn’t be raising and lowering volume while you’re setting gain if that’s how you’ve been doing it. I set my gains using pink noise...