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I like the innovation, personally I would have gone for females on the vehicle. I thought about doing something like this, but MN winters would have had their way with everything and I think the hoses/ fittings wouldn't last many winters. I use a diy 2 tire system that works well, small...

I'd go PPF for the bottom 1/4 of the doors and mud flaps if your sticking with the goodyears. PPF has a life span, and IMO it's nasty towards the end and removing it.

They are perfect for what they are made for, mainly daily driven with some off road on an OEM tire bred to give the best mpg possible. I like them, other than the rocks slinging. Air them down as they are thin tires.

Unfortunately I can't endorse hammerbuilt specifically due to the powdercoat. Bummer cause i like the system Had it for 1 MN winter and its rusting more than any other powdercoated item, even my fabfours front bumper (which has seen 2 winters). Paint is actually flaking on the edges. Yes I've...

I'd stay away from the Hammerbuilt system if you see ANY type of salt. After 1 winter in MN (BTW a record LOW winter for snow/temps which means very little salt) there is a fair amount of rust forming, mainly in the small nooks and crannies, but also along the edges. It is also pretty bad where...

Well- Unfortunately I CANNOT recommend the Hammerbuilt system. After 1 winter in MN (BTW a record LOW winter for snow/temps which means very little salt) there is a fair amount of rust forming, mainly in the small nooks and crannies, but also along the edges. It is also pretty bad where the...

I'm pretty sure the chances of breaking a tie rod on stock anything, on pavement, are near zero. But, if it did happen I'd assume it'd be under warranty.

Here's my take, AR is a relatively new company that has hit the gold mine but can't/won't make the necessary changes to survive long term. I hope they do, and I hope they hire just 1 dedicated person, even part time, for customer support. But who knows. Maybe with the upfront cost of machinery...

Looks great. good point on the bumper rubbing, something i really didn't think about. Really digging the tires Any rim spacers? Have you ran it through full articulation/lock to lock to check rubbing? My goal is to run 37's, without spacers, on stock sas rims with 0 rubbing and minimal lift...

Do I like the $$ of this and would I ever pay it? Heck no. But, for someone who sits at a 9-5 or longer, at a desk, has never offroaded, has a ton of money but no time to plan, This could be an easy sale. Not the worst thing, would get people, who normally wouldn't do something like this, out...

I'm looking more into it, when I got my disconnect, it was in 2 pieces (2arms) I put it together so it was even (arms were at same angle). I'm thinking, and I'm reading more about sway bars, that possibly the arms should be slightly offset to add preload. Any one have any input? Anyone have...

I'm trying to troubleshoot my electric stabilizer bar, hoping I can get some help. Essentially I added a oem stabar disconnect to my big bend. In the last few months I've been getting a popping sound when turning hard, it wont do it again untill I turn the other way hard (enough for some body...

just toupdate this, turns out It has to do with my swaybar disconnect. I pulled my skid again and the pop was still there. Pulled the electric disconnect and it stopped, put the standard disconnect back on and it was still gone. So somehow my electric disconnect was making the poping sound...

Well, unfortunately I pulled my electric disconnect and no more creak, put the old standard disconnect on and still no creak/pop Looks like the electric disconnect is the culprit- shit

can you explain a little more how it was the links?

As an owner of a company, well said

Yes, I plan to check torque on any front end things I can get at with the wheels off. Then will most likely pull the sta-bar.

I put a OEM disconnect on my big bend. I'm getting some type of pop/creak coming from that area when I get a little bit of body roll. For instance in a turn hard right it will pop. It will not pop again until I turn hard left. Same goes for things like turning into my hilly driveway. This...

Actually, I think you are more correct and I am a little wrong. I believe it was around 3", not 2" that stock UCAs become hit or miss. I can tell you though my alignment is dead on, and looking at the alignment washers, there is not alot left, they are basically almost on the last dash. Im...

With non SaSq- you have some wiggle room with how you lift. You can get by with a 1-2" spacer lift without causing too much excessive droop. General rule i believe is 2" space for non SasQ, 1" w/ Sasq before binding. 2" over sAsq before UCAs are needed. (im at about 1.5" and that's getting close...