No definite channel in mine but yes a definite slight difference in internal diameter...what appears to be hash marks around the internal circumference from machining on a slightly smaller diameter rise/ridge and then a larger diameter just after that. I am an used to a 90° channel with snap...
The snap ring doesn't actually sit in a proper machined channel, does it? It feels like only a slight hump...did yours look like this when snap ring was installed?
I have Raptor hinges and new design HB plate with accessory arm. Hinges are about 5 pounds each, HB plate is just under 15, accessory arm is around 5 I think. Methods as well...that saved me 10 pounds vs. SAS wheels. For my heavier stuff I run a swing out...Road Armor Stealth.
That should do it! I went with the McMaster-Carr clamp mainly because it ships and arrives today and it is the exact same clamping range as the OEM clamp...I had to buy a pack of 10 (but it cost less than ordering the minimum order from belmetric and the shipping).
My 2 cents:
1. It costs 600 dollars...on the expensive side for what one gets.
2. Half the hinge assembly is aluminum...the other half is steel. The weak link is the aluminum. How many OEM steel hinge failures have we read about in the forum? Zero...the aluminum tailgate or the formed sheet...
I was worried that because my aftermarket bumper is closer to the tailgate then OEM that with that tailgate limiter dropping down so far beneath the tailgate that my strut may scrape on top of my bumper... How much room is there between the top of your bumper and the bottom of the strut?
You got your M2M already? How exactly does it mount?
I suspect your HB plate is first gen if you ordered it for OEM non-Raptor hinges...that will not work with RTR adapters because of the angles.
They will with the 2nd gen HB plate. It is drilled for both the OEM hinges and Raptor hinges...and because the Raptor hinges are about 1/2 higher than the OEM hinges, it worked out well that the RTR adapters make the OEM hinges about 1/2 higher. I also like that you can remove one bolt at a time...
That was my plan...I thought RTR can carrier was a work of art, but it ended up not being designed for a MFC (I'd take the MFC over a Jerry for the win) and the entire setup would have been over 100 pounds with gas. Along with the spare, that set up would have been like having another person...
Using aluminum is an interesting choice for a reinforcement...hopefully it works out for them (that and the reinforcement bolting to only the 4 passenger side OEM tire carrier holes). There are other options out there if you are seeking proven systems...you could go with steel OEM Raptor hinges...
Yes...you would just screw in one of the little squarish shaped brackets right above the B pillar in that hole that holds on the trim for your airbag. Then you just unbolt the forward most bolt for the hardtop on the tub, and put another bracket on each side, and then the bottom straps would...
Happy to announce that Raingler has sorted out the nets for those of us who have 2-doors (they also offer 4-door nets for those of us who prefer the extra doors). My not-professional-at-all quick video:
I had Raingler nets on a Jeep way back when and they lasted and lasted...so I for one can...
Definitely the one I would have gone with... the only ones on the market that aren't open top are AFE, Injen, and Mishimoto...and only Injen does away with that 90° driver side plumbing. Coincidentally, it also shows the highest horsepower increase...I highly recommend a dry filter if at all...