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Obeh4ve

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Seeing an IAT drop of Xº is nice but it is also a measurement in isolation. You really want to see ambient, pre IC, post IC and IAT. Same day, same ambient temps, same humidity but one run facing head winds vs another run with tail winds will skew your data. Regarding the oft asked heat soak question; that's almost meaningless when looking at 20 - 80MPH runs. Any IC worth beans is rapidly dumping heat at 20MPH. Like Squatch said you need to flog it hard to really heat soak the IC. Or sit in traffic on a hot day. You'll get enough heat soak for sure. Ideally you want identical conditions for every test. Also keep in mind, a larger IC has more thermal mass so when it is soaked it'll take longer to cool than a smaller, similarly designed IC. You can't make the blanket statement that larger is better. You also need to include charge velocity. Poor charge velocity definitely shows up in off idle conditions. For me average temp drop across the IC core trending upwards is good. An improved design can be as effective as or more so than just Bigger. I don't and never will rock crawl but that looks to be pretty darned close to "stuck in traffic" regarding air flow. A bigger IC isn't going to help much if at all under those conditions. I"m guessing. My 2¢
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Tricky Mike

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All this time I assumed @Squatch had a Sasquatch. It's, like, his identity and everything. My world is shattered.

because most, if not all, intercoolers require those active grille shutters to be removed
I've painted myself into a corner as my winch occupies the space where the shutters used to be so it looks like this one won't work for me. I hurt my IC in the dunes and I feel like I might be a little down on power, if I'm shelling out the cash I didn't want to have to replace it with another stock IC.
 
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Seeing an IAT drop of Xº is nice but it is also a measurement in isolation. You really want to see ambient, pre IC, post IC and IAT. Same day, same ambient temps, same humidity but one run facing head winds vs another run with tail winds will skew your data. Regarding the oft asked heat soak question; that's almost meaningless when looking at 20 - 80MPH runs. Any IC worth beans is rapidly dumping heat at 20MPH. Like Squatch said you need to flog it hard to really heat soak the IC. Or sit in traffic on a hot day. You'll get enough heat soak for sure. Ideally you want identical conditions for every test. Also keep in mind, a larger IC has more thermal mass so when it is soaked it'll take longer to cool than a smaller, similarly designed IC. You can't make the blanket statement that larger is better. You also need to include charge velocity. Poor charge velocity definitely shows up in off idle conditions. For me average temp drop across the IC core trending upwards is good. An improved design can be as effective as or more so than just Bigger. I don't and never will rock crawl but that looks to be pretty darned close to "stuck in traffic" regarding air flow. A bigger IC isn't going to help much if at all under those conditions. I"m guessing. My 2¢
To speak to some of that, I took data for ambient temp and humidity among other things. There is a ton of data. I made every effort to make the runs under similar conditions and as many runs in one direction as the opposite direction to mitigate the possibility of headwind/tailwind interference. I never logged data in my commuting (1+ hr each way), but I never noticed any issues stock--nobody should with a modern vehicle. I did have my air-cooled Harley overheat in the DC area traffic, though, and that was terrific!

Improved design? No replacement for displacement, haha. We're just comparing apples to apples and the bigger apple makes more juice.

All this time I assumed @Squatch had a Sasquatch. It's, like, his identity and everything. My world is shattered.
It all started when they offered and then took away ManSquatch... then, I just couldn't wait for BigDealer to stop hating on Granger and bought a lot lizard.... wait, I'm getting word that lot lizard is not the correct term. ;)
 

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To speak to some of that, I took data for ambient temp and humidity among other things. There is a ton of data. I made every effort to make the runs under similar conditions and as many runs in one direction as the opposite direction to mitigate the possibility of headwind/tailwind interference. I never logged data in my commuting (1+ hr each way), but I never noticed any issues stock--nobody should with a modern vehicle. I did have my air-cooled Harley overheat in the DC area traffic, though, and that was terrific!

Improved design? No replacement for displacement, haha. We're just comparing apples to apples and the bigger apple makes more juice.



It all started when they offered and then took away ManSquatch... then, I just couldn't wait for BigDealer to stop hating on Granger and bought a lot lizard.... wait, I'm getting word that lot lizard is not the correct term. ;)
Thanks much for the additional info. Now I'm off to read your CVF Hot and Cold pipes post. The pipes and IC I'm thinking will be very helpful added to the Ford Performance tune. The bump in boost will definitely be helped with the mods you have. I'm new to the community and many folks here are very helpful.
 

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Nice write-up. I plan to get an intercooler soon. I am waiting to see what the Injen intercooler looks like, it should be released Q1 of this year. I have the charge pipes on there way, so I am excited to see how that helps with performance.

@Squatch did you install the CV charge pipes yet? Also, I see you are in Miami. Are you part of Miami Dade Bronco group?
 

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Nice write-up. I plan to get an intercooler soon. I am waiting to see what the Injen intercooler looks like, it should be released Q1 of this year. I have the charge pipes on there way, so I am excited to see how that helps with performance.

@Squatch did you install the CV charge pipes yet? Also, I see you are in Miami. Are you part of Miami Dade Bronco group?
Thank you.

I did install the charge pipes and put up a thread here.

I am not a part of that group, but I only keep about 1.5 friends here.
 

KreeHBronco

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So, I am not sure if I can comment yet on the pipes, but they go whoosh! when you get after it like a good intake with a long pipe would on a Mustang or other vehicle if you know that sound.

The ones I have are nice and hook up to the stock location and I checked for leaks with stock and CVF intercoolers which was a pain only due to my preference of the RC hidden winch being tucked down there too and it's already installed.

The best upgrade order, in my opinion, would be the intercooler and hot&cold charge pipes before a hidden winch or perhaps even before an aftermarket bumper because most, if not all, intercoolers require those active grille shutters to be removed and that's a complication of Ford's design but not a dream-killer. Mishimoto's high mount looks cool but that install looks like a daunting endeavor and you have to get their pipes.

I did this on a flat, hard surface with my trusty cardboard creeper without jacking up the Bronco--a stock Badlands on 33s. That type of upgrade is my jam and I feel comfortable recommending it to others.
Also chiming in to thank you! This really helps!!

I received my 2026 4-dr Badlands w/2.3L & manual a few weeks ago and I have been busy installing aftermarket mods (steps, seat covers, shift knob, mud flaps, tailgate bench, storage area shelf, hydraulic hood lifts, ... small stuff).

One big mod that I am dreading is my Lobo hidden winch with a Warn Platinum (uses a remote control). Because of the proximity of the winch install and the intercooler, I have been trying to decide if I should go ahead and upgrade the intercooler before I install the hidden winch with a big worry that an upgraded/larger intercooler might result in the winch not fitting (I am hoping I don't have to relocated the winch control/electric). Because I live in California, the only two compliant intercoolers that I know are the Cobb and Whipple. Cobb allows the stock front shutter system to remain operational, while the Whipple removes it, but keeps the shutter control box connected so the vehicle's CPU think's its OK.

Do I really need an upgraded intercooler, probably not, but do I want an upgraded intercooler ... :)
 
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Also chiming in to thank you! This really helps!!
You're welcome.

One big mod that I am dreading is my Lobo hidden winch with a Warn Platinum (uses a remote control). Because of the proximity of the winch install and the intercooler, I have been trying to decide if I should go ahead and upgrade the intercooler before I install the hidden winch with a big worry that an upgraded/larger intercooler might result in the winch not fitting (I am hoping I don't have to relocated the winch control/electric).
For larger intercoolers to fit, you cut the frame locators. If the winch mount was supposed to fit a stock Bronco, then it should work with a Bronco with a larger intercooler.

Some people have put stuff in between the frame locators and then switched to a larger intercooler and that's where they made problems for themselves.

Because I live in California, the only two compliant intercoolers that I know are the Cobb and Whipple.
Uhh... what? It doesn't affect nor remove any sensors. Mine passed CA smog.

Cobb allows the stock front shutter system to remain operational, while the Whipple removes it, but keeps the shutter control box connected so the vehicle's CPU think's its OK.
You just unplug the shutters and the computer is fine, no tricks needed.
 

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You're welcome.

For larger intercoolers to fit, you cut the frame locators. If the winch mount was supposed to fit a stock Bronco, then it should work with a Bronco with a larger intercooler.

Some people have put stuff in between the frame locators and then switched to a larger intercooler and that's where they made problems for themselves.

Uhh... what? It doesn't affect nor remove any sensors. Mine passed CA smog.

You just unplug the shutters and the computer is fine, no tricks needed.
Thank you the prompt, informative response!

For Calif, if an custom intercooler doesn't meet the state's CARB requirements and it's flagged in a smog check (visual inspection), it's my understanding that you fail and have to "fix it" before you can get your registration. To fix, you have to return to stock or put in a CARB compliant intercooler. I am glad you passed your CA smog! I tend to have terrible luck and I would get the super detailed smog person.
 

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For Calif, if an custom intercooler doesn't meet the state's CARB requirements and it's flagged in a smog check (visual inspection),
Really does depend on who does the smog check.

I've had a lot of people tell me catch cans won't pass, but there is a specific exemption for them in the law. But not every smog guy knows that... and I have never had a lot of luck trying to argue with one (without also having either a case of beer or a high dollar bill in my hand).

Last time I went in (wasn't my Bronco, it isn't due for smog for a few years yet, was an older Ranger) - they flagged my vacuum lines. I used blue rubber (not any specific reason, just that's what they had at Napa that day)... they charged me $75 to replace them with... black rubber.

Technically Intercoolers are not specifically part of the Smog check, but the guidelines do say "Parts like Superchargers, Turbochargers, wastegate etc ... but not limited to" ... so again, really depends on who is looking and what they think.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/smog-check-manual.pdf

(The catch can exemption is on Pg. 40, if you wanna sea lawyer with your inspector - Oil Separator/Filter - Crankcase gas filter is listed as explicitly not required for visual inspection)
 

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Really does depend on who does the smog check.

I've had a lot of people tell me catch cans won't pass, but there is a specific exemption for them in the law. But not every smog guy knows that... and I have never had a lot of luck trying to argue with one (without also having either a case of beer or a high dollar bill in my hand).

Last time I went in (wasn't my Bronco, it isn't due for smog for a few years yet, was an older Ranger) - they flagged my vacuum lines. I used blue rubber (not any specific reason, just that's what they had at Napa that day)... they charged me $75 to replace them with... black rubber.

Technically Intercoolers are not specifically part of the Smog check, but the guidelines do say "Parts like Superchargers, Turbochargers, wastegate etc ... but not limited to" ... so again, really depends on who is looking and what they think.

https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/smog-check-manual.pdf

(The catch can exemption is on Pg. 40, if you wanna sea lawyer with your inspector - Oil Separator/Filter - Crankcase gas filter is listed as explicitly not required for visual inspection)
Brian_B, thank you for the link! Yes, section 1.3.1 Visual Inspection is the one I am worried about. The good news is the Cobb and Whipple both meet CA CARB.

I decided to play it safe and stay with the Cobb. It may have slightly less cooling capability vs the Cobb, but the installation is easier and it keeps all the active grill shutter hardware. Purchased a black version from Panda Motorworks.
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