Ya I haven’t turned mine up more than 16 and that was full speed down the highway with the top off. The wife complained it hurt her ears lol.Isn't 25-30 like. REALLY FLIPPING HIGH? Maybe the head unit is overheating and cutting out, not the amp.
I ordered the same kit, lets hope everything will work better than expected. ( question did your kit included the actual RCAs for the bass amp? )I ordered kit 11-4 from PNPK and a Kicker Key 200.4 and Kicker 11HSB8 from Crutchfield and plan to install the amp using the PNPK this weekend and then have the local audio shop install the sub sometime next week. I have already replaced all four 4” speakers with Infinity Reference 4032CFX which did make a difference from stock. I used 300 Hz bass blockers on the dash speakers only. Will the rear pods need bass blockers as well once I add the 200.4? I understand the head unit filters the rear pod speakers originally, but am worried once I install the 200.4 it will send much more signal to the rears (which would be great), but I definitely do not want to damage the rears. Thanks in advance.
Ah-ha! It is not. I copied what I saw on someone's here and just switch 1 was down.Make sure your radio detect button is on. That will stop the popping.
I hope so too. My PNPK 11-4 did not include RCA cables, so I elected to add the Kicker speaker wire to RCA adapter kit when I ordered the sub from Crutchfield. Hopefully that will be everything needed, but still unsure if bass blockers (300 Hz or 600 Hz) will be needed for rear pods.I ordered the same kit, lets hope everything will work better than expected. ( question did your kit included the actual RCAs for the bass amp? )
I have the gains turned all the way down and the limiter keeps kicking in also. I have Hertz dash door and rears.Anyone with the Key 200.4 running into limiter issues? At 20/30 volume and gains zerod out I am hitting the limiter. Any addition to the gains and it’s riding it constantly. I feel like the speakers aren’t being pushed enough, the sound is alright but not a significant improvement over stock.
Not really. I may be a little hard of hearing lol. I like my music LOUD. I wouldnt call myself an audiophile becuase i dont do it often, but ive always done all my cars up completely myself . Trying to keep this one as "stock" looking as possible. But i kind of feel the amp hidden may not be getting the air it needs to operate correctly.Isn't 25-30 like. REALLY FLIPPING HIGH? Maybe the head unit is overheating and cutting out, not the amp.
That’s a good question 300 or 600 Hz. I know for the dash speakers 300Hz will work but the rear pods Im not sure, hopefully they will be fine, I will be ordering 300Hz my self.I hope so too. My PNPK 11-4 did not include RCA cables, so I elected to add the Kicker speaker wire to RCA adapter kit when I ordered the sub from Crutchfield. Hopefully that will be everything needed, but still unsure if bass blockers (300 Hz or 600 Hz) will be needed for rear pods.
I did not put bass blockers in the rear pods. Unfortunately you don’t really hear them upfront anyway.That’s a good question 300 or 600 Hz. I know for the dash speakers 300Hz will work but the rear pods Im not sure, hopefully they will be fine, I will be ordering 300Hz my self.
Turn the volume downInstalled the key 200.4 last night and it is awesome. Only complaint is that the radio button tones and door/seatbelt chimes are at supersonic loud levels. How do I fix that?
Maybe my gains are set too high, but then again, anyone who listens to AC/DC at volume 6 instead of 16 should not be allowed to install an ampTurn the volume down
Maybe through Forscan?
Absolutely!Maybe my gains are set too high, but then again, anyone who listens to AC/DC at volume 6 instead of 16 should not be allowed to install an amp. I'll check the Forscan angle.