New amp and sub install- does this sound correct?

[94GT]

Hi All,

So the last time I did anything car audio was probably back in 2001, and had swapped the head unit out for an aftermarket which gave me all the outputs I needed for the system, prior to that I had a 1995 Ford Ranger that I used to compete with (had almost $15K in audio equipment) and did the install entirely myself, because again it was a non-factory head unit. So fast forward 30 years and everything has changed, and I have not kept up with anything in that world, so now I am well behind on it.

Here is my plan for what I am installing, and want to keep this as simple as possible. For reference I have also already installed the JBL Soundbar in place of the rear speakers and updated them with Forscan.

Rockford Fosgate Punch P1 P1-2X12 Dual 12" Loaded Subwoofer Box
RS2-500X1 mono amp.

Wiring- 4 gauge from amp to battery with 80amp fuse.

This is where I have some questions:
The amp also has high level inputs from the speaker wires as well as remote turn on from signal, so it doesn't appear that I need a line out converter.

Now when looking at the ForScan outputs for the rear speakers, only the drivers side has the sub low pass enabled (that is a full range output), on the amp there are left/right speaker inputs, but since only the driver rear output from the head unit is actually sending the signal that that subs will use, is it ok to wire both left and right input on the amp to the same output, or just use one input on it? Alternatively is there a way in ForScan to give a full pass to both rear speakers?

Any and all input is welcome--thanks in advance!

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[23OBX2.7]

What system do you have?

 

[94GT]

What system do you have?

7 speaker non-B&O

 

[Kestrel]

Apologies I don't have helpful info for you, but may I ask how you like the JBL sound bar? My new '26 is also non-b&o and I am desperate to upgrade from factory so I'm looking at options.

 

[Area51BS]

I would tie into front kick panel left and right.

 

[94GT]

Apologies I don't have helpful info for you, but may I ask how you like the JBL sound bar? My new '26 is also non-b&o and I am desperate to upgrade from factory so I'm looking at options.

I will say it is "Ok" not amazing but it is an upgrade over the 2 pod speakers that are included. I only got it because I found it dirt dirt cheap ($170 new including shipping)> If I would have paid what Ford was asking for this installed as a dealer option I would say it falls far short of the price point they were asking. As everyone else says about them, it does block your rear view mirror but with a back up camera and side mirrors that's not a huge deal for me. Installation is pretty simple and the ForScan updates for it are pretty straight forward.

Bottom line on it, would I spend Ford installed money on it, nope, I would go with a set of pods with a decent speaker, would I buy it again for the price I paid for it and be happy? Yep

 

[94GT]

I would tie into front kick panel left and right.

Are you saying that because there is no high pass filter on the front speakers? I'm not against using these but when I look at the ForScan, and look at the signal options that are going to each speaker, only the rear driver is receiving the sub bandwidth-
Speaker Configuration Settings - ACM 727-01-01

• xxYx-xxxx-xxxx - Driver Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker (ACM disable)
• xxxY-xxxx-xxxx - Passenger Front Kick Panel/Dash Speakers
  • 3 - Speaker
  • 7 - Tweeter
  • B - Speaker & Tweeter
  • F - No Speaker
• xxxx-Yxxx-xxxx - Passenger Rear Pod Speaker
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 1 - Tweeter
  • 2 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • 3 - No Speaker
• xxxx-xYxx-xxxx - Driver Rear Pod Speaker & Subwoofer
  • 0 - Speaker
  • 2 - Speaker & Sub
  • 4 - Tweeter
  • 6 - Tweeter & Sub
  • 8 - Speaker & Tweeter
  • A - Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
  • C - No speaker
  • E - Sub only

If the setting of "Speaker & Tweeter" is a full pass signal then it makes sense to use them.
Thanks for your input, I am trying to learn as much about the audio system before I tear into anything so I know what to expect.

 

[Brian_B]

The setting in Forscan on the rear pod just enables the discrete subwoofer output. It would be it’s own two channels going to/from the sub amplifier located in the passenger rear cargo panel. It doesn’t really have anything to do with the rear speaker.

MY21-24 that signal going back is standard analog and you could pick it up pre or post amp, and the remote turn on was 0-5V (many amps could use that unmodified, some needed to relay isolate it up to 12v)

MY25+ changed that analog sub amp to a digital A2B amp. You either need a compatible A2B converter (they are starting to come out), pick up the output of the sub amp on the high level (and make sure your amp can handle the higher power on a high level input), or pick up your signals from another pair of speaker channels (kicks are popular)

 

[94GT]

The setting in Forscan on the rear pod just enables the discrete subwoofer output. It would be it’s own two channels going to/from the sub amplifier located in the passenger rear cargo panel. It doesn’t really have anything to do with the rear speaker.

MY21-24 that signal going back is standard analog and you could pick it up pre or post amp, and the remote turn on was 0-5V (many amps could use that unmodified, some needed to relay isolate it up to 12v)

MY25+ changed that analog sub amp to a digital A2B amp. You either need a compatible A2B converter (they are starting to come out), pick up the output of the sub amp on the high level (and make sure your amp can handle the higher power on a high level input), or pick up your signals from another pair of speaker channels (kicks are popular)

Thank you for the explanation, and it makes more sense now as to why to use the fronts. On that same topic though, since I have upgraded the rears to the JBL sound bar and they are now getting a full sound range would that be the same as the front kicker speakers now?
The rear channels are set to
Drivers side Speaker, Tweeter, & Sub
Passenger side Speaker & Tweeter
High pass disabled on the rear channels

I know the amp can take speaker level inputs (and use them also as a remote wire), but I didn't see how many watts it can handle for input, I am leaning heavily towards the Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1, which has high level inputs.
Other options I have looked at are a Kicker passive low level converter that can take 55 watts per channel and also provides a 12v remote out, as well as an Audio Control LC2i that can handle 400 watts of input as well as providing a 12v remote, but that would also require a 12V and Remote in The 12v isn't a problem since I will be running 4 gauge from the battery and can add a distribution block for the 12v constant, I just don't want to have to pull panels and dig around for a remote turn on wire.

 

[Brian_B]

On that same topic though, since I have upgraded the rears to the JBL sound bar and they are now getting a full sound range would that be the same as the front kicker speakers now?

Yes.

Most folks just use the kick panel wiring because it is the easiest to get at and route back to the sub area (via the door sills)

 

[Brian_B]

Also many line converters and high level input amps will support a line signal
activation, which would not require a separate turn on signal - so check your documentation for your equipment to see if you need the dedicated turn on signal or not

 

[94GT]

Yes.

Most folks just use the kick panel wiring because it is the easiest to get at and route back to the sub area (via the door sills)

Gotcha.
Since the sound bar has excessive speaker wire I am thinking that I can tap right into that, and run it to the trim panel and then down to the amp which will be mounted right below the sound bar. Since I will already have the back driver trim panel off to get to a ground spot, I can run it across the top of the sound bar and then behind that panel with minimal effort. Pic snapped from an install video, not my Bronco, but the wires are the same.

Also many line converters and high level input amps will support a line signal
activation, which would not require a separate turn on signal - so check your documentation for your equipment to see if you need the dedicated turn on signal or not

I did reach out to Rockford and they confirmed their high level input would work with the factory head unit and would also enable the remote turn on.

Thanks again for all your help! It gives me greater confidence I can do it without too much issue.

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