Hitch clearance from spare with 285/75/17

[Drjkw]

To add another data point for consideration. Just picked up an adjustable B&W Tow & Stow with up to a 7 inch drop to tow a U-Haul trailer. Setting it at a 6 inch drop meets their ideal hitch height. I’m driving a 23 Bronco Raptor with factory specs - no additional lift, 37 in KO2s, etc.

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[Mpatient1]

upgrading to the heritage wheels tires I couldn't fit my trailers coupler w/latch under the tire anymore, so I switched out to a no latch version.

URT 25470 QuickPin No-Latch Trailer Coupler

 

[JDC129]

My spare is a 285/75/17 and I have the Blue Ox hitch receiver installed. I don't have any issues at all with my trailers, bike rack or cargo rack. No extension needed with any of them.

Man i wish i had known about this hitch. Would have ordered mine without one and had this added if I did. That's really cool!

 

[JDC129]

On my '22 Black Diamond non-sas (265/70-17), I use a 4" drop receiver tube for my Thule Bicycle rack. The tailgate will open with the bicycle rack tilted down (no bicycles of course) and the rack folds up behind the tire. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/CURT/C59KR.html It extends the receiver pin/tube face 8" which works nicely with the rack folding. I plan on replacing the 265 tires with 285 tires when they wear out and I don't think there will be a problem with the bicycle rack since the 285 tires are only extend ~10mm farther back and ~12mm farther down.

Thank you! This is exactly what I am looking for. That's perfect

 

[Crunk]

pgrading to the heritage wheels tires I couldn't fit my trailers coupler w/latch under the tire anymore, so I switched out to a no latch ver

This genuinely seems like a genius solution. The latch is what catches the tire. I'm going to try to find a replacement for my camper because that would be absolutely huge and not require extenders or extra long shanks which are less safe.

 

[Tonka Bronka]

Drop hitch is the answer. I have a 2.5” drop that worked fine with stock carrier and 35x12.5 tires

(i have an adjustable carrier now but the 2.5” drop is still perfect for 38” tire where i have it set)

Works as long as you are pulling a low trailer. For mine, I need a 6" rise and that's the problem.

 

[Brian_B]

Works as long as you are pulling a low trailer. For mine, I need a 6" rise and that's the problem.

The sell channel couplers for trailers to adjust that end too. May require some welding on the tongue though

 

[HoosierDaddy]

While i have a extension you shouldn’t need it with a 2-4” drop hitch.

The extension is fine for back racks, etc.
The boat I tow is 3000lb, I would not be keen on using an extension for that use.
But that's just my uninformed opinion.

Drop hitch is the answer. I have a 2.5” drop that worked fine with stock carrier and 35x12.5 tires

(i have an adjustable carrier now but the 2.5” drop is still perfect for 38” tire where i have it set)

I use a small drop hitch as well, (3" ?) but as somebody noted, with a low trailer, I am just a breath away from not having enough drop on the trailer jack to get the jack rotated back up for travel.

The irony is, when the 35's are on, that issue kind of goes away for the jack height, but now I need more drop to get the trailer lock to clear the taller spare ... so I'm back where I started. LOL!

So the ideal solution is figuring out which drop/rise you need for proper level towing and then figure out how much you need to raise the spare carrier so the trailer lock will open when you are tryin to hitch up.

 

[HBTFD 2.0]

Tractor supply sells

a 6” drop hitch that is longer than most. Works great.

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