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Mountains2Metal Rear Cargo Additions

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Looks terrific. Would like to do something similar. I'd love the details on where and how you routed the wiring? And what gauge?

Thanks
it comes with a 7' harness which isn't long enough, but they make a 7.5' extension harness to add to it. its ran down the side panel corner then under the rocker panel sill top panels all the way to behind the dead pedal panel then through the rubber grommet plug. The two harness connectors between the two harnesses I got to sit under the drivers top middle sill pop off panel, its tight but got it to work. The gauge is a Measurment 2-1/2 Dial Glycerin Filled. I may at some point put a regulator on it so that I can set it at 45psi for refill since the system holds 90-100psi.
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it comes with a 7' harness which isn't long enough, but they make a 7.5' extension harness to add to it. its ran down the side panel corner then under the rocker panel sill top panels all the way to behind the dead pedal panel then through the rubber grommet plug. The two harness connectors between the two harnesses I got to sit under the drivers top middle sill pop off panel, its tight but got it to work. The gauge is a Measurment 2-1/2 Dial Glycerin Filled. I may at some point put a regulator on it so that I can set it at 45psi for refill since the system holds 90-100psi.
Thank you for these details. I am also wondering about running the wires from the engine compartment to the back via the under-carriage. I don't actually have my truck yet so I cannot see if this is feasible. My thought is to protect the wire from the elements and tuck it up out of the way. Secure it well. I would then come through the rear portion of the truck with a drilled hole and grommet (and lots of silicone!). I have not read anyone here on the forum discussing this so I'm not sure if it is a bad idea or not possible? I will have a manual so I've heard that grommet through the firewall is not available to me - so I will have to drill a hole anyway?

Your thoughts on that? Or is your path a no-brainer. Thanks
 
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Thank you for these details. I am also wondering about running the wires from the engine compartment to the back via the under-carriage. I don't actually have my truck yet so I cannot see if this is feasible. My thought is to protect the wire from the elements and tuck it up out of the way. Secure it well. I would then come through the rear portion of the truck with a drilled hole and grommet (and lots of silicone!). I have not read anyone here on the forum discussing this so I'm not sure if it is a bad idea or not possible? I will have a manual so I've heard that grommet through the firewall is not available to me - so I will have to drill a hole anyway?

Your thoughts on that? Or is your path a no-brainer. Thanks
Usually you run power/ground wires attached to the outside of the frame rails, but on an off-road that leaves it to exposure which I think would not be good. At some point if I decide to power up more things in the rear, I would most likely redo it and run two wires to a rear distribution block then go from there. This wire harness I ran is pretty big as it has 3 wires, I would think you could run pos/neg 2awg in the same space. Drilling the firewall is easy, you can use a step drill bit and just find a proper size grommet when done.
 

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Usually you run power/ground wires attached to the outside of the frame rails, but on an off-road that leaves it to exposure which I think would not be good. At some point if I decide to power up more things in the rear, I would most likely redo it and run two wires to a rear distribution block then go from there. This wire harness I ran is pretty big as it has 3 wires, I would think you could run pos/neg 2awg in the same space. Drilling the firewall is easy, you can use a step drill bit and just find a proper size grommet when done.
Thanks for your thoughts. Your idea of a distribution box makes sense. I'd like to see that in action! What gauge would you run for that?

I will have to study the under carriage when I have the luxury of crawling under a real truck - hopefully in the next month or two!
 

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Finished the side installs after I upgraded the subwoofer. No more worries of scratching up the panels. Next up install the onboard compressor. @Copperhorse73

PXL_20230503_235943358.jpg


PXL_20230503_235947106.jpg


PXL_20230503_235951161.jpg
Any rattling in the cargo tray? Could you feel comfortable mounting a small 10” subwoofer to the tray?
 

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Any rattling in the cargo tray? Could you feel comfortable mounting a small 10” subwoofer to the tray?
Once in a while you might hear a rattle if its empty, but since I carry bungie cords I just connected those and zero issues. Given the weight of a sub I would say you wont have any issues.
 

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Getting closer just waiting on an extension harness and fittings. This is an EGOI dual compressor and has a switch on it so that's a nice feature.

PXL_20230505_182002198.jpg


PXL_20230504_131019447.webp


This has a bit different backplate than the ARB but you can get 6 of the 8 bolts needed for the Mountains2Metal molle plate and it's very secure. @Copperhorse73
Do you have any experience or opinions on the EGOI yet? It’s at that price point where I’m thinking “it’s $100 more to get the ARB, so why not get the ARB”
 
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Do you have any experience or opinions on the EGOI yet? It’s at that price point where I’m thinking “it’s $100 more to get the ARB, so why not get the ARB”
I have used it a couple of times no issues so far and I like the simplicity of the built in on/off button instead of wiring in a separate switch.. I got the EGOI for a lot less (discounted at $449) so that is the reason I did it.
 

Hossfire

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Finished the side installs after I upgraded the subwoofer. No more worries of scratching up the panels. Next up install the onboard compressor. @Copperhorse73

PXL_20230503_235943358.jpg


PXL_20230503_235947106.jpg


PXL_20230503_235951161.jpg
I like that the M2M panels allow for rear seat recline.
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