Thoughts on Body Lifts with the broncos IFS

[Heath Aggen]

What diameter puck is being used? The guy on YouTube use 3" diameter pucks and that seemed large. I was thinking 2 1/2" diameter puck with 1/2"

Sponsored

 

[Dream_Solventless]

What diameter puck is being used? The guy on YouTube use 3" diameter pucks and that seemed large. I was thinking 2 1/2" diameter puck with 1/2"

2.5" is pretty much the same size diameter as the rubber bushing that's in there

 

[Njchris1968]

Body lift on a manual has anyone done one. How bad is it. I would think the shifter would need to be extended. I hear people doing 3 I. Body lifts and not changing anything just think that would mess up bumper and shifter and wiring and hoses. Things seem a bit tight already. Who has done the body lift?

 

[Bmadda]

Body lift on a manual has anyone done one. How bad is it. I would think the shifter would need to be extended. I hear people doing 3 I. Body lifts and not changing anything just think that would mess up bumper and shifter and wiring and hoses. Things seem a bit tight already. Who has done the body lift?

Mine is an MT and I had ZERO issues. Shifter on these is by cables, and they have WAY plenty of slack. Mine is 2", but 3" woulda been no problem, just makes the bumper gap a little big!

 

[Njchris1968]

Thanks
Good to know I made a few kits for people but have yet to do mine. Was not sure just have not really have time to dive into it.

 

[Binky]

2.5" diameter with a 1/2" hole is what you want. The 1/2" hole may need to be opened up slightly for the six 13mm bolts. Block height is up to your personal preference.

I removed one of my 13mm bolts and found that at initial thread engagement there is 1.175" of distance between the washer and stop on the body mount. The first .375" of threads of the bolt are tapered slightly for easy of engagement at the factory. That leaves 0.8" to engage in the threads of the body nut. That said, I wouldn't trust the stock bolts to work with more than a 1/2" block lift.

I looked through this thread and couldn't find a link to the body blocks so hopefully the following links will save someone some time:

https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/shopbodyblocksandbumpstops/25-diameter-body-blocksolid-uhmw-pe

https://www.ebay.com/itm/333121395772?hash=item4d8f951c3c:g:GowAAOSwI8Rj00ZL&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoHUCK6ePyfuynUK30Cvr9td9/lP9Mqah0BHHNP20c2t6K46rXfpgtMP4tqb/tsP7WXgfVpRFQuS+jUF0ti2xHz8swuHO1Yo1eVHmaWVf6ifpqccMXW6XPWhBQebBKjU06C7Yyqg31aW4G4l67qvXcDub6BnPN3xPjw2Ucrm5Eoy5+yeBezo7QOJDiu7JP9CVj/T+62RoXRkxUTtKRgjkFb4=|tkp:Bk9SR5KLmfbNYQ

The eBay link may not last for long, but the link above that is their website.

The six rear Bronco body bolts are M13 x 1.75 x 134mm long

Ranger uses M13 x 1.75 x 192mm long (part number KB3Z-26001B39-B) which should be good for a 1" to 2.5" lift as long as you remove (with force) and reuse the original bronco washer.

The two front bolts are M12 x 1.75 and easier to find locally BUT for those in Northern or coastal states, consider finding zinc, galvanized or zinc passivated bolts for corrosion resistance and longevity.

M13 body mount bolt torque is 78 ft-lbs

 

[Blackandblue]

Ranger uses M13 x 1.75 x 192mm long (part number KB3Z-26001B39-B) which should be good for a 1" to 2.5" lift as long as you remove (with force) and reuse the original bronco washer.

Have you measured the treaded portion of that bolt? I’m not sure it would work for a 1” lift before it used up the threads and it looks like a rolled thread so using a die to extend the threaded portion lower isn’t an option. Just curious since I’m likely going with a 1”.

 

[Bird Dog Off Road]

Sooooo, Bronc Buster has body contoured filler pieces for sale now for both their 1.5 and 3" kits. I'm gonna try these with their 1.5 kit. I'll be sure and share once they arrive. They are doing pre-orders now, but anticipate shipping them later in March.

Worse case scenario, if I don't like them, I'll switch back to my DIY 0.5" currently installed.

 

[NJNMDoc]

Sooooo, Bronc Buster has body contoured filler pieces for sale now for both their 1.5 and 3" kits. I'm gonna try these with their 1.5 kit. I'll be sure and share once they arrive. They are doing pre-orders now, but anticipate shipping them later in March.

Worse case scenario, if I don't like them, I'll switch back to my DIY 0.5" currently installed.

I have seen some fairly detailed pics... not sure if they were intended to share so I will wait to see what is posted publicly.

However, what I saw looked very very nice and I am about 'this-close' to pulling the trigger on the whole setup. I mean what I saw looked BADASS! But I haven't seen the kit in person so I will anxiously await the first user reviews... The lights looked very functional as well (a fantastic use of the space- very smart). I will be interested to see how well people feel the whole look ties together.

Personally, I have narrowed it down to the Broncbuster 3" lift with gap fillers and lights vs. RPG 2.25/1.5 (or possibly 3.0/2.25) perch collars.

I want to run 37's and preserve the geometry of the HOSS 3.0 but it's gotta look really great or else I will consider taking a slight hit to ride quality (RPG- and I think it will be very very slight with no additional mods and far less expensive).

 

[Binky]

Have you measured the treaded portion of that bolt? I’m not sure it would work for a 1” lift before it used up the threads and it looks like a rolled thread so using a die to extend the threaded portion lower isn’t an option. Just curious since I’m likely going with a 1”.

I have not BUT you could purchase a M13 x 1.75 die and cut more threads if needed.

I also found a longer bolt from an outfit down in Australia but they have not sent me specs back on the bolt yet.

 

[V1Rotate]

I just did a 3/4” body lift to compliment my 2” Zone lift and used Mikellisbodylifts.com for the pucks. 3” diameter by 3/4” (or whatever height you want) and a 1/2” hole. They fit perfectly. I ordered replacement front bolts 150mm M12x1.75 from fastenal and picked up locally for $4.97 (the warehouse guy gave me their cost when I picked them up), all 6 rear bolts are plenty long to add up to an inch at least. Pucks cost me $35 shipped And got here in about a week. The stock front bolts IMO aren’t long enough to add any sort of lift to.. just won’t get a ton of thread engagement and they’re too cheap to mess with not doing it. One more tip would be to use a bottle or scissor jack that lifts the body straight up off the frame as when using a floor jack it pulls the body ever so slightly out of alignment as it rises and makes it hard to get the bolts started. The whole thing took me about an hour and $39. Here’s the link to the front bolts https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/0122038

 

[KompressorV12]

Sooooo, Bronc Buster has body contoured filler pieces for sale now for both their 1.5 and 3" kits. I'm gonna try these with their 1.5 kit. I'll be sure and share once they arrive. They are doing pre-orders now, but anticipate shipping them later in March.

Worse case scenario, if I don't like them, I'll switch back to my DIY 0.5" currently installed.

Can you link them? I'd like more pics.

 

[Bird Dog Off Road]

Can you link them? I'd like more pics.

It's on their website. The pics aren't the best though.

https://broncbustertx.com/products/3-body-lift-trim-back

 

[V1Rotate]

Sooooo, Bronc Buster has body contoured filler pieces for sale now for both their 1.5 and 3" kits. I'm gonna try these with their 1.5 kit. I'll be sure and share once they arrive. They are doing pre-orders now, but anticipate shipping them later in March.

Worse case scenario, if I don't like them, I'll switch back to my DIY 0.5" currently installed.

To me the gap filling trim piece looks awkward and out of place. For mine I’d either go a full 3” and relocate bumpers OR leave it to something under an inch DIY and not really notice the increased gap. I took the latter

 

[Bird Dog Off Road]

To me the gap filling trim piece looks awkward and out of place. For mine I’d either go a full 3” and relocate bumpers OR leave it to something under an inch DIY and not really notice the increased gap. I took the latter

I think the photo with the non-modular bumper looks weird because that bumper is not flat across the top like the modular and most aftermarkets are. We'll see how they look with a JCR front bumper and a Winch soon enough. The only problem with relocating the bumpers in my case is the ACC is not compatible in it's current location. I tried one of the relocation brackets behind the grill and it wasn't good.

Like I said, I can always revert back to 0.5" if I'm not happy with it.

Sponsored