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Firewall pass-through for power supply on 7MT.

BroncoAZ

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I have always taped a long zip tie on the wire and fed the zip tie through the hole, then pulled the wire through. I need to pull an amp power wire and power for my ARB fridge tomorrow.

Worst car I ever pulled wire on was my 2015 VW Passat. Getting 4 gauge through the small grommet on the firewall was hell.
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BroncoAZ

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Let us know if that works out. I ran the ARB fridge harness (2x10 gauge sheathed together) through the grommet on the drivers side, it was very tight. I’ll need to add another power wire for an amplifier soon. I may pull the ARB harness out and run a single piece of 4 gauge to a distribution block in the cab.
 

redone17

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Let us know if that works out. I ran the ARB fridge harness (2x10 gauge sheathed together) through the grommet on the drivers side, it was very tight. I’ll need to add another power wire for an amplifier soon. I may pull the ARB harness out and run a single piece of 4 gauge to a distribution block in the cab.
Did you setup a second battery to keep your fridge hardwired?
 

BroncoAZ

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Did you setup a second battery to keep your fridge hardwired?
Not yet, I just wired it to the main battery and set the fridge voltage cutoff to the mid setting. I ran it this way for a week trip to NH and VT and it worked fine. On my 2021 Silverado 1500 the fridge will kill the truck battery to the point where the truck won’t start after about day #3, if I run the truck daily there are no issues. I did a dual battery setup in my last commuter car, but I was living out of the fridge 4-5 days per week back then.
 

redone17

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Not yet, I just wired it to the main battery and set the fridge voltage cutoff to the mid setting. I ran it this way for a week trip to NH and VT and it worked fine. On my 2021 Silverado 1500 the fridge will kill the truck battery to the point where the truck won’t start after about day #3, if I run the truck daily there are no issues. I did a dual battery setup in my last commuter car, but I was living out of the fridge 4-5 days per week back then.
I keep it on mid setting too - it’s worked pretty well. Why go through all of the trouble of wiring it to the battery and why not just use the 12V in the cargo area?
 

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BroncoAZ

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I keep it on mid setting too - it’s worked pretty well. Why go through all of the trouble of wiring it to the battery and why not just use the 12V in the cargo area?
I tried that in my 2015 Touareg and 2017 Outback, there is too much voltage loss in the small gauge wiring going to that cargo area 12v for the fridge to work well. It is quick to hit the voltage cutoff and shut down. I’m not sure if the cargo area plug in the Bronco is constant on or switched, but that is another factor.
 

redone17

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I tried that in my 2015 Touareg and 2017 Outback, there is too much voltage loss in the small gauge wiring going to that cargo area 12v for the fridge to work well. It is quick to hit the voltage cutoff and shut down. I’m not sure if the cargo area plug in the Bronco is constant on or switched, but that is another factor.
Ah! That makes sense on why it hits the cutoff sometimes - but, the battery is totally fine. I had to turn the cargo to be hot 24/7 with Forscan - but, this makes sense. I’ll hit you up with a DM to avoid getting this thread too far off topic.
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