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What dealer so I know not to go there

No, I was remarking about where that microwave dish was pointing towards. I am familiar with roads on both side, you came up by Ivanhoe Lake. My favorite story from that area https://www.aspentimes.com/news/props-to-prop-finders/

Just noticed you were from Rifle, the other end of the microwave hop from Hagerman I think went to Sunlight in Glenwood.

If it doesn't work for a submarine, I ain't using it.

Is this the flat steel plate like the aftermarket ones N2DZ1A430B - Spare Wheel Retaining Reinforcement (Raptor Series) This makes it the full Raptor equivalent- not adding an aftermarket tailgate reinforcement?

I haven't gotten a great look at all the different options, but it seems like the all could rub paint on the hinges or tailgate? Do they?

I had zero problems getting the shock bolts out with my Milwaukee 2620 impact. The biggest challenge I see with getting them back in torqued is enough clearance to get leverage when the vehicle is on the ground. I was fortunate that I have DIY garage where you can rent garage space in 1 hour...

Probably 2010? I used to work for the State of Colorado and we did a lot of work on that tower, we added the huge ass 10’ dish which was the biggest one I ever did and it had to sit slightly above the tower itself. It was probably spring? Some of the snow had blown away/melted at the top...

Last time I was on Hagerman it was a 10+ and yes I did make it to the top…(there is a radio tower at the top)

I had Line X applied for a variety of reasons, but I am pleased with results. It’s not cheap because they masked the whole vehicle. My coworkers brother owns the shop.

W714040-S300 is the part number Found this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Rexka-Retainers-Wheelhouse-W714040-S300-6509049-AA/dp/B07Y8M5TBC Can't delete a thread, so I figured I might as well answer my own question...

And the corrollary is that I drove 1000 miles to get to Sand Hollow of Moab. I don't know if I like driving that far without a spare..Age old question with no right or wrong answer... Different solutions if you have beadlocks or not... which I do.

I didn't do it at Sand Hollow, but should have, just let most of the air out of the spare so that when you do drop on it, it has a lot of give.

Well this is bursting my bubble… need to save the $5k for stage 3

It was there and they took it off (hence the double stick tape)... under the deflector was that paint chip. You are probably not going to get what you want. How are they supposed to know that the chip didn't happen when the deflector was taken off. You already got taken advantage of by paying...

Can anyone recommend a shop who would quote and install a Stage 3 74Weld rack hopefully including alignment

I should also state, that I have steel shock skids, a steel diff guard and steel sliders (with UHMW) and I plan on steel rear control skids (UHMW). Steel is good, aluminum is good. Don’t write it off because of one review that missed a lot of what goes into it.

What I am saying is that RCI probably didn’t design a skid system specifically out of aluminum that takes advantage of its ability to be formed/bent in structurally stronger shapes than steel. They used the same design as their steel. They also mentioned that a bunch of welds were missing...

My boss has them on his JL, The diff skids started rusting before he went wheeling. In their defense we do live in the Pacific Northwest

Yes, I have used both steel and aluminum skid plate in Montrose, The Rubicon, to Moab. Aluminum skids that are formed with a clean sheet design and not mimicking a steel skid and that are lined with UMHW function better than steel. They deform on a severe hit and tend to bound back, they...