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Yes. Great fun! BTW, I am also running a mix of active and passive crossovers: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

That would be what I would do. I ran an older version of the Hertz component speakers in a previous car and giving them more power will show what they can really do. No comment on bridging the Kicker Key to a 2-channel, it looks like it may not be possible. You could try running it in bi-amp...

Same question - what is your red, remote line wire connected to? And is your turn-on mode switch set to DC or REM? I have the same amp in my Tundra and have had no issues like you describe.

I have 2 new unused new ones that I am not going to use. PM me if you want them.

Not exactly sure what you are asking? Are you going to run the Kicker Key with channels for dash L and dash R and then the other 2 channels for kick L and kick R? Or bridge the key into a 2-channel and then run 2 of them? What Morels are you running? Great speakers, but performance is highly...

Chiming in since you bumped this one and nobody has responded. On option A, you are not going to gain much by adding a Kicker Key 200.4. Adding a mono amp and sub will definitely help. Option B - how far do you want to go? You can take a good amp with DSP and use speaker level inputs...

I would disagree with this comment about the DSP. I have never done a full DSP tune before this and it was actually way easier than expected. Real DSPs, not the Kicker Key version, are not just for competition or high-end systems. I would not build a car audio system without one after doing 2...

What is your frame of reference? Meaning have you had well built car audio systems before? If not, go with what everyone has said, do a Kicker key amp, speakers and some kind of sub and amp. If I was trying to upgrade the audio for $1K, I would do a 5-channel amp with decent power, front...

You are now sending a full signal to the rears from your front channels. So the built in high pass filter for the rear channels is no longer happening. Same reason why your sub works now, full range signal to all your speakers.

Yes, set everything flat on the head unit EQ. Set your amp levels and gains. Then you can always use the head unit as a master EQ if you want to tweak further. If you don't have one, get the ACR-1 (I think that is the one that goes with your amp) to use as a sub level control.

Before you were pulling the sub signal from your 3/4 channel which are the rear speakers. The rear speaker output from the head unit has a factory high pass filter that doesn't allow any sub frequencies through. So you were getting no bass to the sub. Now you are summing the front and rear...

Try this: 1/2 - 3/4 bus sum to sum Crossover type on 3/4 to high pass Crossover on 3/4 high pass frequency to around 100Hz Disable accubass (for now) Channel 5 crossover to around 80Hz Channel 5 gain down (for now)

Are you running stock speakers?

What are the other components in your system?

Audio Control DSP. I did the tuning myself using the electrical signal playing pink noise then an RTA playing pink noise. Then playing various types of music at varying volumes. One interesting thing I have observed after going through a few rounds of DSP tuning is the difference between in...

500W @ 2 ohms. Very happy, I think the down firing box plus the amount of power really helps in an open top Bronco.

I agree. https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-dsp-speakers-and-sub-lots-of-pictures.43856/

Should sound good with those components! I applaud anyone that can do their own install and doesn't just go with Kicker Keys.

That amp has serious power, I have the DSP version. Have you done any tuning of the amp other than maxing out the gains? With as much power as it has for the sub channel (and all the channels), you shouldn't need to have the gain way up. Are you using the channel summing to make sure you get...

More info would be helpful. Which AC amp and how is it wired to your kickers and Hertz in the front? Which Kickers in the dash?