CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[CarbonSteel]

@redone17 - my latest UOA is posted in the sheet on the first page. Nothing of note other than the fuel dilution rate. This run saw some winter conditions, but also a run from Colorado Springs to Yellowstone and a run down to Texas.

So, despite the highway miles and the 2.7L having both MPI (low speed/low load injection) and DI (high speed/high load injection), fuel dilution is still an issue. The M1 oil held up well on viscosity retention so no concerns with it, unlike those I had with the OEM Motorcraft oil.

The TBN was down to 2.8 (2.0 is my cut-off) and so I will stay with a 5K oil change interval. The iOLM indicated there was still over 50% of the oil life remaining and so I would not trust it either. There is no way I could or even consider going another 6K miles on that oil.

Iron generation per mile continues to decline slightly indicating the engine is fully broken in and is wearing nicely. Silicon also continues to drop indicating the residuals from the sealants in the engine are washed out and the air filter continues to trap silicon from outside. I am still running the OEM air filter.

Sponsored

 

[Big Pony]

For all the bolts and fasteners you linked to, any concern with using the black oxide type? Planning on painting my diff cover black and would like the hardware to match.

I used the black ones and they did rust in less than 4 months. It’s cosmetic, but looked like crap. I will be swapping those bolts next time I take the didf cover off. For now I used an oil based paint marker to disguise the rust on the face of the bolt.

 

[redone17]

In all honesty, if those two studs were the shorter stock versions and the rest 25mm - is that the end of the world?

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

In all honesty, if those two studs were the shorter stock versions and the rest 25mm - is that the end of the world?

IMHO, I would think that is fine.

 

[Nc211]

Dumb question alert!!!

Have the FP rear diff cover now on, all went smoothly just like Carbon’s.

Dumb question - two fill plugs? Which one do I use to fill up to? Or does it matter as the lower will hold more than the 2 quarts anyway?

I have to say, yet again, no way it drained 2 quarts out from the factory. No way. I’d say maybe 1 and 1/4. Glad I’m doing this!

Thanks!!

 

[CarbonSteel]

Dumb question alert!!!

Have the FP rear diff cover now on, all went smoothly just like Carbon’s.

Dumb question - two fill plugs? Which one do I use to fill up to? Or does it matter as the lower will hold more than the 2 quarts anyway?

I have to say, yet again, no way it drained 2 quarts out from the factory. No way. I’d say maybe 1 and 1/4. Glad I’m doing this!

Thanks!!

If the axle has some rotation due to an aftermarket lift kit, then you would fill to the top plug which would make the oil level about what it would be not rotated.

If the axle never had oil in it (which yours has), then you would fill to the top plug and then to the bottom one from that point forward due to some of the oil being used to initially coat the internal surfaces.

If the axle has had oil in it and is not rotated due to an aftermarket lift kit, then you would fill to the bottom plug.

Hope this helps!

 

[Nc211]

That’s perfect thank you Carbon! I’m 100% stock non-sas OBX, so lower plug is correct, if I’m reading right?

 

[CarbonSteel]

That’s perfect thank you Carbon! I’m 100% stock non-sas OBX, so lower plug is correct, if I’m reading right?

Yes sir!

 

[Nc211]

All done and pretty easy! Only hiccup were the brake line holders. I ordered a different brand I guess and they wouldn’t fit the screws, so I just reused the OEM’s instead. Love how it looks! Also, the driveline seems smoother and quieter in general. 2 quarts M1 75w - 140 to the lower fill port.

The transfer case, and now the rear diff, not 100% filled to spec from the factory. Will definitely be doing the transmission next. Found the fill tool online and will be buying it tomorrow. Looking at pans with drain plugs too. Carbon, curious what you would recommend for a mall crawler / dune buggy pan that would let me do the “drain and fill” as routine service? I see the PPE one you like, and not opposed to it myself at all, but curious if you think a bit overkill for mine? Going to introduce the Amsoil ATF to the system with hopes it does to this Bronco what it has done to my previous cars, buttery smooth.

 

[CarbonSteel]

All done and pretty easy! Only hiccup were the brake line holders. I ordered a different brand I guess and they wouldn’t fit the screws, so I just reused the OEM’s instead. Love how it looks! Also, the driveline seems smoother and quieter in general. 2 quarts M1 75w - 140 to the lower fill port.

The transfer case, and now the rear diff, not 100% filled to spec from the factory. Will definitely be doing the transmission next. Found the fill tool online and will be buying it tomorrow. Looking at pans with drain plugs too. Carbon, curious what you would recommend for a mall crawler / dune buggy pan that would let me do the “drain and fill” as routine service? I see the PPE one you like, and not opposed to it myself at all, but curious if you think a bit overkill for mine? Going to introduce the Amsoil ATF to the system with hopes it does to this Bronco what it has done to my previous cars, buttery smooth.

The brake line holders have to be drilled out to 8MM--they are 1/4" (or about 6MM).

I think that Dorman makes a plastic pan that has a drain plug that would be a compromise. Not sure on the cost difference between it and the PPE.

If you are not planning on installing skid plates, I would probably opt to go with the aluminum pan.

 

[Nc211]

Reading more into Amsoil AFT on these transmissions.....think I'll stick with the Mercon ULV from the dealership for awhile... The leftover I have is the wrong kind anyway after all, meant for LV instead of ULV.

Carbon, for a pan-off drain/fill, how many quarts do you think is needed for the PPE switch? Basically just buy a case like you did?

 

[CarbonSteel]

Reading more into Amsoil AFT on these transmissions.....think I'll stick with the Mercon ULV from the dealership for awhile... The leftover I have is the wrong kind anyway after all, meant for LV instead of ULV.

Carbon, for a pan-off drain/fill, how many quarts do you think is needed for the PPE switch? Basically just buy a case like you did?

Good choice--what you never want to have happen is a warranty claim that finds you fighting with an OEM over non-approved fluids. They have deep pockets and you will almost assuredly lose. In addition, there is little (nothing) to be gained by using a 3rd party fluid.

I would buy the case to save some $$ and it will likely take 10ish quarts given the +2 for the pan and the longer you allow it to drain the more that you will need.

 

[FstFrd00]

​

Ford Bronco 10R60 Capacity vs. Old Fluid Remaining With Each Change

​

Fluid Change Number​	Total Fluid Capacity​	Total Old Fluid Remaining​	Percentage Of Old Fluid Remaining​
1​	13.1​	8​	61.07%​
2​	13.1​	8​	37.29%​
3​	13.1​	8​	22.77%​
4​	13.1​	8​	13.91%​
5​	13.1​	8​	8.49%​
6​	13.1​	8​	5.19%​
7​	13.1​	8​	3.17%​
8​	13.1​	8​	1.93%​
9​	13.1​	8​	1.18%​
10​	13.1​	8​	0.72%​

​

[/QUOTE]

If I am reading this chart right, if I just drop the pan and add new fluid. It takes roughly 5 qts each OCI.

 

[CarbonSteel]

​

Ford Bronco 10R60 Capacity vs. Old Fluid Remaining With Each Change

​

Fluid Change Number​	Total Fluid Capacity​	Total Old Fluid Remaining​	Percentage Of Old Fluid Remaining​
1​	13.1​	8​	61.07%​
2​	13.1​	8​	37.29%​
3​	13.1​	8​	22.77%​
4​	13.1​	8​	13.91%​
5​	13.1​	8​	8.49%​
6​	13.1​	8​	5.19%​
7​	13.1​	8​	3.17%​
8​	13.1​	8​	1.93%​
9​	13.1​	8​	1.18%​
10​	13.1​	8​	0.72%​

​

If I am reading this chart right, if I just drop the pan and add new fluid. It takes roughly 5 qts each OCI.
[/QUOTE]
Give or take, but I have to say the longer it drains (obviously) the more fluid that is needed. I would have at least 7 qts on hand.

 

[Nc211]

Are we 10r60 or 10r80 on the transmission?

I have everything I need now. Pan arrived, fluid pump, ford refill tool, case of Mercon ULV, and a new transmission filter. Figured if I'm doing all of this, might as well pull the filter for the first 4,000 miles of initial scraps. Although, I didn't enjoy the $100 for the filter from the parts counter. Ouch. Aiming to do this one tomorrow! The PPE pan notes to reuse the existing pan gasket and bolts. The bolts made me think of the rear diff cover replacement and those bolts. Don't know how much thicker the PPE pan is to the OEM plastic in that regard, but I'm about to find out...

I'm not really doing this to change the fluid over concerns of it being dirty. Again, only 4k on the clock at this point. I'm doing it because all of the other fluids I've changed in the driveline appear to be filled to the bare minimum on my car from the factory. I'd say at best 70% of "full". Plus, I like the idea of "drain & fill" on every-other oil change (so, every 10k miles or so) to keep it all nice and clean. I did that on my old 1995 Lexus LS400 back in the day, and it was buttery smooth all the way to 150k miles when the master tech at the Lexus dealer himself bought it from me, 12 years later..

Sponsored