Stripped Hardtop Thread from Factory - Suggestions ?

[Blu6GBronco]

Oh man... That's a shame. Fingers crossed I don't run across this every corner.

All said, I've read from misc sources that these 10 bolts to remove the hard top are either m8, m10 or m12. Can anyone confirm which? I'll head out and grab a tap for it.

Also, anyone know what Ford suggests for torq spec on these guys? I've searched forums and manual and the only thing I came across that might be in reference to these bolts is was 15 +- 2 ft lbs. Does this sound right? I've seen some folks had issues by possibility over tightening and cracked the base of the hardtop where the bolts secure to the frame.

Thanks guys

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[swami37]

Remove the top Then tap the hole with appropriate size tap. Like you said probably a booger in one of the threads

 

[Lifeliberty]

Oh man... That's a shame. Fingers crossed I don't run across this every corner.

All said, I've read from misc sources that these 10 bolts to remove the hard top are either m8, m10 or m12. Can anyone confirm which? I'll head out and grab a tap for it.

Also, anyone know what Ford suggests for torq spec on these guys? I've searched forums and manual and the only thing I came across that might be in reference to these bolts is was 15 +- 2 ft lbs. Does this sound right? I've seen some folks had issues by possibility over tightening and cracked the base of the hardtop where the bolts secure to the frame.

Thanks guys

Pretty sure mine are M8

If you're going to hardware store, just take one of the bolts with you. You will need to get the right pitch for it. I'm not sure what that is. I didn't need that size

I think the sasquatch rings and bolts for transfer case skid are are M10 with a 1.5 thread pitch(i did need these tapped)

Found it: Post in thread 'Rockworkx hard top bolts installed. Removable by hand' https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nstalled-removable-by-hand.37371/post-1506791

Yes, the Thread is M8 1.25 on all the hardtop bolts. G

 

[Blu6GBronco]

Pretty sure mine are M8

If you're going to hardware store, just take one of the bolts with you. You will need to get the right pitch for it. I'm not sure what that is. I didn't need that size

I think the sasquatch rings and bolts for transfer case skid are are M10 with a 1.5 thread pitch(i did need these tapped)

Found it: Post in thread 'Rockworkx hard top bolts installed. Removable by hand' https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nstalled-removable-by-hand.37371/post-1506791

Nice. Thank you for confirming and providing the link !

 

[351W-Bronco]

When you first removed the one factory bolt, did you inspect the threads? That would give a lot of insight.

 

[mjsmitty69]

Run a tap down through it. It will clean the threads right up.

 

[Blu6GBronco]

I did check the threads when removed the bolt for the first time and it definitely had more exposed metal shavings inside the threading. Definitely not as clean as the rest of the bolt locations.

 

[Blu6GBronco]

Hey guys, Quick update. I did purchase the correct m8 x 1.25 tap in the event I end up chasing this myself. All said, I did stop short and called my dealer and explained. They said its hard to say for sure if it will be covered as a technician would have to inspect to make heads or tails on what the deal is / how / when it might have happened. I'm sure this is where the dealer could push back a bit if they want and claim it was self inflicted even though i know it wasn't since the bolt hasn't been removed since came from factory. They said I could drop it off and have them take a look. I guess depending what they say / do ( regardless if at a cost ) , I could always failback and resort to chasing with a tap myself if either they wont touch it and/or it still isn't right after i get it back. I guess it can't hurt to ask ?

 

[mcinfantry]

Time. The time spent to chase it, is better than the time spent to have them do it

 

[Blu6GBronco]

True. I guess admittedly, given its been 20 years since I've had to tap a thread and done so maybe a total of 3 times, there's slight apprehension in the event I make matters worse, and ford would then likely determine I attempted to fix and at that rate I'm sure they wouldn't cover it.

 

[Billnchristy]

You already bought the tap, spend the 5 minutes and be done.

 

[huey]

True. I guess admittedly, given its been 20 years since I've had to tap a thread and done so maybe a total of 3 times, there's slight apprehension in the event I make matters worse, and ford would then likely determine I attempted to fix and at that rate I'm sure they wouldn't cover it.

if you are not using a hand tap tool and are using a drill, be sure to set chuck to a low threshold so you don't make it worse or break the tap. Take your time, use some cutting fluid and you should be fine. Remember you are only chasing the threads and not cutting for the first time. Hopefully it is only a goober of threadlock or some extra paint in the threads

good luck

 

[Billnchristy]

Thread to resistance, back off, thread, back off. It'll be like butter when you're done. Only concern is getting it straight but since it's already threaded, it should line up easy. Lube is your friend, if you don't have cutting fluid oil will work fine, you shouldn't be making much heat just chasing threads.

 

[Itsdchz]

Just installed the Rockworx. Our passenger side, two middle screws seem to have some resistance, and do not easily start the thread. Because of that, and this forum post, I will use a thread starter and hope to cut the threads better. All others loosened and tightened very easily, these were noticeably different, I didn’t force them, replaced original screws until thread kit is here.

 

[RHeinz]

Pretty sure the bolts are not installed cross threaded. I’m not here to defend Ford (they should know better). You CANNOT put any kind of steel bolt into aluminum without anti-seeze compound. The threads will “gall” and lock-up, being nearly impossible to remove. Stainless on stainless is almost as bad.

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