Kicker Key 200.4 w/ PLUG&PLAY Harness....

[SkyKing]

Sorry i can't be of help as I am using a JL Audio 500.1 amp. (Leftover from my X3). Haven't installed yet though and getting a 10 inch Kicker downfiring TRT enclosure setup. I will update on how this goes. should be done by end of week. I will also check my current 2004.1 for gain settings - for reference now, I never need to go beyond 18 or 19 on my volume knob. and it's crystal clear at those levels. My fader is juuuuuuust a little to the "rear" to get a nice, SUBTLE, surround effect.

Interesting. I have another question about this general setup (1 amp for speakers and one amp for sub - using the Pl;ug N play harness. Question: If I back down on the gain for the 200.4 speaker amp, that will mean I will play music at a higher volume level. Will that mean that my sub will put out more bass? (assuming I don't adjust the sub amp?).

I am asking because it's already crazy loud at volume 15 but I feel like there should be more bass. The sub amp is already set at 50% gain with bass boost up so it seems that maybe I should back down on the 200.4 to place more emphasis on the sub. Does that make sense?

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[SROC3]

Interesting. I have another question about this general setup (1 amp for speakers and one amp for sub - using the Pl;ug N play harness. Question: If I back down on the gain for the 200.4 speaker amp, that will mean I will play music at a higher volume level. Will that mean that my sub will put out more bass? (assuming I don't adjust the sub amp?).

I am asking because it's already crazy loud at volume 15 but I feel like there should be more bass. The sub amp is already set at 50% gain with bass boost up so it seems that maybe I should back down on the 200.4 to place more emphasis on the sub. Does that make sense?

See - the main issue with stock radios is that the higher you turn up the volume, the lower the bass becomes as the system EQ compensates for this from the factory - so you don't blow the speakers. Which sucks. So you could go into FORscan and disable the EQ. it will solve your problem I'm pretty sure and allow better tuning. OR - do what I am doing and getting an LC2iPro (https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i-pro/) - it's a line-out converter that does magic. No really. It is THAT amazing. Not very expensive either. How did you wire your system? did you get the harness from plugnplay kits?

 

[SkyKing]

See - the main issue with stock radios is that the higher you turn up the volume, the lower the bass becomes as the system EQ compensates for this from the factory - so you don't blow the speakers. Which sucks. So you could go into FORscan and disable the EQ. it will solve your problem I'm pretty sure and allow better tuning. OR - do what I am doing and getting an LC2iPro (https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i-pro/) - it's a line-out converter that does magic. No really. It is THAT amazing. Not very expensive either. How did you wire your system? did you get the harness from plugnplay kits?

I disabled EQ in Forscan already. I used the Plug and play harnesses specifically for the Kicker 200.4 and 500.1 amps. I'm just thinking that the system now goes sooo loud I'd never go past 15 on the volume so maybe I should:
1. back off on the gain on the 200.4 speaker amp
2. turn up the volume higher and that would result in comparatively more output from the 500.1 sub-amp... right???

(I am also waiting for a new remote volume knob - first one didn't work - maybe that will solve it).

 

[SROC3]

I disabled EQ in Forscan already. I used the Plug and play harnesses specifically for the Kicker 200.4 and 500.1 amps. I'm just thinking that the system now goes sooo loud I'd never go past 15 on the volume so maybe I should:
1. back off on the gain on the 200.4 speaker amp
2. turn up the volume higher and that would result in comparatively more output from the 500.1 sub-amp... right???

(I am also waiting for a new remote volume knob - first one didn't work - maybe that will solve it).

AH! - the remote volume will DEF help solve it. But 100% back off on the gain. Mine is almost to 0 just fyi.

 

[SROC3]

AH! - the remote volume will DEF help solve it. But 100% back off on the gain. Mine is almost to "0" just fyi. Also, too much gain you distort the sound.

 

[SkyKing]

Here's a question for the Key 500.1 subwoofer amp. When I play the Key setup tracks (sweep and gain matching), they blast through my main speakers at volume 23, but the directions say that no sound will be audible during these steps. What am I doing wrong?

 

[SROC3]

Here's a question for the Key 500.1 subwoofer amp. When I play the Key setup tracks (sweep and gain matching), they blast through my main speakers at volume 23, but the directions say that no sound will be audible during these steps. What am I doing wrong?

Hmmm.....I don't have the key 500.1. I have JL Audio amp. But my 200.4 - specifically said to NOT have any additional amps or bass units functioning during the DSP tuning. For the 500.1 I have no clue. Sorry man.

 

[SkyKing]

this made a tremendous difference. Boosting the gain on "AMP 2" compared to "AMP 1" brings the rear pods to life. And by reducing the "AMP 1" gain to near zero, my volume knob is now a bit higher so my subwoofer is hitting much harder.

 

[SROC3]

this made a tremendous difference. Boosting the gain on "AMP 2" compared to "AMP 1" brings the rear pods to life. And by reducing the "AMP 1" gain to near zero, my volume knob is now a bit higher so my subwoofer is hitting much harder.

Yup - this is pretty much how I will be setting up my system - 200.4 - gain to almost "0" - then increase the gain on the sub amp to balance it all out

 

[Bmadda]

Here's a question for the Key 500.1 subwoofer amp. When I play the Key setup tracks (sweep and gain matching), they blast through my main speakers at volume 23, but the directions say that no sound will be audible during these steps. What am I doing wrong?

The 500.1 will not play any sound through the sub, but the main speakers still will. you are probably doing it right. Was confusing to me at 1st too

 

[SROC3]

The 500.1 will not play any sound through the sub, but the main speakers still will. you are probably doing it right. Was confusing to me at 1st too

Yes. The 200.4 instructions state this - turn off or disconnect all "sub" related items. I would still recommend getting an LC2i......it really makes a WORLD of difference.

 

[Bmadda]

Yes. The 200.4 instructions state this - turn off or disconnect all "sub" related items. I would still recommend getting an LC2i......it really makes a WORLD of difference.

he is talking about 500.1 setup...different from the 200.4. 200.4 setup is done w/no sub connected. 500.1 you leave the main audio system alone. The sub amp stays silent, but the main audio still plays sound (really annoying sound too!)

 

[Kk2112]

Sorry new to all this the plug and play kit 11 ok if I have the 7 speaker setup?? I upgraded all my speakers except the sub which I'll do at a later time. All these kits got my head spinning lol. Thank you all

 

[SROC3]

Sorry new to all this the plug and play kit 11 ok if I have the 7 speaker setup?? I upgraded all my speakers except the sub which I'll do at a later time. All these kits got my head spinning lol. Thank you all

To be 100% I would call plugNplay directly - the owner actually answers the call - Joe. Very DIRECT person and will give you straight answers and ask the right questions to help you. I actually always called him when I was upgrading slowly from speakers....to amp....and recently to my sub (harness from him, but he made a special one for my JLAudio AMP). .....BUT - to answer your Q directly, #11 is the correct package IF you have the base system. Your ears will smile after you install this......

 

[SROC3]

Hey guys so i figured I would post a quick update here.....Since the install of the Kicker Key 200.4 I have NOT touched the last two (2) dip-switches at all from the factory. Today I changed this. 8 switches total. I leave switch #7 "up" and switch #8 "down" - this basically adjusts the cross-over to only send frequencies above 120HZ to all cabin speakers. I do have a sub, powered by a JL Audio amp. I did need to do a little re-tuning and I gotta say - if you haven't done this yet, make the adjustment, especially if you have a subwoofer. The only caveat to this is that the quality of the sub you use will be even more apparent. So re-tuning the amp will be key. As a result of this, I am upgrading my Kicker enclosed TRTP10 to a JL Audio 10in box (BassWedge CP110). I will create another post for this once I have time to break it in and fine-tune the whole system again.....The never ending quest for better sound

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