As Dusty mentioned, WeatherPack connectors work well for this. Pulling this mount off to access the spare shouldn't add more than two minutes to the whole procedure.
Sucks, but not a deal breaker, so I placed an order for the full kit.
The Baja Designs bracket is huge and unappealing, so I've been waiting for something like this. I currently have a BrandMotion rear camera between the BD lights, but it's all very snug and doesn't allow for any adjustment...
I believe when I did the install they only had the 4-door instructions linked from the product page. Had to search for the 2-door instructions.
I ended up ordering carriage bolts from McMaster-Carr. It's ridiculous that RCI can't source the correct hardware.
Yeah it reads weird, but I think they are referencing the OEM (stock) tune, not the Ford Performance tune.
@Boomba Racing, would mind clarifying this for us?
Guessing that it's because you accidently misstated that the sway bar disconnect is included with the Sasquatch package, when it's actually included only on the Badlands. 🤷♂️
It attaches to the bottom of the winch mount plate, so is technically bumper agnostic. However, it will only work if the bottom of the winch mount plate is unobstructed. As an example, the Rough Country High Mount is not compatible.
Yes, I should have specified "auto" rev match with the tune.
Of course, if you know the vehicle well, you can upshift or downshift without the clutch...just have to be precise.
I have never heard of a manual transmission vehicle that prevents you from applying the brakes and gas at the same time. How else are you supposed to manually rev match when downshifting?
As Brian mentioned, they do have a gear position sensor and even shows the selected gear on the instrument cluster. In addition, if you have the Ford Performance tune, you can enable rev matching on downshifts which works incredibly well.
I've made this point numerous times in these forums, but am always met with crickets. I guess I shouldn't be surprised, but it blows my mind that so few drivers notice the drag.
From what I recall, all 2-door models come with the fuel tank skid plate from the factory. Most of the other skids I have are RCI, but the factory tank skid is solid, so keeping it.
As Mike suggests, for the rears remove the latch from the seat and tuck it under the floor. Simple and effective.
For the belts themselves, you can remove the reels and insert a resistor into the connector. I used a pair of these...uxcell 2.4 Ohm Resistor.
I removed the latch from the seats, plugged them back in, and tucked them under the floor liner. I haven't found a reasonable solution to completely remove them.
I used the resistors when I removed the seatbelt reels and they have been working perfectly ever since.