Spare tire lug nuts

[Parker0076]

Still can’t figure out why they only put 3 lug nuts on the spare. I think it looks cheap. That being said, I now have all 6 on mine. I originally was going to add 3 studs (or 12x1.50 bolts) to the tire holder by drilling holes in it, but at the last minute decided to TRY “Hot gluing “ the lug nuts on. I cleaned the wheel and lug nut with degreaser prior to gluing. I purposely broke one free a few times to see how good it will hold, and in my opinion I believe they will hold just fine. Time will tell and I will update as time goes on and I go through the Carwash a few times. Before anyone jumps on me about the “locking Nut”, I know they are easily defeated, but might slow some of the amateurs up, either way….it’s cheap piece of mind.

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[Ducati1098]

Wait.. so it’s not even functional. You just glued some lug nuts onto your wheel?

Also, why are you posting this in the raptor section?

 

[Parker0076]

Wait.. so it’s not even functional. You just glued some lug nuts onto your wheels?

Also, why are you posting this in the raptor section?

THE SPARE

 

[USAGUY]

Will not “Jump on you” about the “locking nut”. That does not make you insane. Hot glueing lug nuts on your spare. That’s a whole other story.
JK. Well done.

 

[Ducati1098]

THE SPARE

Lol Yes, clearly it’s the spare. I still don’t understand

 

[Parker0076]

Lol Yes, clearly it’s the spare. I still don’t understand

Just FILLS the empty holes

 

[BostonSasquatch]

Some of us have our aesthetic sensitivities. I get that.

I have a functional problem related to this. I was wrestling my flat (Badlands Sasquatch LT315/70R17/C) onto the rear rack after a tire change, and was having trouble hefting it onto the rear gate tire mount (getting old here, alas). I managed to scrape or gouge the threading on the right-top stud, and now won't accept the nut, leaving me with two holding the spare on. They've been sufficient--so far--but I can't rely on that indefinitely.
I showed it to my dealer's service manager, and he wants to sell me the complete rack assembly at about $1100! (Fink!). The lug is not bolted on, but is somehow affixed like a welded-in carriage bolt, hard to "feel" how it's joined.
My first approach will be to have a machinist re-thread the lug. If that doesn't work, does anybody have any ideas or experience on removing and replacing a spare-tire rack's stud?

 

[Bike007b]

Some of us have our aesthetic sensitivities. I get that.

I have a functional problem related to this. I was wrestling my flat (Badlands Sasquatch LT315/70R17/C) onto the rear rack after a tire change, and was having trouble hefting it onto the rear gate tire mount (getting old here, alas). I managed to scrape or gouge the threading on the right-top stud, and now won't accept the nut, leaving me with two holding the spare on. They've been sufficient--so far--but I can't rely on that indefinitely.
I showed it to my dealer's service manager, and he wants to sell me the complete rack assembly at about $1100! (Fink!). The lug is not bolted on, but is somehow affixed like a welded-in carriage bolt, hard to "feel" how it's joined.
My first approach will be to have a machinist re-thread the lug. If that doesn't work, does anybody have any ideas or experience on removing and replacing a spare-tire rack's stud?

That is too bad, that could happen to any of us.

a) usually you can run a die over the threads.
b) a little bit of a high price to pay for the fix from the dealer.
c) I’m sure the dealer could fix that without a whole new part.
d) good luck.

 

[Parker0076]

You could get a THREAD FILE and clean the threads up yourself. I used to work in the machine tool industry assembling machines and i have thread file. Very easy to do. They’re made in metric and American.

 

[GI_Jo_Nathan]

Some of us have our aesthetic sensitivities. I get that.

I have a functional problem related to this. I was wrestling my flat (Badlands Sasquatch LT315/70R17/C) onto the rear rack after a tire change, and was having trouble hefting it onto the rear gate tire mount (getting old here, alas). I managed to scrape or gouge the threading on the right-top stud, and now won't accept the nut, leaving me with two holding the spare on. They've been sufficient--so far--but I can't rely on that indefinitely.
I showed it to my dealer's service manager, and he wants to sell me the complete rack assembly at about $1100! (Fink!). The lug is not bolted on, but is somehow affixed like a welded-in carriage bolt, hard to "feel" how it's joined.
My first approach will be to have a machinist re-thread the lug. If that doesn't work, does anybody have any ideas or experience on removing and replacing a spare-tire rack's stud?

I would see if Harbor Freight has a tap and die set with the proper thread pitch and try it yourself first.

 

[UniBroncorn]

Still can’t figure out why they only put 3 lug nuts on the spare. I think it looks cheap. That being said, I now have all 6 on mine. I originally was going to add 3 studs (or 12x1.50 bolts) to the tire holder by drilling holes in it, but at the last minute decided to TRY “Hot gluing “ the lug nuts on. I cleaned the wheel and lug nut with degreaser prior to gluing. I purposely broke one free a few times to see how good it will hold, and in my opinion I believe they will hold just fine. Time will tell and I will update as time goes on and I go through the Carwash a few times. Before anyone jumps on me about the “locking Nut”, I know they are easily defeated, but might slow some of the amateurs up, either way….it’s cheap piece of mind.

In my opinion, I would not trust your opinion "they will hold just fine". All fun and games until one flys off and hits a vehicle, cyclist or pedestrian.

 

[CUZICAN]

Some of us have our aesthetic sensitivities. I get that.



I have a functional problem related to this. I was wrestling my flat (Badlands Sasquatch LT315/70R17/C) onto the rear rack after a tire change, and was having trouble hefting it onto the rear gate tire mount (getting old here, alas). I managed to scrape or gouge the threading on the right-top stud, and now won't accept the nut, leaving me with two holding the spare on.  They've been sufficient--so far--but I can't rely on that indefinitely.

I showed it to my dealer's service manager, and he wants to sell me the complete rack assembly at about $1100! (Fink!). The lug is not bolted on, but is somehow affixed like a welded-in carriage bolt, hard to "feel" how it's joined.

My first approach will be to have a machinist re-thread the lug. If that doesn't work, does anybody have any ideas or experience on removing and replacing a spare-tire rack's stud?

I have a set similar to this, they're great, put them on the stud where the threads are still good and then thread them off. Never have to worry about being crooked when making a repair.

Steelman M12-1.50 Metric Split Die Thread Chaser, Indexing Pins, Steel, Repairs Threads on Wheel Studs and Bolts https://a.co/d/4Fpfo5c

 

[swamp2]

Strongly suggest epoxy over hot glue. Probably 100x stronger...

 

[Bugkillah]

Some of us have our aesthetic sensitivities. I get that.

I have a functional problem related to this. I was wrestling my flat (Badlands Sasquatch LT315/70R17/C) onto the rear rack after a tire change, and was having trouble hefting it onto the rear gate tire mount (getting old here, alas). I managed to scrape or gouge the threading on the right-top stud, and now won't accept the nut, leaving me with two holding the spare on. They've been sufficient--so far--but I can't rely on that indefinitely.
I showed it to my dealer's service manager, and he wants to sell me the complete rack assembly at about $1100! (Fink!). The lug is not bolted on, but is somehow affixed like a welded-in carriage bolt, hard to "feel" how it's joined.
My first approach will be to have a machinist re-thread the lug. If that doesn't work, does anybody have any ideas or experience on removing and replacing a spare-tire rack's stud?

Tap and die set, cheap and easy.

 

[HBTFD]

Ford saves 3 lug nuts for every bronco and the labor to install 3 more lug nuts. That’s why there are 3 vs 6.

As several have said get a die and fix the threads yourself.

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