CarbonSteel's 2023 Wildtrak Build + Maintenance Journal (Filters, Fluids, Oil Changes Etc)

[redone17]

@redone17 - let me know if you have any questions; the manual transmission stuff is there and the document is complete (for now).

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/carbonsteels-journal.86135/post-2174811

Amazing. I hastily switched to BG SyncroShift II at 20k from reading into Mustang forum posts. From a shifting standpoint, it’s been great. I’ll follow up on what it looks like when I change it around 40k.

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[Razorback]

I can't find it, but I thought I saw some where you replaced the OEM gasket when replacing the rear diff cover. What gasket did you use?

 

[Y2KFirehawk]

I can't find it, but I thought I saw some where you replaced the OEM gasket when replacing the rear diff cover. What gasket did you use?

If you don't re-use the OEM gasket (which you can, it is designed to be reused short of it being damaged) you could buy a new OEM gasket. Others are swapping to the FPP cover, which comes with a gasket you can opt to use as well.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I can't find it, but I thought I saw some where you replaced the OEM gasket when replacing the rear diff cover. What gasket did you use?

I did not replace it. The OEM gasket is reusable many times. I re-used the gasket on my Wrangler (which has the same axle), more than 10 times with no leaks.

The gasket that comes with the FPP is a composition gasket which I have not found anywhere. The only available gasket on the market is the OEM.

 

[telenerd]

I’ve said it before and I will say it again.

Nerd.

 

[rguest3]

Posted this in December, but adding it to my journal so everything is in a single place:


Gang,

I just completed changing the fluid in the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle and added a Ford Performance cover on the rear axle at the same time. I changed all 3 at 2500 miles, the Bronco now has 5000 miles on it, so another 2500 mile run on all three.

I did not find anything unexpected and overall it was a smooth process--that anyone can do. I am not a professional videographer and so the rear axle is a few videos, but by the time I made it to the transfer case, I had figured it out. Apologies for the multiple videos, bad angles, and having to listen to my voice.

I am happy to answer any questions.

This funnel is a lifesaver - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10106B-FloTool-Filler-Refill/dp/B000EH4UXM

Front Axle Video -



- Amsoil 75W-110 fluid (about 1.2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?code=SVTQT-EA
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose 75W-110 because it is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 table update in 2005 AND because the capacity is so small. I also had it in my stash--I will switch to 75W-140 when it runs out.

Transfer Case Video -



- Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid (about 1.8QTs) - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XT-10-QLVC-Oil-Automatic/dp/B07ZTRVLX9
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose Motorcraft Mercon LV versus Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. because there is no combustion by products, the temperatures are nominal, and Motorcraft is cost effective. From my viewpoint, changing standard Motorcraft Mercon LV more often is better than running a premium synthetic longer.


Rear Axle:

- Amsoil 75W-140 fluid (about 2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?code=SVOQT-EA
- PTFE Megatape (Gray) - https://www.amazon.com/HERC-15100-1-2X1000-MEGATAPE/dp/B00LO49TV2
- I chose 75W-140 because Dana recommends it for the M220 axle (they also recommend it for the M210 front axle). Any 75W-140 off the shelf (Castrol, Mobil, or Valvoline, etc.) will also work if you do not want to order Amsoil.
- The bolt thread depth in the axle housing is 23mm. If using the OEM rubber and steel gasket with the Ford Performance cover, then you need M8 bolts that are 25mm long. The supplied bolts with the cover are 20mm and they will be too short for the OEM gasket.

Video 1 - Tools and Parts -

Video 2 - General Discussion About Cover/Brake Line Clips & Prying on Cover -

Video 3 - Initial Drain -

Video 4 - Inspection and Cavity Discussion -

Scott towel showing metal from cavity:

Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps -

Video 6 - OEM Brake Clip Construction -

Rear Cover Hardware (NEW longer flange bolts are needed if using OEM gasket because it it thicker--there will only be about 6-7MM of engagement and it should be AT LEAST the diameter of the bolt; i.e. 8MM). They are not needed if using the supplied gasket with the Ford cover--use the supplied bolts that come with the cover):

10 Each - Flange Bolts: M8x1.25x25mm long - https://belmetric.com/hex-flange-bolt-10-9-coarse-m8x1-25-10mm-wrench-iso-4162/?sku=BFI8X25YLW

2 Each - Brake Line Studs: M8x1.25x75mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-double-end-stud-class-10-9-hardened-steel/?sku=SH8X75DBLK

4 Each - Stud Washers: https://belmetric.com/fender-washer-hv-140-steel-din-7349/?sku=WC8X21YLW

4 Each - Stud Flange Nuts (against cover and one side of brake line clamp): https://belmetric.com/tall-collar-nut-flange-class-10-steel-din-6331/?sku=NFFH8TALLYLW

2 Each - Stud Outside Nuts: https://belmetric.com/flange-nut-smooth-class-10-steel-din-6923/?sku=NFFH8X13YLW

Magnetic Drain Plugs:

3 Each (if replacing all to be the same) - Low-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Plug with Hex Drive, Hollow with Magnet, 1/2 Pipe Size https://www.mcmaster.com/1457N14

[/QUOTE]

Great write up!

Is Friction Modifier Not needed in the front or rear Differentials? I do not see it listed.

Thank you

 

[CarbonSteel]

Great write up!

Is Friction Modifier Not needed in the front or rear Differentials? I do not see it listed.

Thank you

In the Wildtrak, the axles are electronic locking differentials and thus friction modifier is not required. With that said, these days, in synthetic gear oil you would be hard pressed to find it without friction modifier. It does not hurt anything for it to be in the oil.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I'm planning to add some color to the carbon:

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel ..you have really put a huge amount of time and effort into researching all this. Can’t express enough how much we all appreciate that!

A couple things I was wondering.

There are many who would argue that switching to a full synthetic early could prevent, or at least slow the break-in or wear-in process. I changed all fluids (to full synthetic) at 3300 miles with the intention of doing so again at 6700 and 10k. It’s just something that I wonder. Especially in regards to the engine…and maybe that’s been a contributing factor as to why Dana axels have produced so much metal for such long periods for you. Could it be that they just didn’t have time to wear in completely before changing to better fluids?

I was also hoping to see Supertech/Warren oil on your engine oil analysts.

Some thoughts about this and I will go back and edit my article to include and expand on them. There has been an "old wives' tale" about synthetic oils for about as long as they have existed. From how they will cause leaks where none existed to they will delay engine break-in to they (in axles) do not protect as well as conventional oils. None of that is true.

I will focus on the break-in part. If synthetic oils prolong or prevent break-in, then consider the number of vehicles that roll off the assembly line daily filled with synthetic oil with zero miles on them. None of those vehicles have issues with break-in and neither will an axle.

I have collaborated with a Dana engineer about the Advantek axles and the change in design is the primary contributor to the metal generation. They changed the teeth angles and metallurgy to reduce noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH) and to increase strength, while they reduced the overall ring gear size, they changed the hardness/composition of the metal.

Those two things, in combination with OEMs choosing to reduce gear oil viscosity has caused metal generation to happen over a longer period of time. Given the oil supply is neither filtered or pressurized, the only thing to remove the metals is to change the oil often in the short term.

Other axles, even those made by Ford themselves, do not exhibit this behavior, and part of that is not undersizing the axle for the use case so that extra heat is not generated.

Note the M220 axle under the Bronco and Wrangler is smaller than an axle under a 1980s Mustang. Which do you think has more load on it?

8.6" = M220
8.8" = Mustang

 

[CarbonSteel]

I definitely agree. I changed early to all synthetic in my own Bronco. I’m also familiar with all the urban myths surrounding synthetic oil. That said, Comp Cams actually requires using conventional oil during their flat-tappet cam/lifter break-in for that reason. Specifically mentioned that the lifters wouldn’t wear in properly with synthetic.
Just thought I’d mention it. Not arguing…and I’ve been following your advice, but if it’s an old wives tale, it’s being perpetuated by Comp Cams.

Those two issues are mutually exclusive--flat tappet cams require high concentrations of ZDDP (>1000PPM) to break in and to meet the requirements of the API specifications of today; e.g. API SP, oils cannot have those levels. In fact, no oil from API SM and up (API SM, SN, SN+, or SP) can have ZDDP levels that high and be labeled as such.

This is why CompCams says that synthetics cannot be used for break-in, not because the synthetic prevents break-in, but because they will instead, break it. I would bet a steak dinner the oils they are recommending for break-in are conventionals that meet API SL or lower with >1000PPM of ZDDP and/or are marketed as "classic" engine type oils.

Roller lifter/roller follower cams do not have such requirements which is why nearly every engine on the planet today leaves the factory with synthetic oil in them--that and conventionals of today are not even "real" conventionals--they are typically blends of various degrees.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I'm planning to add some color to the carbon:

Looking good

 

[Nc211]

I'm going to do the maintenance on this Bronco myself for a while. It's been a few years since I've crawled under one of my cars, but I remember all of it. This thread is tremendously helpful, thank you for taking the time to do it!!!

I have a couple of questions, something I saw on a YouTube video - do you have to replace the oil pan plug every time because it's plastic? And are they readily available at the dealerships, or is that an item they don't like to sell to the public?

Second question - I see your comments on the change to the 75W-140 on the gear oil. I am confused though by the manual. You comment the 75W-110 you put into the front diff was the same as what the manual calls for prior to a reporting change in standards in 2005. Should I be buying the 75W-140 instead of what the manual is calling for?

Thank you!

 

[CarbonSteel]

I'm going to do the maintenance on this Bronco myself for a while. It's been a few years since I've crawled under one of my cars, but I remember all of it. This thread is tremendously helpful, thank you for taking the time to do it!!!

I have a couple of questions, something I saw on a YouTube video - do you have to replace the oil pan plug every time because it's plastic? And are they readily available at the dealerships, or is that an item they don't like to sell to the public?

Second question - I see your comments on the change to the 75W-140 on the gear oil. I am confused though by the manual. You comment the 75W-110 you put into the front diff was the same as what the manual calls for prior to a reporting change in standards in 2005. Should I be buying the 75W-140 instead of what the manual is calling for?

Thank you!

You do not have to replace the plastic plug each time (only when it begins weeping quite a bit). However, it is very messy when pulling it which is why you see people buying a Ronin or UPR plug which allows for a controlled drain.

The comment about 75W-110 does not relate to the owners manual, but to API where in 2005 they split the old 75W-90 viscosity range nearly in half placing the lower range into 75W-90 and created a new viscosity of 75W-110 for the upper (thicker) range.

Dana specifies 75W-140 for all Mxxx axles, but OEMs such as Ford and Jeep typically reduce that viscosity for MPG (CAFE credits). The closest aftermarket viscosity would be 75W-90 to what Ford states in the owners manual.

I want more protection than what it provides so I use 75W-110 in the front (because I had it) and 75W-140 in the rear. Eventually, I will use 75W-140 in both.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Razorback]

@CarbonSteel thanks for the help. Before the Bronco, I had a tool cup. Buying tools as I need then and have ahd to add a complete tool bench! Now trying to do most everything myself since it's sentimental. Replacing the rear diff cover today with FP cover. Did you use anything to clean the OEM gasket with? Not wanting to use anything that would breakdown the rubber...

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel thanks for the help. Before the Bronco, I had a tool cup. Buying tools as I need then and have ahd to add a complete tool bench! Now trying to do most everything myself since it's sentimental. Replacing the rear diff cover today with FP cover. Did you use anything to clean the OEM gasket with? Not wanting to use anything that would breakdown the rubber...

Just a lintless paper towel like Scott's. It should just wipe clean. It is also reusable at least 10 times. I did that on my Wrangler which is the same gasket/axle.

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