You can purchase the sun visor with the Home Link buttons built in and IIRC it has the connector ready to go. Even if not, it will be an easy wiring job. This is the OEM visor from Broncos that came with this option. It's way overpriced but the integration and ability to not carry a clip on is...
No on the OP, but relevant:
My stock suspension was absolutely overwhelmed in my recent huge 500 mile Baja trip (EXO). It was as much or more comfort/harshness and NVH as suspension travel or bottoming. It was also definitely wheelbase as the stock F-150 Raptors were so much faster. Not to...
Based on some prior discussion here it seems like the total movement range of the float sensor (or equivalent floatless design) in the new tank is different, one can not fix this with any algorithm. IIRC the factory sensor bottoms out before the tank is empty.
Well, lowering to 50% EtOH immediately and completely fixed the issue for over a week.
After said week, I did check with my service dealer as to the known issue of wastegate actuator arm nut retorquing as they did the passenger side only (which threw the same code on pump gas 1 year or so ago)...
There wasn't a lot.
P0299 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Underboost
And a PCM "Freeze Frame"
A year ago, before tuned and before running EtOH, I also had a turbo shut down, same P0299 and it was due to a loose wastegate locknut. A known Bronco issue. TSB (and my story) here.
Thanks in advance!
Good question.
I couldn't tell from just the FORScan DTCs, I couldn't even definitively conclude lean or near lean. Obviously, with the HP Tuners suite (provided by ZFG with tunes) you can log everything of interest, but you've got to decide to log before any such event of interest.
As some of you saw in my prior post about saving some $$ and gaining performance via ethanol (EtOH) I've been experimenting with various gas octanes and multiple ZFG tunes (91, 93 and E50). Also extensively using my fuel blending app which can blend to a desired octane level, big just EtOH %...
My rig has a factory sub. No harness needed. Just run a separate , appropriately sized power cable from you battery to the sub amp and then wire as per the OP.
The thing you quoted again assumes you have a factory sub.
Thanks for answering questions. That should be particularly useful for those wishing to leverage your install in theirs.
You already admitted your first estimate was an understatement by 1/3rd.
I'm not trying to be a PITA, I'm happy to end this thread of the discussion.
It's not about me feeling anything...
I still call BS on the updated 2 hr claim. I'm not a bad wrench at all and I can barely get anything done in 2 hrs. Just yesterday it took me 2 1/2 to replace my damaged antenna cable from in the trans tunnel to the mount on the drivers side mirror. That...
Nah, I gotcha, just messing with you. A compressor wasn't for me.
Your install, complete, with compressor, wiring, all hose, fittings and routing work on frame and each fender well was 90 minutes? Honestly, don't buy that...
Also, anything you do with hose install with a compressor you can do...
Cool set up, but a lot of install work.
Lets race, perhaps air down and air up, including hose tasks :wink:.
I have a 10 lb CO2 tank in the rear on a shelf.
I run one long 400 psi rated hose to each wheel sequentially. I looked for a reel solution, as I do hate uncoiling and recoiling the...
Not true on both. The plug is plastic. How could it possibly get glowing hot? Even if your talking about the metallic cover bolt, 200° isn't anywhere near glowing hot.
You can also get the trans up above 205 by driving aggressively without power braking.
I wouldn't run that much additional weight in that location without a set of the JCR roof rack reinforcement brackets which route the roof loads into the roll bar.
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/BR6MT-RP.html
I chalk tested and wear monitored my stock tires and posted about it elsewhere. Low 30s is best, closer to 30 cold and 33 warm. This is optimized for street traction and wear, not mpg.