Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[Rd1103]

I set the crossover on the Kicker Key to 120HZ. That's a high-pass crossover, so the speakers it is connected to (in my case the front dash and kick panels) will not play anything below 120HZ.

On your sub, it will be a low-pass crossover, so it will not play above whatever you select. I set mine to 120HZ also to cover the entire frequency band.

Assuming it sounds great, but how much improvement did you see? I've installed a kicker key amp, a bi-amp wiring setup from Hoel, and Kicker CS speakers all around. I still have issues with what I figure is low range bass on a lot of songs, and it really doesn't "bump" like it should still haha. I'm assuming this hideaway fixes the issue, and recently got one and am deciding where to install it. Did you install in the cargo bay? Thanks for this tip on the crossover settings as well!

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[greatlakes]

Assuming it sounds great, but how much improvement did you see? I've installed a kicker key amp, a bi-amp wiring setup from Hoel, and Kicker CS speakers all around. I still have issues with what I figure is low range bass on a lot of songs, and it really doesn't "bump" like it should still haha. I'm assuming this hideaway fixes the issue, and recently got one and am deciding where to install it. Did you install in the cargo bay? Thanks for this tip on the crossover settings as well!

It made a tremendous difference.

To be fair, I ran my Kicker amplifier a little differently than most: I wired it for bi-amp mode and replaced both the dash speakers and the kick panel speakers. I went with Focal for the dash and Dayton Audio for the kick panels (Dayton Audio had very similar specs with the Focals at a bargain-basement price of $60 for the pair).

Putting the amp in bi-amp mode adds additional crossovers for the dash and kick panel speakers in addition to the dip switches to add an extra crossover. So, I ended up with the following crossover points:

Focal 4" 2-way dash speakers: Only play above 320hz
Dayton Audio 6.5" kick panel speakers: Only play between 120hz and 640hz
10" Infinity subwoofer: Only plays below 120hz
Rear stock speakers: I have no idea but can't really hear them anyway

To add bass you have to move air, and small speakers are just not capable of moving enough air. So yes, adding any type of sub will certainly help. My single 10 is enough to fill out the sound and allow me to feel the bass drum kicks again, and the kick panels have good mid-bass.

 

[MOBRONCO]

It made a tremendous difference.

To be fair, I ran my Kicker amplifier a little differently than most: I wired it for bi-amp mode and replaced both the dash speakers and the kick panel speakers. I went with Focal for the dash and Dynaudio for the kick panels (Dynaudio had very similar specs with the Focals at a bargain-basement price of $60 for the pair).

Putting the amp in bi-amp mode adds additional crossovers for the dash and kick panel speakers in addition to the dip switches to add an extra crossover. So, I ended up with the following crossover points:

Focal 4" 2-way dash speakers: Only play above 320hz
Dynaudio 6.5" kick panel speakers: Only play between 120hz and 640hz
10" Infinity subwoofer: Only plays below 120hz
Rear stock speakers: I have no idea but can't really hear them anyway

To add bass you have to move air, and small speakers are just not capable of moving enough air. So yes, adding any type of sub will certainly help. My single 10 is enough to fill out the sound and allow me to feel the bass drum kicks again, and the kick panels have good mid-bass.

Those don’t look like any Dynaudio I’ve seen, and for $60 you said? Link?

 

[greatlakes]

Those don’t look like any Dynaudio I’ve seen, and for $60 you said? Link?

That's my fault. I meant to type Dayton Audio. I'll correct my post - thanks for pointing that out.

https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-GF180-4-6-1-2-Glass-Fiber-Cone-Woofer-4-Ohm-295-417

 

[Rd1103]

It made a tremendous difference.

To be fair, I ran my Kicker amplifier a little differently than most: I wired it for bi-amp mode and replaced both the dash speakers and the kick panel speakers. I went with Focal for the dash and Dayton Audio for the kick panels (Dayton Audio had very similar specs with the Focals at a bargain-basement price of $60 for the pair).

Putting the amp in bi-amp mode adds additional crossovers for the dash and kick panel speakers in addition to the dip switches to add an extra crossover. So, I ended up with the following crossover points:

Focal 4" 2-way dash speakers: Only play above 320hz
Dayton Audio 6.5" kick panel speakers: Only play between 120hz and 640hz
10" Infinity subwoofer: Only plays below 120hz
Rear stock speakers: I have no idea but can't really hear them anyway

To add bass you have to move air, and small speakers are just not capable of moving enough air. So yes, adding any type of sub will certainly help. My single 10 is enough to fill out the sound and allow me to feel the bass drum kicks again, and the kick panels have good mid-bass.

Thanks for the pictures and information! Just to clarify on your kicker key setup. I am also wired for bi-amp mode (hoel wiring THANK YOU) and replaced those speakers and got a kicker key. On the kicker key, you still have bi-amp mode engaged, correct? Sorry if it's a silly question, but just trying to understand. Thank you.

 

[greatlakes]

Thanks for the pictures and information! Just to clarify on your kicker key setup. I am also wired for bi-amp mode (hoel wiring THANK YOU) and replaced those speakers and got a kicker key. On the kicker key, you still have bi-amp mode engaged, correct? Sorry if it's a silly question, but just trying to understand. Thank you.

Not a silly question - I had to read the manual and white paper 3 times to make sure I had it right.

Yes, I have the bi-amp mode engaged on the dip switches.

 

[BRONBO]

@plugnplaykits

I bought kit 11 already. Now I am thinking I want to add a kicker hideaway sub. Which wiring harness do I need to buy to add it?

 

[marjen]

So wondering if anyone else had this issue. I had my 200.4 and 500.1 amps installed a couple weeks ago. The installers weren’t able to get the sound right and wanted me to bring it back. It went back today and they continued to have issues, especially with getting the subs to work right. Tried another source and amps and subs were fine. They then thought it was the plug play kit and maybe it is, but end of day the signal was not strong enough so they had to add one of these.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646KILD4/Kicker-46KISLOAD4.html

picking it up later but seeiing if anyone else had issues? You might not even know as I was getting sound out of the subs so just thought it needed a little calibration but sound was t horrible and was in fact way better than factory Cant wait to see what it sounds like now.

 

[SlvrSurfRidr]

Couple things, plug and play kit and Key200 should run your dash/kick panel/pods. You'll need a resistor or LOC from there to run the sub.

The RCA should run from the LOC to the Key500. The idea is that LOC bypasses the key200 and goes straight to the next amp. You don't want to amp an already amped signal.

Check out these kits if it helps:
KIT 11-4 (resistor) => cheapest option
KIT 12-1 (PAC LPA-1.2 SUB CONVERTER 17 FT HARNESS WITH BUILT IN LOAD RESISTORS) => better

 

[marjen]

Couple things, plug and play kit and Key200 should run your dash/kick panel/pods. You'll need a resistor or LOC from there to run the sub.

The RCA should run from the LOC to the Key500. The idea is that LOC bypasses the key200 and goes straight to the next amp. You don't want to amp an already amped signal.

Check out these kits if it helps:
KIT 11-4 (resistor) => cheapest option
KIT 12-1 (PAC LPA-1.2 SUB CONVERTER 17 FT HARNESS WITH BUILT IN LOAD RESISTORS) => better

i do have the kit 11-4

 

[taperunner]

I feel like this is kind of a dumb question but I didn't get a manual with my kicker key and there were no instructions with the plugnplay harness. Do I need to do anything else like run power from the battery or do anything with ground wires? I thought it was strictly plug and play but I feel like I've seen people talking about running power and other stuff. I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before install.

 

[Dadsquatch]

What trim removal tools are needed to install the Kicker 200.4 since you have to drop the steering column trim panel & the stereo trim panel? Any tips? Thank you.

 

[Blaven]

What trim removal tools are needed to install the Kicker 200.4 since you have to drop the steering column trim panel & the stereo trim panel? Any tips? Thank you.

Watch the video on the 1st page. It shows use of one of the trim tools. You can get a cheap kit on Amazon.

 

[plugnplaykits]

Kicker key 200.4 and 500.1 kits are back in stock while they last .

 

[Mhsaint]

When I put the volume to around 16/17 the speakers get muffled, almost distorted. I turn down the bass and mid-range a bit and it helps but would have thought the kicker key amp would have allowed it to be cleaner at higher volume. The gain is all the way down on the amp.

The dash 4" Kickers have 150hrz bass blockers. The lower panel and back row speakers are also kickers. I am using the T-Harness from plug n play harnesses: https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41157659852990

I emailed Kicker support and they said "
The KEY200.4 has a minimum of 4 ohm’s. If the speakers are wired in parallel its 2 ohm’s." - whatever the hell that means lol.

But I believe the T-Harness I am using has all 6 speakers running off the amp if I am not mistaken.

It means that you are over driving the amp two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel like ford did from the factory means the amp is seeing 2 ohms not good according to kicker tech will blow up the amp

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