Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[TheShark]

How did you do the pink noise

USB stick. I tried the phone 3 times and it failed each time. Finally put the mp3 file on a USB stick and ran it from there, worked the 1st time. Found out later that the phone is not recommended.

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[Tamarak]

I wanted to post an update on my build as reading these threads has helped a ton so passing this on for others for help and inspiration.

I completed today the install of a kicker key 200.1 with PlugNPlay kit 11 with the added subwoofer to RCA plugs. I used the Kicker 800 amp with Kicker 48TRTP122 down firing sub. I went with this down firing sub so I could stack things on top. I also wanted keep the sound in a bit more with the top off. Fear not about downfiring on base output, this thing hits hard..

I bought the KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp installation kit as well as a kicker bass control knob. 4 gauge was the recommendation on the 800 amp. After reading many wiring posts from Reddit and other places I chose this as it was as high quality as kits from Crutchfield that were almost 2x as much. I did my own home theatre and I know better than to cheap out on cable. Maybe wiring kits were barely a thought for others, but I didn’t know much about this as it relates to amps so I researched quite a bit.

Cost wise I’m in for about $1400 total between the PlugNPlay harness with sub and RCA, two amps, the sub, the amp installation kit and bass control knob and 6 Kicker KS speakers with boom mats and harnesses. The local car audio shop wanted $1k just for the speakers and the kicker 200 amp. I’d bet they’d have got me for $3k for this setup otherwise.

The sound is outstanding now. I had the Alpine system in my Wrangler before and this system kicks the crap out of that. It’s been cool to hear the difference with each piece of equipment as I did this over 3 different steps. First speakers, then speaker amps, then sub.

I am basically new to car audio and using this thread and the original videos plus a few key posts and I got it done solo in about 5 hours. I mounted the amp above the glove box vs under the steering wheel as I wanted to run the power for the sub down the driver side and also maximize how much RCA cable I had/ not have it next to the power.

Special thanks to @Thicky_Vicky for her post on page 20 as I was really struggling to find a good spot for the sub amp. I know the spot under the carpet in the back isn’t for everyone, but I won’t be getting rained on and it’s a cubby that would never have been used. For the record it sits in really nicely and does not rattle. I’ll clean up the cabling in the pic below at some point, but I didn’t want to trim it and lose options in the future. I’m not 100% committed to the amp location and will consider going where the factory one is in the future should I see a post that isn’t as involved as @cmcbronco (though I’m jealous of his skills).

The video below was also very helpful, particularly because @evilletruck shows how to get the control panel off where the head unit wiring is without it being scary as hell. He shows the spot to punch through the firewall. He also explores behind all the paneling in the rear which was useful in ruling out places and giving me future ideas. I’d recommend this in addition to the original post.

 

[KeithK]

I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.

The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.

I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.

I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.

Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

What did you use to play the pink noise? A USB connection with a memory stick or through your phone? I keep getting error 4 with my set up. Thanks.

 

[KeithK]

USB stick. I tried the phone 3 times and it failed each time. Finally put the mp3 file on a USB stick and ran it from there, worked the 1st time. Found out later that the phone is not recommended.

Did you have the radio on when you did the pink noise and at what level was it at? I've tried the USB stick multiple times and still get the sad music and 4 beeps (pink noise and audio level error.) Thanks.

 

[cmcbronco]

What did you use to play the pink noise? A USB connection with a memory stick or through your phone? I keep getting error 4 with my set up. Thanks.

Try disabling CarPlay on your head unit. Turn off Bluetooth on your phone. Actually plug your phone in go to audio source on the head unit. It will have your phone there with wired connection.

 

[mikey_photo]

What did you use to play the pink noise? A USB connection with a memory stick or through your phone? I keep getting error 4 with my set up. Thanks.

I had no issues using my phone for this. I downloaded the file onto my iphone and connected it to the usb and it worked fine. I got the happy tone from the kicker setup the first time.

 

[mikey_photo]

Try disabling CarPlay on your head unit. Turn off Bluetooth on your phone. Actually plug your phone in go to audio source on the head unit. It will have your phone there with wired connection.

Exactly this... worked the first time for me.

 

[67BroncoG1]

What did you use to play the pink noise? A USB connection with a memory stick or through your phone? I keep getting error 4 with my set up. Thanks.

I have done it but with a phone and with a usb stick. I think the stick is much easier. That said, I have had errors both ways. Once the mic had slipped forward. Other times I didn't have the volume up far enough. I have even had my dog barking at the Amazon delivery man screw it up.

 

[TheShark]

Did you have the radio on when you did the pink noise and at what level was it at? I've tried the USB stick multiple times and still get the sad music and 4 beeps (pink noise and audio level error.) Thanks.

Yes, the head unit was on, make sure you crank the volume up high enough, also make sure you get the mic position correctly, should be point up. I never had any luck with my phone even hard wired with BT turned off.

 

[KeithK]

Yes, the head unit was on, make sure you crank the volume up high enough, also make sure you get the mic position correctly, should be point up. I never had any luck with my phone even hard wired with BT turned off.

I figured out what I did wrong…had the source selection on phone vs usb and also wasn’t playing the noise before I started the test. I thought the amp ran the whole thing. Duh.

 

[KeithK]

One idea I had for placement of the Kicker Key 200.4 amp was in the glove box. Worked out well and had room for the Plugnplaykits harness over the top of the box. Out of site yet accessible if necessary. Truthfully I could not reach up further to figure out how the OP did it nor the patience!

 

[KeithK]

The best place is the back of the metal bar under the steering wheel.

I looked at that and found it too tight for the steering wheel to move about.

 

[TheShark]

The best place is the back of the metal bar under the steering wheel.

Totally agree with you, it's like that metal plate was made for the Kicker. Also if I need to make any adjustments I just pop the panel off.

 

[KeithK]

Also, for you MT drivers, there is a different fire wall location to run the power wire through as the larger rubber grommet from the AT Verizon is taken up by the clutch. A small cover can be poked out and a new rubber grommet installed to protect the wire from chafing.

 

[KeithK]

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