With the 2.7 and the design of the fuel injection Ford doesn't think it's necessary to add a catch can because there's very little likelihood of deposits forming on the valves. Although that might be true, there is still the issue of whatever oil mist that makes its way into the combustion...
I think they purposely stepped in and did that because they didn't want people putting on catch cans...the 21 and 22 part is only like 10 bucks (so I didn't care about breaking the retainer) and I'm not even sure if the 23 part is available yet and I think that was done on purpose as well.
You are more likely to find additional oil on the PCV side. I don't think anybody NEEDS catch cans but they do what they are intended to do. Note that as your engine wears, blow by increases...no one with low mileage on the Bronco should be getting a lot of oil out of their catch cans yet...
Which ones so far are working well on the 23s without coding? I have only the Mishimoto on my 21 and so far zero issues...I have nothing to compare it to personally but have heard others with other brands share code stories with theirs even on the 21s.
IMHO as a mechanic who has witnessed what oil can do when it goes to places it shouldn't I believe catch cans are an effective way to capture excess oil vapors and keep them from negatively impacting octane/reducing combustion efficiency. With the design of our fuel injection system, I'm not as...
I might have been thinking of the catch can I have on my Sprinter...it has a drain on the bottom with an o-ring. I imagine that a pinched o ring or a loose cap would definitely throw a CEL, and it makes sense that Ford would tighten the ECM range on the newer models because they're probably...
No CEL light yet for me...is it possible your can was shipped and the drain plug or lid is not tight? I believe if the system detects a leak it would trigger a CEL.
If they are, for distance, you could put u-clamps from the bottom up.
Pack Mount for 20 L/5.28 Gallon Gasoline Pack Gas Container Fuel Can (1 Piece) https://a.co/d/aPeXK5P
They fit with that specific can...you'd need 2.
I went to that site yesterday...the size it's missing is 69.5. The oetiker clamps are extraordinarily sensitive to specific diameters...if you size up even when you crush the assembly as tight as you can get it it'll still be loose and if you go a size down I don't think you'll be able to get it...
I like that idea but it creates an instant significant reduction in departure angle...if that isn't an issue then harbor freight has plenty of hitch mounted carriers. The bummer with that setup in addition to the departure angle is that because our spare stick out so far you need extended...
I went down a very expensive rabbit hole with this exact same question in mind with my two-door...first the RC reinforcement thinking I could somehow modify it to mount an MFC carrier, then the BAMF...then Hammer Built...etc. unless you're only going to carry 2.5 gallons, I recommend at least...
Flip also indicated that the clamp that goes around the housing end of the boot is an oiteker 69.5mm (7mm wide). The other end on a stock tie rod has to expand to 19 mm. I swapped to the 3.0 tie rods, so I need to retain the boot and stretch it over the 2 mm larger diameter 3.0 tie rod...and...
We can all thank @flip ...he has super manual access! He kindly provided the entire install and removal section... I just posted that particular section because I think it's going to pertain to all of us who are frantically swapping out to RC bushings.