Makes sense. We’re still on factory shocks so that’s limiting us now, but looking into Rock Krawler shocks and swapping to the Antirock swaybar. Might be an issue then. Guess we’ll need a driveline…We did not discuss door count but since the suspension is identical I would imagine it’s possibility…but a 4 door likely has a sway bar that limits travel. Basically the more down travel you have the higher the chance of it happening. As the passenger side compresses and the drivers side falls out it will steer the pinion into the tank…
I think will just come down to how much down travel you have on how much you’ll have to do.Hopefully the 4 door can just get by with the RJ anti-sway and some skid trimming....
My guess is you’ll be fine…since I haven’t see anyone else mention it I would imagine most people have been fine.Makes sense. We’re still on factory shocks so that’s limiting us now, but looking into Rock Krawler shocks and swapping to the Antirock swaybar. Might be an issue then. Guess we’ll need a driveline…
We’re just not looking at our rigs like you didMy guess is you’ll be fine…since I haven’t see anyone else mention it I would imagine most people have been fine.
We’re just not looking at our rigs like you did
Was there a noise that prompted you to check?
A side impact load, like, say.... dropping a rear corner off of a rock into a rut, can easily put the full weight of the vehicle into the rear axle, laterally. The factory track bar handles this load in-line, between mounts designed to handle load in that direction.
No track bar means side loads are reacted through the parallel link mounts, a couple feet away (IE there's a big lever arm) and to mounts not designed for torsion.
Sorry if this comes across as harsh but from an engineering standpoint I really don't like these setups very much.
Nice catch! Or are you just trying to make me feel good for doing a better job on our exhaust?So just to add to the issue I brought up yesterday…..here are a couple screenshots from the video exodus put out after they installed their RK 4 link. If I remember right this is the fox hoss 3.0 shocks, icon lowers and portals.
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I went back and re watched with the sole intention of looking at the issue. Before buying I watched a few times and never noticed.Nice catch! Or are you just trying to make me feel good for doing a better job on our exhaust?
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Do you have a thread that details your exhaust? Did you just cut the factory pipe and add a muffler? How's it sound? I did the exact same thing on my EB years ago and I was wondering about doing the same on my '23.Nice catch! Or are you just trying to make me feel good for doing a better job on our exhaust?
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Uhmmmmmmmm…maybe it’s in our build thread? But it’s just a 2.5” flowmaster with the dump from the factory muffler cut off then slash cut and welded on. Cost $45 to do everything. As far as sound it’s raspy as hell under full throttle but under normal conditions the lower tone helps it out. On the interstate it’s not horrible and might almost seem quieter. I’m not a fan of loud exhaust unless it’s on something at actually sounds good like an L-Twin or V8, but we had to do it with the triangulation kit and rear winch.Do you have a thread that details your exhaust? Did you just cut the factory pipe and add a muffler? How's it sound? I did the exact same thing on my EB years ago and I was wondering about doing the same on my '23.
I'm waiting for shop time to install my RK 4-link kit and RJ Antirock, so I need to do something with the exhaust. I'm not a big fan of the one RJ sells.Uhmmmmmmmm…maybe it’s in our build thread? But it’s just a 2.5” flowmaster with the dump from the factory muffler cut off then slash cut and welded on. Cost $45 to do everything. As far as sound it’s raspy as hell under full throttle but under normal conditions the lower tone helps it out. On the interstate it’s not horrible and might almost seem quieter. I’m not a fan of loud exhaust unless it’s on something at actually sounds good like an L-Twin or V8, but we had to do it with the triangulation kit and rear winch.
Just had mine put in last week at @Doetsch Off-Road here in Phoenix. Also had mine regeared at the same time so I‘ve not been off-road with it yet as I’m breaking those in. When flexing it, they found clearance issues with the RCI Fuel tank skid and trimmed accordingly (see pics). Side note: I’m running 38s, Radflo extended travel coil overs, and a 1 1/2” body lift.
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since you took the track bar bracket off the frame I would try rerouting the exhaust in that area so it has more clearance from the truss….I couldn’t bring myself to cut it off yet so mine will probably dump out before the rear axle like most have done