Replacing 4” speakers on the dash and rear pods.

[jh3113]

I am wondering what you did different than me. I can't get the rear covers back on as the tweeter sticks out too far. I took off the two tabs, Did you do any modifications to the speaker to get this to work?

Can you send me a pic of what yours looks like? You have the 6 speaker bronco, right?

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[Badassbronco]

Should I just cut the harness and connect the wires or buy harnesses? The Hoel harness are more expensive so I’m not sure I want to go that route.

Will either of these harnesses work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OAB6BW/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09DXYG2HF/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=AQV9S8KEF5NF&psc=1

 

[CJ1064]

I have a question for you guys regarding the bass blockers. @smrpilot stated he went without bass blockers and used Polk Audio DB402s for his front speakers. Those speakers have a build in crossover. I just ordered Focal ACX 100s that also have build in crossovers. So do we still need bass blockers with built in crossovers ?

 

[Roll Sound]

I have a question for you guys regarding the bass blockers. @smrpilot stated he went without bass blockers and used Polk Audio DB402s for his front speakers. Those speakers have a build in crossover. I just ordered Focal ACX 100s that also have build in crossovers. So do we still need bass blockers with built in crossovers ?

You don't need to run bass blockers ever.

 

[CJ1064]

You don't need to run bass blockers ever.

After further research (google for a few minutes) I think I agree with this statement as long as you are using higher end speakers with built in crossovers.

 

[Ig_bronco]

I ran into some issues while replacing my 4” dash and rear pods and I thought I would share some of my experience with y’all. In all it’s really worth it to replace them because the sound system is really sounding great now! But my issues come from the rear pods.
First issue is you need to buy after market speakers that are flush mount because any rise from a tweeter or speaker and the pod covers will not go back on. See video here.


Second issue is Ford has some type of regulator that removes almost all bass from the rear pods. See dash bass vs rear pods here.


I also did a factory speaker test vs after market.

I also did a stock dash vs kicker speaker test.

I hope this helps if anyone’s interested in doing the same!

And that's why they have fitment guides and dimensions listed... Also your speaker test is only as good as the device you record on.

 

[Lurker B6G]

I have a question for you guys regarding the bass blockers. @smrpilot stated he went without bass blockers and used Polk Audio DB402s for his front speakers. Those speakers have a build in crossover. I just ordered Focal ACX 100s that also have build in crossovers. So do we still need bass blockers with built in crossovers ?

The "built in crossover" separates the tweeter from the main driver (4" mid/bass) only (very small capacitor between them that limits the low frequencies to the tweeter). This has nothing to do with the use of bass blockers (large in line capacitor) which limits the frequencies to the main (4 inch) driver.

I personally like the use of an line capacitor (bass blocker), and there are good reasons to use them. However, the aftermarket speakers are considerably better at making low frequencies (most are rated at 60-75 hz), and this should be the targeted crossover (-3dB) point.

In order to achieve this goal, I plan to double the capacitance provided by Crutchfield's lowest blockers. This is done by using two sets of 150hz blockers in parallel (place two side by side and twist the ends together). This will create a 75hz, -6dB/octave crossover. This will sound almost exactly like having no bass blockers at all. I have found that this is worth the small effort, and I have a pile of non-polar capacitors so this is not a big deal to me.

To be clear, I would never place a 300hz blocker in line with the replacements. I would use 150hz ONLY IF I knew for certain that I did not want the 4 inchers to help with "fill base".

As noted by others, you do not need to use bass blockers. These smaller drivers have mechanical limitations that will help protect them from low frequency damage. Like most things, decide based on your own values.

 

[snewton]

Can you send me a pic of what yours looks like? You have the 6 speaker bronco, right?

Can you send me a pic of what yours looks like? You have the 6 speaker bronco, right?

So I ordered the JL Audio C1-400x for the front and rear. No problems in the front but the tweeter protruding causes the rear covers to not fit back on. Yes I have the 6 speaker base system. I added the link to the speaker below. At this point I am thinking i may need to return the rear speakers and find one that has a flush mounted tweeter.

JL Audio C1 Series 4" Coaxial Speakers with 0.75" Aluminum Dome Tweeter - Pair (JLC1400X) | Visions Electronics Canada

 

[Roll Sound]

After further research (google for a few minutes) I think I agree with this statement as long as you are using higher end speakers with built in crossovers.

Yeah. Without an amp we are fine. Our head units can't put out enough to blow even so so 4" speakers, coaxial or not.

 

[jh3113]

So I ordered the JL Audio C1-400x for the front and rear. No problems in the front but the tweeter protruding causes the rear covers to not fit back on. Yes I have the 6 speaker base system. I added the link to the speaker below. At this point I am thinking i may need to return the rear speakers and find one that has a flush mounted tweeter.

JL Audio C1 Series 4" Coaxial Speakers with 0.75" Aluminum Dome Tweeter - Pair (JLC1400X) | Visions Electronics Canada

So weird. Mine sits very close, but the cover snaps on no problem.

 

[Squatchn']

The "built in crossover" separates the tweeter from the main driver (4" mid/bass) only (very small capacitor between them that limits the low frequencies to the tweeter). This has nothing to do with the use of bass blockers (large in line capacitor) which limits the frequencies to the main (4 inch) driver.

I personally like the use of an line capacitor (bass blocker), and there are good reasons to use them. However, the aftermarket speakers are considerably better at making low frequencies (most are rated at 60-75 hz), and this should be the targeted crossover (-3dB) point.

In order to achieve this goal, I plan to double the capacitance provided by Crutchfield's lowest blockers. This is done by using two sets of 150hz blockers in parallel (place two side by side and twist the ends together). This will create a 75hz, -6dB/octave crossover. This will sound almost exactly like having no bass blockers at all. I have found that this is worth the small effort, and I have a pile of non-polar capacitors so this is not a big deal to me.

To be clear, I would never place a 300hz blocker in line with the replacements. I would use 150hz ONLY IF I knew for certain that I did not want the 4 inchers to help with "fill base".

As noted by others, you do not need to use bass blockers. These smaller drivers have mechanical limitations that will help protect them from low frequency damage. Like most things, decide based on your own values.

It definitely sounds like you know what you are talking about but my real world installation and observation says differently. I installed 4" kicker DS speakers in the dash without bass blockers and realized the sound would get distorted because they could not handle bass. I was forced to turn down the bass on the head unit equalizer. A week later I installed 300hz bass blockers on these speakers and it sounds a lot cleaner - no distortion. I was also able to turn the bass back up on the head unit equalizer to allow the 6.5" speakers to push out the bass. Unfortunately I quickly realized that those factory 6.5" speakers aren't very good either, so I just ordered JBL GTO629's to replace those. Hopefully I will get those speakers by Friday and be able to install this weekend.

Side note: It's very possible that 150hz bass blockers would have been sufficient to prevent distortion but I do not have extensive knowledge in acoustics and so I thought 300hz would be the safer choice.

 

[Lurker B6G]

It definitely sounds like you know what you are talking about but my real world installation and observation says differently. I installed 4" kicker DS speakers in the dash without bass blockers and realized the sound would get distorted because they could not handle bass. I was forced to turn down the bass on the head unit equalizer. A week later I installed 300hz bass blockers on these speakers and it sounds a lot cleaner - no distortion. I was also able to turn the bass back up on the head unit equalizer to allow the 6.5" speakers to push out the bass. Unfortunately I quickly realized that those factory 6.5" speakers aren't very good either, so I just ordered JBL GTO629's to replace those. Hopefully I will get those speakers by Friday and be able to install this weekend.

Side note: It's very possible that 150hz bass blockers would have been sufficient to prevent distortion but I do not have extensive knowledge in acoustics and so I thought 300hz would be the safer choice.

Sounds reasonable, and based on your real world feedback, I will likely go with the 150hz blockers up front - If I ever get a Bronco. I will be adding a sub anyway, so no point in taxing those little buggers more than they can give.

 

[Badassbronco]

Installed two Polk 4” in the front today without the bass blocker. The stereo no longer sounds like it’s muffled. Much cleaner sound.

Can I expect even better sound once I install the rear speakers tomorrow?

 

[Roll Sound]

Ok. Here is me eating crow. I'm totally wrong. I have a mid package and advocated against using capacitors on any speaker upgrade as not needed. Well WTF. I was not happy with my overall sound at very high dBl levels, it was sounding off. So today I did some revealing tests. First HUGE discovery was that the 150hz bass blockers I had purchased online back in November were garbage. I tested them today, and they didn't work at all!! Duds! So my experience was drawn from a huge dump pile of worthlessness. Our stock amp will run speaker upgrades without blowing them, but check this out- Today I tried good quality capacitors both at 150hz and 300hz, And wow!! The 300hz is definitely the way to go at 4ohm. I was able to crank it up way past 22 without a problem. I did the rear too for shits and giggles. I had the caps. I did some further sonic tests, and I can say for sure it makes a big difference in the front speakers, and overall sound. I also think it helps our amp with the power load. (More power tests to come.) I"M SORRY EVERYONE, my previous posts about not using caps in a mid package speaker upgrade are incorrect. I was really noticing it sounding off while driving around with the top off at higher speeds and higher volume. The weather here has been sooo nice lately, so top off! Cheers everyone. Have a great weekend.

 

[ingalsbeans]

Ok. Here is me eating crow. I'm totally wrong. I have a mid package and advocated against using capacitors on any speaker upgrade as not needed. Well WTF. I was not happy with my overall sound at very high dBl levels, it was sounding off. So today I did some revealing tests. First HUGE discovery was that the 150hz bass blockers I had purchased online back in November were garbage. I tested them today, and they didn't work at all!! Duds! So my experience was drawn from a huge dump pile of worthlessness. Our stock amp will run speaker upgrades without blowing them, but check this out- Today I tried good quality capacitors both at 150hz and 300hz, And wow!! The 300hz is definitely the way to go at 4ohm. I was able to crank it up way past 22 without a problem. I did the rear too for shits and giggles. I had the caps. I did some further sonic tests, and I can say for sure it makes a big difference in the front speakers, and overall sound. I also think it helps our amp with the power load. (More power tests to come.) I"M SORRY EVERYONE, my previous posts about not using caps in a mid package speaker upgrade are incorrect. I was really noticing it sounding off while driving around with the top off at higher speeds and higher volume. The weather here has been sooo nice lately, so top off! Cheers everyone. Have a great weekend.

Lmao I love this whole thread. This shit is so legitimately wholesome, thanks for the update.

My Rockford Fosgate powered sub went in the trunk a week or two ago, after i spent a week or two with just the 4, 4 inch upgraded (polk Db whatever with the 300hz blockers) and it makes all the difference at high speeds and high volumes. Stock system doesn't have the capability to produce a loud, balanced sound at all. Highly recommend a big ole sub with a quick disconnect if you're real stressed about cargo space

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