Undercoating using waxoyl

[Victorsen]

I am considering undercoating my bronco with waxoyl wanted to get some advice. Some of my off-road activities always involves mud and I hate the process of cleaning the truck. Would undercoating help with washing off the mud easier as well as protecting.

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[WarthogJr]

Yes

 

[FIREGROUNDIMAGES]

Definitely following this!

 

[Victorsen]

Thanks I hate the clay mud we get here in Maryland. Ok will do it and see how easy it is wash off. I know fluid film seems to interfere with some of the sensors that is why I am trying to go with waxoyl.

 

[Summit981]

I’m in Maryland and applied Waxoyl to my 2022 4-door Badlands (non-SAS) using a kit purchased from Rovers North. I previously had a 2003 Land Rover Disco II and had Waxoyl professionally applied when I was stationed up in New England.

This time I applied it to the Bronco myself at home using the kit and it was fairly simple to do. Also cheaper doing it yourself. I bought the kit for large unibody ($153) and it was more than enough to shoot the vulnerable areas underneath. Probably could get away with using the Small Unibody kit at $120. You will get two different types of wax in the kits: a hard wax (black) for applying to all exposed surfaces and a clear wax that I shot into the frame rails using the kit’s extension tube. (Believe me, you’ll really need to do this… I didn’t realize how many stamped holes are in the frame rails.)

Some tips: do this outside in your driveway on a warm day with no / little wind. Wear a disposable tyvek or “painters” suit and latex gloves, with eye protection. (You’re going to get sticky overspray on you.) Remove the rear cargo floor and then pull out that large plastic storage bin. This will expose the top of a black painted cross member. Spray some hard wax on that and then replace the cubby and cargo floor before getting underneath. Next, I worked underneath from the front to rear. I stayed away from the engine area completely and focused first on shooting the clear wax inside the frame rails and crossmembers using the supplied extension tube. Once complete, I then applied the black hard wax to the exposed, factory-painted body areas, the exterior of the frame rails, the crossmembers and exposed axle surfaces. I stayed well away from the brake components, brake sensors, shock assemblies, differential plugs and rotating shafts…. Basically anything a mechanic would curse me for applying sticky black goop. Once your all done, follow the instructions about letting the Waxoyl “cure” before driving anywhere.

 

[Victorsen]

Thanks that is really helpful. Did you have a ramp?

 

[5GENIDN]

I’m in Maryland and applied Waxoyl to my 2022 4-door Badlands (non-SAS) using a kit purchased from Rovers North. I previously had a 2003 Land Rover Disco II and had Waxoyl professionally applied when I was stationed up in New England.

This time I applied it to th Bronco myself at home using the kit and it was fairly simple to do. Also cheaper doing it yourself. I bought the kit for large unibody ($153) and it was more than enough to shoot the vulnerable areas underneath. Probably could get away with using the Small Unibody kit at $120. You will get two different types of wax in the kits: a hard wax (black) for applying to all exposed surfaces and a clear wax that I shot into the frame rails using the kit’s extension tube/digger. (Believe me, you’ll really need to do this… I didn’t realize how many stamped holes are in the frame rails.)

Some tips: do this outside in your driveway on a warm day with no / littlr wind. Wear a disposable tyvek or “painters” suit and latex gloves, with eye protection. (You’re going to get sticky overspray on you.) Remove the rear cargo floor and then pull out that large plastic storage bin. This will expose the top of a black painted cross member. Spray some hard wax on that and then replace the cubby and cargo floor before getting underneath. Next, I worked underneath from the front to rear. I stayed away from the engine area completely and focused first on shooting the clear wax inside the frame rails and crossmembers using the supplied extension tube. Once complete, I then applied the black hard wax to the exposed, factory-painted body areas, the exterior of the frame rails, the crossmembers and exposed axle surfaces. I stayed well away from the brake components, brake sensors, shock assemblies, differential plugs and rotating shafts…. Basically anything a mechanic would curse me for applying sticky black goop. Once your all done, follow the instructions about letting the Waxoyl “cure” before driving anywhere.

So is the Waxyoyl still "sticky" after curing? and how ling does it take to cure?

 

[Summit981]

Per Waxoyl USA: ‘The drying time is highly dependent on room temperature, humidity, air flow and the film thickness. Under ideal conditions (good air circulation, 68 F) the film can be handled after 6 hours.’ I just let the truck sit out overnight to cure.

in terms of stickiness, it sets up as a hard wax. So, no, not sticky once cured.

 

[5GENIDN]

Per Waxoyl USA: ‘The drying time is highly dependent on room temperature, humidity, air flow and the film thickness. Under ideal conditions (good air circulation, 68 F) the film can be handled after 6 hours.’ I just let the truck sit out overnight to cure.

in terms of stickiness, it sets up as a hard wax. So, no, not sticky once cured.

Thank you.... Makes perfect sense and was what I was expecting from a "wax" base but wanted confirmation.

You obviously like the product. I am going to have to check it out. trying to compare this with the amsoil "waxy" version.... I do not live in the midwest so the "oil" does not appeal to me nearly as well. I would probably think a little harder on that "oil" if I lived in the "rust belt".

 

[Summit981]

Here in Maryland-Virginia-DC region, winters can sometimes get snowy but the greater concern is ice/freezing rain. DOT crews here spray a beet juice/salt brine mix on the roads that’s more effective then spreading dry salt but because it applies as a liquid, passing cars get this stuff permeating deep into every nook and cranny of their vehicles. Really sets you up for rust in places you can’t see. That, and the facts that 1) these Bronco’s are pretty expensive and 2) the factory anti-corrosion treatment is pitiful, is what motivated me to apply this preventative right after taking delivery. Anything you choose is going to help more than the bone-stock factory treatment.

 

[Summit981]

Thanks that is really helpful. Did you have a ramp?

No sir, just crawled underneath on my back. Even with a non-SAS on 33” tires, there was plenty of access. I did bring a big LED detailing lamp underneath with me so I could see where and on what I was spraying. Safety glasses where a big help. I got a little overspray on my face - looked like a raccoon when I was done.

 

[Victorsen]

I applied the Waxoyl and I noticed it still a bit sticky has been a few hours does it eventually get hard was wondering if it will attract a bunch of dirt when I go in a dirt road

 

[FIREGROUNDIMAGES]

I’m in Maryland and applied Waxoyl to my 2022 4-door Badlands (non-SAS) using a kit purchased from Rovers North. I previously had a 2003 Land Rover Disco II and had Waxoyl professionally applied when I was stationed up in New England.

This time I applied it to the Bronco myself at home using the kit and it was fairly simple to do. Also cheaper doing it yourself. I bought the kit for large unibody ($153) and it was more than enough to shoot the vulnerable areas underneath. Probably could get away with using the Small Unibody kit at $120. You will get two different types of wax in the kits: a hard wax (black) for applying to all exposed surfaces and a clear wax that I shot into the frame rails using the kit’s extension tube. (Believe me, you’ll really need to do this… I didn’t realize how many stamped holes are in the frame rails.)

Some tips: do this outside in your driveway on a warm day with no / little wind. Wear a disposable tyvek or “painters” suit and latex gloves, with eye protection. (You’re going to get sticky overspray on you.) Remove the rear cargo floor and then pull out that large plastic storage bin. This will expose the top of a black painted cross member. Spray some hard wax on that and then replace the cubby and cargo floor before getting underneath. Next, I worked underneath from the front to rear. I stayed away from the engine area completely and focused first on shooting the clear wax inside the frame rails and crossmembers using the supplied extension tube. Once complete, I then applied the black hard wax to the exposed, factory-painted body areas, the exterior of the frame rails, the crossmembers and exposed axle surfaces. I stayed well away from the brake components, brake sensors, shock assemblies, differential plugs and rotating shafts…. Basically anything a mechanic would curse me for applying sticky black goop. Once your all done, follow the instructions about letting the Waxoyl “cure” before driving anywhere.

Thanks so much for this. I bought the medium sized kit and will attempt this on Monday (11/6) after reading your description. Questions...Did you remove your skidplates? And did you spray your skidplates as well? Did you remove your plastic wheel well liners and spray in there? And lastly, do you have any photos? Sorry for all the questions. Just figured I would try to get as much info before doing this my first time.

 

[Summit981]

Thanks so much for this. I bought the medium sized kit and will attempt this on Monday (11/6) after reading your description. Questions...Did you remove your skidplates? And did you spray your skidplates as well? Did you remove your plastic wheel well liners and spray in there? And lastly, do you have any photos? Sorry for all the questions. Just figured I would try to get as much info before doing this my first time.

I did not remove any of the skid plates nor the wheel liners. I did not spray on the skid plates since those are “sacrificial” in purpose. I focused on just exposed frame and body and inside the frame and crossmembers. Completely avoided wiring, brakes, sensors, drive shaft. Sorry, no photos (but that’s a good idea. I should take a look underneath after driving all summer / early fall).

 

[FIREGROUNDIMAGES]

I did not remove any of the skid plates nor the wheel liners. I did not spray on the skid plates since those are “sacrificial” in purpose. I focused on just exposed frame and body and inside the frame and crossmembers. Completely avoided wiring, brakes, sensors, drive shaft. Sorry, no photos (but that’s a good idea. I should take a look underneath after driving all summer / early fall).

Perfect! That is exactly what I was thinking. Protect as much as I can....without causing any issues. Thank you very much!

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