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Scotteasymoney

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I’ve read some of this thread. Honestly not the entire thing. Has anyone been able to confirm if the harness takes front signal to power rears, or if it sums the channels, or if it just amplified the crappy signal from the head unit? Im trying to decide if I want to power all 6 speakers/4 channels and upgrade the rear pods, or if I want to bi-amp the fronts. I believe the decision changes the harness used, right?
I have read from the beginning. My observation is that the full range signal is pulled in from the front channels and corrected by the dsp of the amp giving the rear channels full range corrected dsp signal. If you find who all has done this so far is amazed at the difference in sound quality. I have not done this yet. I have upgraded my 4 front speakers and waiting on a response if the will have this back in stock with the 500 key this week. If so I will be placing an order.
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bigblueboing

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Yup this is the kit I got. just waiting for a nice day to get it installed. I will have it going to a 8in Kicker all in one and mount that on the tailgate.
Do you know how to use the LC2? What is it for?
 

cmcbronco

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You shouldn’t need the remote wire. Did you push the radio detect button in on the amp I had to or it made a funny sound I don’t remember a popping noise though.
I ended up swapping my speakers around and I like the JL audio sound in the front better then focal. Focal sounds good but man it’s a bright loud speaker they’re a lot louder than the jl audio I’m sure they’d sound great with a sub but too bright for me without one I feel like they over come all the speakers. Going to wait till I get my bass blockers and put the JL audio back up front. I did find out you can’t put the speaker covers on the rear pods with the jl audio installed they just don’t fit all the way on.
I think I have it somewhat figured out. I had previously installed the kicker key 500.1 and a sub and was tapped into the kick panel speakers for high level inputs. Well now that I’ve installed the kicker key 200.4 for the rest of the speakers my signal that I was tied into for the sub is now amplified. Where the sub sounded awesome before now sounds terrible. After speaking to crutchfield they recommended Tapping in before the amplifier for my sub inputs. I reached out to plug n play and he’s sending me some wires that will push into the connector of his harness before the amp. So after I get that all done everything should operate correctly.
 

bigblueboing

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The LC2 is to give you line level inputs to your AMP using RCA cables without needing to tie into the kick panel speakers for speaker level inputs. It also gives you a remote turn on connection for your amp.
Ok so you could use it for any powered sub ? Ty
 

cmcbronco

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Lots of questions... What did you replace the stock speakers with, what made you decide with this combo of bass blockers, did you install an amp, are you happy with the sound? thanks
Any reason not to use 300Hz on both? Are you hearing more out of the Kick Panel speakers with the 600Hz?
For the 4” speakers I used kicker ks series. The kick panels I used Memphis audio mjp6 which is a woofer only. I didn’t want a two way in the kick panels because I felt the highs would get lost down there. I actually thought the factory kick panel speakers were pretty good but when I decided to do the key 200.4 I figured I better replace them as well. The Memphis speakers sound great down there. Nice for the mid bass. With my 8” sub ( once I get it all hooked up) should round out the System nicely.

for the bass blockers.Crutchfield recommended the 600hz for the fronts. I bought both 600 and 300 to see what I liked best. Stuck with the 600 in the dash. When I was getting ready to do the key 200.4 I ended up throwing the 300 in the rear pods because I figured they’d be opened up more with the new amp. Agree the kicker pink noise set up everything sounds amazing. Now I just have to get my sub going right again and I should be all set. Can’t wait to hear it all working together!
 

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Frankie945

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For the 4” speakers I used kicker ks series. The kick panels I used Memphis audio mjp6 which is a woofer only. I didn’t want a two way in the kick panels because I felt the highs would get lost down there. I actually thought the factory kick panel speakers were pretty good but when I decided to do the key 200.4 I figured I better replace them as well. The Memphis speakers sound great down there. Nice for the mid bass. With my 8” sub ( once I get it all hooked up) should round out the System nicely.

for the bass blockers.Crutchfield recommended the 600hz for the fronts. I bought both 600 and 300 to see what I liked best. Stuck with the 600 in the dash. When I was getting ready to do the key 200.4 I ended up throwing the 300 in the rear pods because I figured they’d be opened up more with the new amp. Agree the kicker pink noise set up everything sounds amazing. Now I just have to get my sub going right again and I should be all set. Can’t wait to hear it all working together!
Did you need to fab a ring or purchase one to fit those 6.5” or did they fit without modifications I might go this route too. I seen your sub install thread that was really nice work it looks so clean.
 

cmcbronco

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Did you need to fab a ring or purchase one to fit those 6.5” or did they fit without modifications I might go this route too. I seen your sub install thread that was really nice work it looks so clean.
I used the metra 82-5605 adapters and everything went together smoothly. And thanks I appreciate it. Took a lot of work but I like that it’s hidden and doesn’t take up any cargo space.

Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! EE348540-2998-46D7-A907-17D963017976
 

jh3113

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Got my kit 11 installed today! Everything went well and was super easy. About 45 minutes to install, although I was rushing quite a bit. Sounds phenominal compared to the head unit amp. Pairs well with my JL's.
Rear speakers actually sound like real speakers now, so I'm happy.

4x JL Audio C1-400x
2x JL Audio C1-650x

I still need to calibrate, but the top is off currently, so that will have to wait.

Zip tied currently, but will come back and drill some holes once I get some hardware.
Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! 20220314_181156
 

SCTWNB

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I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.

The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.

I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.

I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.

Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

Anything yet for the B&O System? I installed the Key 500.1 to the existing sub speaker using the high-level input and a new sub speaker and now sounds amazing. Want to do the remaining four speakers with the key 200.4 but don't know the pinouts for the speakers. Was hoping there was a plug-n-play for this. Thanks!
 

TripleB

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Got my kit 11 installed today! Everything went well and was super easy. About 45 minutes to install, although I was rushing quite a bit. Sounds phenominal compared to the head unit amp. Pairs well with my JL's.
Rear speakers actually sound like real speakers now, so I'm happy.

4x JL Audio C1-400x
2x JL Audio C1-650x

I still need to calibrate, but the top is off currently, so that will have to wait.

Zip tied currently, but will come back and drill some holes once I get some hardware.
20220314_181156.jpg
Did you use bass blockers? If so, which ones and location?
 

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67BroncoG1

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Anything yet for the B&O System? I installed the Key 500.1 to the existing sub speaker using the high-level input and a new sub speaker and now sounds amazing. Want to do the remaining four speakers with the key 200.4 but don't know the pinouts for the speakers. Was hoping there was a plug-n-play for this. Thanks!
Get in touch with the guy at @plugnplaykits He will get you sorted out.
 

KeithK

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Clubs
 
Got my kit 11 installed today! Everything went well and was super easy. About 45 minutes to install, although I was rushing quite a bit. Sounds phenominal compared to the head unit amp. Pairs well with my JL's.
Rear speakers actually sound like real speakers now, so I'm happy.

4x JL Audio C1-400x
2x JL Audio C1-650x

I still need to calibrate, but the top is off currently, so that will have to wait.

Zip tied currently, but will come back and drill some holes once I get some hardware.
20220314_181156.jpg
Looks like the harness was long enough to reach under the steering wheel.
 

justabuck

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These are the ones. Crutchfield says they won't fit. The centers do push slightly against the factory covers once installed but I wanted these for their power handling
CF7A8BB2-3E3D-44FE-9F70-3CF36B00052E.jpeg
Does the pushing against the covers hinder the performance in any way? Im a total rookie with sound stuff but this setup seems great after doing a little research
 

BadK22

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300Hz on the front 4" speakers.
If you are using the Kicker KEY, you dont necessarily need the bass blockers as the amp will set the crossover points for you. You just need to ensure the DIP switches are in the correct positions for your particular setup.
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