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Under engine armor, Oil drain

Mlarv

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I am about to do my first oil change on my 23 Badlands SAS with the 2.7 engine. My Bronco is not here right now for me to just walk out and a look at it.

I was wondering a few things. Fist off I am pretty sure I have to pull the skid plate. No problem dropping that if I have to.

What I was wondering can I just remove two of the bolts and reach in?

When I have it off, would it be a good idea to drill a hole under the oil drain plug, so I don't have to take the skid off again?

Has anybody drilled a hole and made a plug to go back in it?

I have a hard time laying on my back for any length of time.
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userdude

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You take the engine skid off. Honestly, it only takes a few seconds with an impact drill and doesn't weigh much. Wear safety glasses, all the crap that'll fall out. The back side you only need to loosen, since it'll slide off. I got heavy duty tire ramps, that might help you out.

Someone, I think it was @CarbonSteel, used a Ronin and attached a maybe foot long piece of hose to it, then reaches in and puts that on to change the oil. To me this seems like a great idea. I don't know if you need to remove the skid plate anyway. They are a little pricey for what they are, and I think a little bit of a hassle to install at first.
 

Brian_B

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I know some folks have done some oil drain stuff - but I haven't and don't recall off hand enough to speak to it - there are plenty of older threads about it, I recall the Ronin being mentioned - but I think that was more a reaction to the plastic oil pan and the yellow plastic plug. Seems like you could do a drain relocation line for cheap and be done with it though - but maybe with that plastic thing you can't do it so easily. (My 2.3 is plain old aluminum with a standard plug)

But to the skid plate - some aftermarket plates have an access hole to get at the drain, so yeah, you absolutely could cut out a hole there if you wanted to.

Could you remove some bolts and reach in without dropping the plate --- I know for certain I can't on my 2.3, but can't speak to the 2.7.
 

userdude

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Oh yeah, if you cut a hole, you might hit it with some PB Blaster or other rust inhibitor.
 

CarbonSteel

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You take the engine skid off. Honestly, it only takes a few seconds with an impact drill and doesn't weigh much. Wear safety glasses, all the crap that'll fall out. The back side you only need to loosen, since it'll slide off. I got heavy duty tire ramps, that might help you out.

Someone, I think it was @CarbonSteel, used a Ronin and attached a maybe foot long piece of hose to it, then reaches in and puts that on to change the oil. To me this seems like a great idea. I don't know if you need to remove the skid plate anyway. They are a little pricey for what they are, and I think a little bit of a hassle to install at first.
With Ronin you do not have to drop the skid plate because attaching the key to a hose allows you to screw it into the valve.

With UPR you have to drop the skid plate because (at least not with my large hands) you cannot get enough leverage to open the valve.
 

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userdude

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With Ronin you do not have to drop the skid plate because attaching the key to a hose allows you to screw it into the valve.

With UPR you have to drop the skid plate because (at least not with my large hands) you cannot get enough leverage to open the valve.
What is UPR?
 

CarbonSteel

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iamcris

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4WP skid plates all of them cost $500 (including transmission skid) and Ronin ($60). Pay once cry once. My Ronin doesn't "weep".
 

Aonarch

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You take the engine skid off. Honestly, it only takes a few seconds with an impact drill and doesn't weigh much. Wear safety glasses, all the crap that'll fall out. The back side you only need to loosen, since it'll slide off. I got heavy duty tire ramps, that might help you out.

Someone, I think it was @CarbonSteel, used a Ronin and attached a maybe foot long piece of hose to it, then reaches in and puts that on to change the oil. To me this seems like a great idea. I don't know if you need to remove the skid plate anyway. They are a little pricey for what they are, and I think a little bit of a hassle to install at first.
I do the same thing. Loosen the slotted bolts, remove the other two bolts. It is a 15mm? I think, maybe a 14mm.

I use the Ronin plug and a piece of clear tubing.

Very easy oil change.
 

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Razorback

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CarbonSteel

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I noticed my Ronin weeped after install when I did the next oil change. Strange though i've done about 5 oil changes since then and no weeping... Amsoil Signature 5W30
Mine weeped "always" and I like the double o-ring design on the UPR, just not that I have to drop the skids.

I have too many projects to complete on the Bronco, but I plan to fab a plate with 3 welded nuts to allow for the mid-skid to be dropped without having to remove the entire front skid. I have the RCI aluminum skids that for the front skids is two parts.

They use carriage bolts at the front of the back skid (circled in red) and it would be difficult at best to reach the middle one. I plan to grab some 3/8" socket button head bolts to replace them and with the plate that I will fab (2" x 1/4" x 12" or so) it will make that process much easier.

Ford Bronco Under engine armor, Oil drain RCI
 

Mrchoochoo

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4WP skid plates all of them cost $500 (including transmission skid) and Ronin ($60). Pay once cry once. My Ronin doesn't "weep".
I love my Ronin...it doesn't weep either...so much easier and faster to change the oil
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