I am referring to the OEM (ford) headliner that comes with many of the Hardtops. HotHeads has a product that adheres to the "plastic / polycarbonate" top using 3M tape OR a product that adheres to the "OEM headliner" using Velcro.
"It’s hard to tell in the pics - what is HHH material made of...
OK, How 'bout the HotHeads Headliner OVER the Factory headliner? Has anyone tried that? In my Wrangler w/o a headliner it made a decent difference; I'd be curious how good it would be in my 24 Raptor (hardtop and headliner).
You WILL have to forscan the chimes. It the only way to fix it. When I get home I'll look for. The forscan settings. Also. Depending on how your amp is integrated you may lose surround.
So that brings up a "basic" math question:
Given the B&O amp produces 110 w/ per channel (under the best of conditions and only on holidays that have a full moon 🌝):
A dvc sub will receive a single 110 watt input to each voice coil,
However bridging the inputs always produced more output...
From Crutchfield:
About the Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx
Product highlights:
4" 2-way speakers (pair)
Plus One+ polypropylene woofer cone with hi-roll rubber surround
1/2" balanced textile dome tweeter
True Four Ohm Impedance technology
speaker's 3-ohm impedance combines with speaker wire...
If those 4032s come COVERED in styrofoam balls, all over everything including the tweeter, don't fret. I used a blow gun on low pressure to blow the speakers clean. Mine were 44.00$ a pair and I figured if I trashed one it was no big deal. I just blew them clean of the Styrofoam, and trimmed...
Infinity 4" speakers will fit in the front corners, center channel & rear pods. You WILL have to trim a set of tabs off. Can be purchased open box on amazon @ 54.00$ a pair.
Amazon.com: Infinity REF-4032CFX Reference 4 Inch Two-Way Car Audio Speakers : Electronics
How is that working out and what sub did you use? The idea of bridging subwoofer channels into one and connecting to the new subwoofer scares the poop out of me. I'm picturing surfing ebay for a new B&O amp :crying: .
thanks
I'd concur. That said, with efficient speakers (infinity 4032 & JBL601CF) the system sounds pretty decent. Clean and enough volume for most listening (probably not 75 on the highway windows down, probably not top off)
Thanks,
The following comes from the belief that EVERYTHING YOU READ ON THE INTERNET IS TRUE :crackup:
I've read the B&O amp is 660 watts 4x110 (dash corners & kicks) and 2x110 (sub). I'd be skeptical of that claim, but it is what it is.
MBQuart makes a drop in sub replacement, some of the...
OK, I believe I answered my own question. According to the picture below, these are the feeds going into the B&O subwoofer.
This to me implies that we want a DVC sub.
I supposed the ends of the Metra Harness could be used for inputs to a LOC or and AMP w/ high level inputs, or just...
OK, does anyone have a picture of the B&O sub (particularly the back) to see if it two sets of inputs or one? Even better (a big ask) has anyone tested this with a multimeter?
I'm trying got get consensus of whether we need DVC 4 ohm or DVC 2 ohm, this is if we are staying with the B&O amp. I...
I believe you'll find the difference is they used COAXIAL speakers in the kick panels. Also "supposedly" all channels are now amplified front corners, CENTER CHANNEL, kick panels, REAR PODS & the sub (Caps = now amped as opposed to 21 - 24).
The steps are a "hair" high. My answer was to solve this by using grab handles and biceps :teehee:.
Personally, I would not want the AMP steps as they do not offer any protection to the rear fender flares, but if you keep it on the road you'll never notice. If you off-road and go the AMP...