[How-To] FORScan Audio/Speaker Mods

[JAKExBAKE]

Please help!! I have the b&O and want to put focal speakers all around. 6.5” in the back pods and have the focal 100AC in the front dash and the 6.5 again in the kickers. How can I get the max sound out of my speakers all around? Please please help!!

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[23OBX2.7]

Please help!! I have the b&O and want to put focal speakers all around. 6.5” in the back pods and have the focal 100AC in the front dash and the 6.5 again in the kickers. How can I get the max sound out of my speakers all around? Please please help!!

Only way is to buy 3ohm speakers or spend $4K on upgrade to DSP amp and mono block.

 

[JAKExBAKE]

Only way is to buy 3ohm speakers or spend $4K on upgrade to DSP amp and mono block.

Also with an 8” kicker sub should I run another amp? If so, where do I run it to and does it need power from the battery? I got the Kicker 48CWRT84

 

[23OBX2.7]

Also with an 8” kicker sub should I run another amp? If so, where do I run it to and does it need power from the battery? I got the Kicker 48CWRT84

Just use that kicker as is, but do three layers of Amazon Basics sound deadener on the enclosure, and give new sub about 20 hrs use break in time.

Im surprised how well my cheap MB Quart 4+4 sub is doing.

If your sub is out now or soon can you please fill empty enclosure with water and tell us how much went in? Need to cap the port with masking tape first.

 

[Astronaut]

I just replaced the crappy OEM speakers that look like there were made out of coffee filter cones in the dash and rear pods with Alpine Coaxial S2-S40's. Just the easy replacement alone sounded better in my 2-door. Big Thanks to @RagnarKon for providing the ACM parameters to disable the fake bad ass engine exhaust sounds, and changing all speakers to Speaker & Tweeter and the rear driver to Speaker & Tweeter & Sub. OMG...I am no longer embarrassed to listen to music...LOL. It now sounds almost as good as the 11-speaker audio in my RAM pickup and I can enjoy listening to music again! Also, with the stupid fake exhaust disabled, I can't believe how much quieter my 2-door is. Thanks to Santa for the speakers. And once again, Thank You @RagnarKon for the ACM hack!!

The crappy OEM speakers made with coffee filter cones LOL...

The new coaxial speakers...

 

[23OBX2.7]

It's interesting you replaces rear woofers mid range with coax they probably beam off windshield nicely avoiding too harsh sound and /or the forcan assisted as well.

 

[Astronaut]

It's interesting you replaces rear woofers mid range with coax they probably beam off windshield nicely avoiding too harsh sound and /or the forcan assisted as well.

After the ACM changes, the tone controls were all set by default to the center half way point. I changed mine to these settings.
Treble - Default Midway
Midrange - Max
Bass - Two steps up from Default

 

[justin7894]

Can someone confirm which of these forscan settings are applicable and beneficial to a full B&O replacement with aftermarket amps, amppro interface, upgrade to 6.5 pods and factory sub replacement?

There’s so much old and mixed info it’s difficult to parse out

 

[maus92]

The B&O system in the 2025 Bronco is different than earlier model years. Apparently it uses components from an F-150 B&O system that delivers more power than the pre-2025 Bronco B&O systems. I owned a 2024 Big Bend w/ the B&O system, and the improvement in the 2025 B&O system is noticeable. I am on the fence about making any major changes to the B&O system installed in my 2025 Outer Banks, except for speaker upgrades and perhaps a sub upgrade.

 

[omg_bbq]

@ILoveToDrive asked a really good question in another thread that I should have answered in the video, but I didn’t.

So to preemptively answer the question for others… very rough definition of Speaker vs. Tweeter vs. Speaker/Tweeter:

• Tweeter - 4” and smaller
• Speaker - 5-1/4” and larger mid-range speaker
• Speaker/Tweeter - A speaker and a tweeter sharing the same channel. OR a coaxial speaker with a wide frequency response.

Maybe already posted but this thread is vv long. Taking all other factors out. I have upgraded my dash speakers from the stock 4 inch to 4inch with a built in tweeter, Infinity or something. It was early in the days of bronco speaker modding. My question is does a 4" inch speaker with the tweeter in the middle count as a Tweeter or Speaker/Tweeter when doing the config in forscan. I understand for the 6.5 in the rear that have a coax tweeter you'd do Speaker/Tweeter.

 

[RagnarKon]

Maybe already posted but this thread is vv long. Taking all other factors out. I have upgraded my dash speakers from the stock 4 inch to 4inch with a built in tweeter, Infinity or something. It was early in the days of bronco speaker modding. My question is does a 4" inch speaker with the tweeter in the middle count as a Tweeter or Speaker/Tweeter when doing the config in forscan. I understand for the 6.5 in the rear that have a coax tweeter you'd do Speaker/Tweeter.

Speaker/Tweeter. The front kick panels share a channel with the front dash speakers.

 

[jim4039]

First off, thank you to Ragnarkon and to all on this forum. It is hugely helpful. I am a newbie in the process of a full system upgrade and have a few questions.

My vehicle is a 2024 Big Bend, Non-B&O Bronco with the factory sub. So far, I have installed the following:

• Dash 4” Kicker KS series with base blockers
• Kickpanel 6.5” Kicker KS series
• Rollbar Kicker 4” Kicker KS series
• All of the above are controlled by a kicker 200.4 key amp
• Kicker powered 12” hideaway sub laying in the cargo area, connected via a Molex connector to the T harness, rather than splicing off of the kick panel speakers
• Pre-existing factory amp and sub, although the sub is blown and has a terrible rattle

As an aside, I chose not to upgrade the pods to 6.5” since I knew I was adding a separate powered sub and the pod upgrade was not cheap.

FORscan mod to turn EQ off is complete. Key Amp tuning also complete.

My questions surround what to do with the factory sub and amp. Since the speaker itself has a horrible rattle, is it worth replacing it, but keeping the factory amp for added base, or do I just disconnect the speaker connector and forget about it? The speaker I have my eye on is the 6.75” 4 ohm Kicker 48CWRT674. At around $100, I’d be willing to replace it if it would add anything to the soundstage. Looks like a fairly easy replacement, not requiring a dedicated power wire. Or is it at all possible to put a different full range speaker in its place, powered by the factory amp? Just seems silly to waste the enclosure and the amp if it can be put to any use.

Thank you in advance.

 

[HPNQ420]

<SNIP>

My questions surround what to do with the factory sub and amp. Since the speaker itself has a horrible rattle, is it worth replacing it, but keeping the factory amp for added base, or do I just disconnect the speaker connector and forget about it? The speaker I have my eye on is the 6.75” 4 ohm Kicker 48CWRT674. At around $100, I’d be willing to replace it if it would add anything to the soundstage. Looks like a fairly easy replacement, not requiring a dedicated power wire. Or is it at all possible to put a different full range speaker in its place, powered by the factory amp? Just seems silly to waste the enclosure and the amp if it can be put to any use.

Thank you in advance.

It wouldn't hurt, but...

I think you would have better results for nothing but labor and a few feet of good quality wire by running the rear pods off the factory amp, and using the Key to power the kick panel and dash speakers separately.

 

[jim4039]

Thank you for the advice. That makes sense. I’ll probably do that in the next iteration of this project. Now that the car is all put back together, i just can’t see ripping all of that front trim out again to run separate wire to the kick panels and then trying to get to the rear pods.

I just ended up going the lazy route and buying the 4 ohm 6.75” kicker sub and put it in the old sub’s place. The old speaker ended up having a huge tear in it that was the cause of my rattle.

The kicker dropped right in after i trimmed that one little plastic prong with a utility knife. Then just cut the ends off the ford connector, trimmed the wire, and screwed the speaker in with 1.25” drywall screws. Couldn’t be easier. By itself, without the hideaway sub, it sounds meh - better than stock, but meh.

Does it add anything to the soundstage in my car? Probably not. Did i waste $100? Maybe, but i feel better about not wasting a factory amp and enclosure. I did go the lazy route, but i did also killmat the back while i had it apart this time.

In any event, appreciate the advice. For around $1500 and a cumulative day of work, it sounds waaaayyy better than stock now. Almost as important, i learned a ton and i probably saved $1500-$2k+ in labor. For anyone thinking of tackling this, it’s pretty easy if you can turn a wrench and you follow the advice on these forums. Buying a drop in setup from trailseven (or plugnplay) also made this much, much, much easier. I can’t recommend trailseven enough - great product and great support. Oh, and i learned how to use forscan. All in all, totally worth it.

Thanks again to everyone on this forum.

Jim

 

[Skold]

I'm starting to think that on a 2025+ base sound system, it's just not worth spending money on a Kicker Key 200.4 (plus wiring harness), Alpine S2s all the way around, including 6.5s in pods, and a powered sub. It sounds like the acoustics and road noise will make any improvements over the stock setup marginal at best. Am I wrong for thinking this?

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