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Keep us updated on how the ride is going. How much front/rear lift did you end up with and did you tell accutune any specifics on how high you wanted it/weight of add ons?

Will you be installing yourself? will you be installing them right away? any idea when they will be arriving? Im very close to pulling the trigger on either these or Kings, just hoping to get some more feedback before choosing.

It's 100% doable without removing the bumper. Atleast with the fab fours stubby bumper it is. I can't remember exactly- but I believe i went back to front, but be carefull not to hit anything, theres some wire looms I believe but there not really in the way. Use the right tools- a sawzall with...

Thank god someone said it, I just did probably 150+ chips this past week with Dr color chip. It works phenomenal, and once you get the hang of it it goes very quick. I did 2 coats Clean Clay bar Use rubbing compound to take out clear coat scratches Isopropyl alcohol Dr color chip. Works...

Have you noticed them settling at all? How is the ride compared to the hoss?

Would you be able to measure the thread distance on the front and backs? Basically the amount of thread showing for the preload spacers. I'm looking hard at these vs kings but want pretty minimal lift, 1.5-2" in the front. Having real world numbers would help!

Looks great, love the color combo of CG and black rims. Personally I think 35s look best on 2drs but looks awesome

Just a heads up, removing the bumper is not necessary, at least in my case.... I have a fab fours stubby and was about to remove the crash bars with our removing the bumper.

This is accurate Very much depends on what your definition of "fit" is and how much rub, if any, is allowed. People will say they don't rub, but what does that mean? At 100% full stuff with sway bar disconnected? At ride height? To me me "fit" means full stuff, full turn, and sway bar...

Y'all should do 2mins of googling/searching. All broncos have the wiring. Relatively easy to install OEM aux switches, need the panel, fuse box and harness, all plug and play. Easy install but it looks daunting. Wires are ran for aux switches in everything, but without a new fuse box...

Heck to the no- Just like your GM tailgate comparison- It's just mroe things to break. Regarding the fancy tailgates, all I see is rust issues here in MN after 5-7 years. More importantly-It's still 1/2 down, not all the way, which is my favorite

This is getting pretty OC- Adam- Ford recommends 150k for diff and tranny fluid change- would you wait that long? OP- have you tried replicating that in slippery mode on dry pavement? Have you Tried replicating it in sport mode?

Unfortunately- mine started rusting after 1 winter (5 months) and they refused to do anything about it. "Normal" for MN winters (yet my fab fours FRONT bumper is still in FAR better shape)

Yuppp, agree 100%

So as a side note- I just Effd around in the street. Sport mode- 100% disengages front wheels when turning the wheel- with or without gas Slippery mode- does not 100% disengage, it shows about 50% power to the front tires, but still engaged. My guess is the clutch pack in the xfer case...

You're welcome to believe anything someone tells you. I'm saying that the more you use something, the quicker it is to wear and eventually fail. So why use something when it's 100% not needed, knowing that?

Here's my take. Running 4a when you don't need it will only cause problems in the long term and excessive wear and tear that isn't needed. I've ran sport mode low speed and high speed, switched in and out slow and over 80. Has worked great and smooth. I think everyone should run sport mode...

Do the "stiders" protect from rock chips? If so how much?

Icon tubular ucas $550

Read through everything, great job. Do you know how many rotations you were about to get on your lugs with the 1/4"? Only worry with a small space is less thread locking