DIY Factory Tow Package using OEM parts with Forscan As-built Data (without error codes)

[Blaylock1988]

I used this full writeup and did it to my own Bronco, and successfully towed a KZ Escape E180QB 7-pin camper trailer with trailer brakes to Super Celebration West (Colorado Springs to BV Chalk Creek Campground). Everything worked flawlessly. The truck recognized when the trailer was connected and disabled rear sensors and blind spot monitoring.

I wasn't able to test the brake controller before getting the trailer. Once a real trailer is connected the knob lights up very brightly when you manual override, and it goes from green and fades red (if set high enough strength) as it gradually applies the manual override. When pressing the brake pedal while driving the knob doesn't light up but it definitely applies the brakes. Interestingly, if the brake controller was set to like 1.5 or lower the trailer brakes wouldn't engage at all, I guess this particular one had a minimum sensitivity before they work.

The Bronco didn't appear to shift or drive any differently though like other trucks with an actual tow mode. I found sport mode with 2H to be pretty helpful for big inclines and descents.

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[SnowshoeBronco]

OK, long read:
I just installed the Tow-Pro using these parts:

T1Z15A416A Ford Module & 4-Pin Wiring Harness $125
Tow-Pro EBRH-ACC-V3-NA Kit $237
Tow-Pro TPH-007 Harness $22
Hopkins #41144 (Trailer 4-7 Pin Plug and Harness ) $50

If I had to do it again I would use the Curt parts as they come with connectors.

First I pulled the Headlight switch panel (which is the panel under the steering wheel), down. It hinges at the bottom so it stays attached to the dash. There are several clips that release when you pull outward on the panel. I used a plastic molding hook to pull it out. A metal hook will work too. Then I removed the headlight switch assembly which is just clipped into the panel. It comes out easily. I drilled a 10mm hole for the TowPro switch in the space to the right of the headlight switch. This is a perfect location and saves taking the console apart as well.
Next, I mounted the Tow Pro Module under the steering wheel on the backside of the metal plate, with double-stick 3M tape. It fits in there perfectly. Next plug in the harness from the module to the switch, and the harness from the module to the Customer Access plug next to the gas pedal. This is a very easy hook-up.
Note: Before installing the Tow-Pro harness to the Customer Plug I soldered in a 12 gauge pigtail to the blue wire. This is the wire that goes to the trailer brakes at the 7-Pin Connector. You could just solder in the blue wire but it's easier to do the pigtail IMO on the bench.

I didn't see any reason to take the interior apart on my truck so here's how I did it.

I Removed the Left and Right Rubber covers on next to the taillights on the rear door sides. I installed the Module behind the left taillight. There's a flat spot there where the Module sticks to the body panel and is very secure.

Next, I installed the trailer plug next to the trailer hitch and used the Ford aluminum foil around the harness as it's right next to the muffler. I ran the harness under the bumper and up to the wires hanging down from the Module.

Next, I soldered in the wires to the L&R Turn, Brake, Tail, and Reverse lights. For the right side, I ran the wire down into the bumper, across to the other side, and up to the light. As I said the Curt kit would be easier than soldering but I had already purchased the Ford kit using my points.

At this point, I ran the 2 - 12 Gauge wires,, B+ and Brake Control, from front to rear. I used Fish Tape and pulled the wires through the inside of the frame from front to rear. It's easier to run the fish tape from the front. I then ran the Blue Trailer Brake Wire up to the small Rubber Access Plug and through to the Pigtail on the Tow-Pro. You can pull the Access Plug out and drill a hole in it. Then install the Blue wire before installing the rubber plug back into the firewall. I ran the Red wire to the Battery where the 4 accessory posts sit. Did a clean job and wrapped the wire so it matches the other Ford harnesses with black cloth tape,.

So now it was just a matter of connecting together the 4 Wire Plug (Cut it off) to the 7 Wire Harness along with the Blue Brake Wire and The Hot B+ wire. I Checked the turn signals, brake, and taillights with a test light before cutting off the 4-wire connector, just to make sure the 4-wire module was working.

I didn't take a lot of pictures. Here's a couple:

Did you just solder a pigtail to the blue redarc harness wire? I am going to try and run your set up, but with the curt harness.

 

[Jimmiee]

Did you just solder a pigtail to the blue redarc harness wire? I am going to try and run your set up, but with the curt harness.

Yes that’s what I did. I ran it out through the firewall plug and down to the frame through a plastic harness, fished it through the frame to the rear and up to the Ford (or Curt) harness.

 

[SnowshoeBronco]

Yes that’s what I did. I ran it out through the firewall plug and down to the frame through a plastic harness, fished it through the frame to the rear and up to the Ford (or Curt) harness.

Awesome, thanks.

I have power to the curt harness already, do you think i could pull 12v + off of that or did you run a separate wire for battery charging at the 7 pin?

 

[Jimmiee]

Awesome, thanks.

I have power to the curt harness already, do you think i could pull 12v + off of that or did you run a separate wire for battery charging at the 7 pin?

I ran a separate wire along with the blue wire right from the battery. The reason is you need more amperage especially if you are feeding a trailer. I mean some trailer systems use this voltage to charge the trailer battery while driving. If you don’t plan on towing a travel trailer or even a trailer with electric brakes and a back up battery.

 

[srt42b]

I've followed RoverDude's guide and got most of this working. I'm down to a couple issues that I'm still sorting out. My TRM is still throwing a 2100 error even after all the ForScan changes and I'm not getting +12v on the blue wire at the trailer plug (more like 2-3v). I already checked the fuses at 91 and 107. Going to test voltage on the blue wire at C201, the 2 blue wires at the TRM and the brown wire at the Customer Access (TBC). Any other thoughts?

 

[Jimmiee]

I've followed RoverDude's guide and got most of this working. I'm down to a couple issues that I'm still sorting out. My TRM is still throwing a 2100 error even after all the ForScan changes and I'm not getting +12v on the blue wire at the trailer plug (more like 2-3v). I already checked the fuses at 91 and 107. Going to test voltage on the blue wire at C201, the 2 blue wires at the TRM and the brown wire at the Customer Access (TBC). Any other thoughts?

I wouldn't worry about 12V on the blue wire until you fix the U2100. This code indicates you didn't get the ForScan Programming correct. "A continuous memory and on-demand DTC that sets due to incomplete or incorrect TRM configuration." Go back and reprogram it again. Once you get it right you won't have any voltage problems on the blue wire.

 

[RoverDude]

I've followed RoverDude's guide and got most of this working. I'm down to a couple issues that I'm still sorting out. My TRM is still throwing a 2100 error even after all the ForScan changes and I'm not getting +12v on the blue wire at the trailer plug (more like 2-3v). I already checked the fuses at 91 and 107. Going to test voltage on the blue wire at C201, the 2 blue wires at the TRM and the brown wire at the Customer Access (TBC). Any other thoughts?

Confirm The TRM has the same values as I listed, I doubled check and those where accurate (well they work for me)

And when you say "blue" wire what pin are you talking about specifically?
I am assuming you are talking about pin 3 on the 7-pin connector.


You need to have the brake controller installed and have a load on .


Note: The button will not light up consistently or not at all at this point. It requires a load (5-21w RESISTIVE load)

I did not see this in the included Ford’s material BUT: "The Tow-Pro™ Elite will check for shorts on the trailer wiring and a cold 55W bulb has an initial “inrush” current as it first warms up that exceeds the trip point, and the Tow-Pro™ Elite will see this as an intermittent wiring short. "

" To test your Tow-Pro Elite brake controller, connect a 5 - 26W bulb or automotive test light (with a bulb in it, not LED type) between the ‘ground’ pin (no. 2) and ‘brake controller output’ pin (no. 3) of your trailer 7 pin plug." (In a prior post I said pins 1 and 2, that was a typo)

 

[tmallon78]

this is the best write up yet..

 

[srt42b]

Thank you everyone. I fixed the 2100 error by Writing All to the TRM. No other changes. I even compared my As Built to another similarly equipped bronco but with tow. All TRM values match Rover Dude's.

The 12v issue seems to be a problem with my tester. After reading the reviews on my tester, it doesn't put enough load on the circuit. I'll pick up a resistor this week to test properly. And yes, I was referring to pin 3 at the trailer plug (#16 at c201).

 

[Njchris1968]

Nice write up. I’m planing on doing a trailer hitch on our Base. I originally was just doing the Curt wiring and a brake controller don’t think I gain much going oem but I’ll have to see if their is a benefit to it the extra time and money don’t bother me. Thanks

 

[RoverDude]

this is the best write up yet..

Thanks!
On a side note/ Confirmation on others have said/ posted in the past.

Yesterday and today I've been updating all the modules using FDRS (I bought a two-day license).
I checked my current as built file from the motorcraft website. The trailer control module is part of my vehicles as built data now as far as Ford is concerned (it wasn't before today).
FDRS saw the module no issue!

 

[Fade5G]

I also had the U2100 code. Double-checked all values and confirmed they were correct. I too had some initial values that were different but I opted to change them anyway. I re-wrote all values… no joy. Cleared all the DTCs then magically the tow package appeared and seems to be working.

 

[Wickedbronco]

OK, long read:
I just installed the Tow-Pro using these parts:

T1Z15A416A Ford Module & 4-Pin Wiring Harness $125
Tow-Pro EBRH-ACC-V3-NA Kit $237
Tow-Pro TPH-007 Harness $22
Hopkins #41144 (Trailer 4-7 Pin Plug and Harness ) $50

If I had to do it again I would use the Curt parts as they come with connectors.

First I pulled the Headlight switch panel (which is the panel under the steering wheel), down. It hinges at the bottom so it stays attached to the dash. There are several clips that release when you pull outward on the panel. I used a plastic molding hook to pull it out. A metal hook will work too. Then I removed the headlight switch assembly which is just clipped into the panel. It comes out easily. I drilled a 10mm hole for the TowPro switch in the space to the right of the headlight switch. This is a perfect location and saves taking the console apart as well.
Next, I mounted the Tow Pro Module under the steering wheel on the backside of the metal plate, with double-stick 3M tape. It fits in there perfectly. Next plug in the harness from the module to the switch, and the harness from the module to the Customer Access plug next to the gas pedal. This is a very easy hook-up.
Note: Before installing the Tow-Pro harness to the Customer Plug I soldered in a 12 gauge pigtail to the blue wire. This is the wire that goes to the trailer brakes at the 7-Pin Connector. You could just solder in the blue wire but it's easier to do the pigtail IMO on the bench.

I didn't see any reason to take the interior apart on my truck so here's how I did it.

I Removed the Left and Right Rubber covers on next to the taillights on the rear door sides. I installed the Module behind the left taillight. There's a flat spot there where the Module sticks to the body panel and is very secure.

Next, I installed the trailer plug next to the trailer hitch and used the Ford aluminum foil around the harness as it's right next to the muffler. I ran the harness under the bumper and up to the wires hanging down from the Module.

Next, I soldered in the wires to the L&R Turn, Brake, Tail, and Reverse lights. For the right side, I ran the wire down into the bumper, across to the other side, and up to the light. As I said the Curt kit would be easier than soldering but I had already purchased the Ford kit using my points.

At this point, I ran the 2 - 12 Gauge wires,, B+ and Brake Control, from front to rear. I used Fish Tape and pulled the wires through the inside of the frame from front to rear. It's easier to run the fish tape from the front. I then ran the Blue Trailer Brake Wire up to the small Rubber Access Plug and through to the Pigtail on the Tow-Pro. You can pull the Access Plug out and drill a hole in it. Then install the Blue wire before installing the rubber plug back into the firewall. I ran the Red wire to the Battery where the 4 accessory posts sit. Did a clean job and wrapped the wire so it matches the other Ford harnesses with black cloth tape,.

So now it was just a matter of connecting together the 4 Wire Plug (Cut it off) to the 7 Wire Harness along with the Blue Brake Wire and The Hot B+ wire. I Checked the turn signals, brake, and taillights with a test light before cutting off the 4-wire connector, just to make sure the 4-wire module was working.

I didn't take a lot of pictures. Here's a couple:

I am planning on doing this exact install tonight but with tekonsha harness from p3 controller to factory plug and the curt harness in rear.

Why did you tap into blue wire instead of just cutting it? Does it provide feedback back to the bronco?
Did you need to use forscan to activate the plug? I have power to the P3 but don’t know if I am getting brake signal?
I don’t have forscan yet and was hoping to get this working without it.

 

[Jimmiee]

I am planning on doing this exact install tonight but with tekonsha harness from p3 controller to factory plug and the curt harness in rear.

Why did you tap into blue wire instead of just cutting it? Does it provide feedback back to the bronco?
Did you need to use forscan to activate the plug? I have power to the P3 but don’t know if I am getting brake signal?
I don’t have forscan yet and was hoping to get this working without it.

Yes, the Blue wire also goes to the Bronco's computer, so you don't want to cut it. You don't need to activate the plug, it's ready to go. The Tow Pro is what gives you the brake signal depending on the G force so you don't need Fore Scan to activate it.

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