Upgrading B&O system. Has anyone done this?

[hilmerdm]

Yes, planning on powering everything from the mObridge- thanks for this.

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[jabrax]

Hi folks- I’m about to go down this same route w/ the mObridge and Stinger tailgate sub (bypassing the stock sub)…just wondering how to best connect the mObridge to the sub. I’ve been told that you can splice into the stock B&O wires to the stock sub and run 14 gauge speaker wire to the Stinger sub, Just checking to see if that’s what others have done. Thanks!

I cut the connection out of the stock sub box. I never thought to just order a connector. If I trade the truck in, I will just have to buy someones stock box lol.

I did the connection just as you are planning. See wire connection bottom left.

 

[Tacnav#1]

Howdy

Lurker and first post. I have a 2023 Outer Banks with B&O and will be upgrading the audio system. There are so many posts about this it can be overwhelming so I'm looking for some folks who have upgraded to give me an amen on the following as well as any feedback:

1. Replace the 3 dash speakers with Kicker KS 4"
2. Replace kick plate speakers with Kicker KS 6.5"
3. Either get new pods and upgrade to Kicker 6.75" for rear corners or keep current pods and just put 4" in there. Not sure if buying the larger pods and speakers is worth it??
4. Add Stinger box with 12" sub to tailgate
5. Add Mobridge K2 8.1.1. Amp with B&O Plug-N-Play kit for all speakers listed above
6. Maybe a bass knob

Questions:

I was super impressed with @Ksjrb03's comprehensive thread on upgrading the B&O system. For that he just added an amp for the subwoofer only and replaced the existing speakers. I do wonder about the quality of sound obtained by just replacing the existing dash, kick plate, and pod speakers using the existing B&O amp versus having these new speakers powered by the Mobridge (which would also power the subwoofer). Anyone start off by using factory B&O amp with new speakers and then wound up doing A2B DSP amp to improve sound?

I think @Lowellbarton has done something very similar to what I have listed above? If so can you let us know how it is sounding?

I plan on paying someone to install this including sound proofing/deadening.

Lastly, @mObridge - for the above system, how would I go about tuning? Is there existing software to fine tune kicker brand with teh Mobridge? Would most audio installers know how to do this? With the mobridge, would you still recommend a bass knob for the subwoofer? Would welcome any wisdom/insight/feedback.

I'm running 2 Euphoria 100/4 amps and the Kicker 800.1 for the sub.
1 Euphoria (under pass Seat) - 3 dash Kicker speakers
1 Euphoria (under Drivers Seat) - kick panels and rear pods (6.5" Kickers)
Installed a Axxess DSP to connect everything.
I had it installed at a local shop. Nothing is powered by the head unit.

Replaced the (3) 4" speakers with the Kicker KSC40, The kick panel and Mabett pods have Kicker KSC650 speakers in them.

We put one Euphoria amp under each front seat. and the Kicker 800.1 in the old B&O location on the sub enclosure and replaced the sub with a 8" Kicker in the orginial enclosure.

Hope this helps it was about $4000.00 total

 

[hilmerdm]

Do you plan to use the Mobridge to power the SUB. If so, you can buy one of these and plug it directly into the sub connection.

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-wire-assembly-wpt1456

Follow-up (hopefully simple) question - it looks like this connector has 4 wires out, correct?But it looks like the Stinger/AudioControl sub only have 1 Neg and Positive connection - do I just tie the positive leads and negative leads together and extend to the speaker wire, or am I missing the point of the connector all together?

 

[thenewjs]

Follow-up (hopefully simple) question - it looks like this connector has 4 wires out, correct?But it looks like the Stinger/AudioControl sub only have 1 Neg and Positive connection - do I just tie the positive leads and negative leads together and extend to the speaker wire, or am I missing the point of the connector all together?

Correct you’ll need to combine the two positives and two negatives. See diagram below.

 

[heathw101]

I also went the @mObridge route. If you are willing to invest the cash and want a sleek all in one kit, MoBridge is THE kit. Straightforward install that is all hidden for an OEM look. Fraser at Mobridge can set you up with a custom DSP file for the speakers you use. You can then fine tune the file in the MoBridge software to meet your tastes.

For speakers, I used:

Hertz cx100s in the dash (Corners and Center)
Hertz MP Pro 163.5s in the kick panels
Hertz cx165 in rear mabett pods
Kicker Comp R 8" Sub in factory location

A really key thing to do, in my opinion, is sound deadening. Not only does it improve the sound quality, it significantly cuts down on road noise. I did the following:

1. Lined the entire floor, rear cargo area/fender wells and factory jack storage with Kilmat 80 mil, topped with Siless 4mil liner. For this I removed all the seats and pulled up the carpet liner.
2. Covered the entire factory sub enclosure (inside and out) with Kilmat and stuffed it with polyfill. I did have to modify the box very slightly to install the Kicker sub.
3. Filled the plastic storage compartment in the cargo area (I never use it) with closed cell foam, as well as any empty space in the jack storage area.
4. Lined the inside of the rear Mabett pods, and factory dash speaker mounting locations with Kilmat and Siless and stuffed them with polyfil.
5. Lined the factory kick panel mounting locations with Kilmat, Siless liner and stuffed with Polyfill.
6. Lined the doors with the Soundskinz bronco door kit. I also used some of the extra soundskinz trimmings to line the inside of the actual door panels. You can access this area when you remove the vapor barrier when installing the door kit.

I have also found that the source of your music will drastically improve audio quality, regardless of your system setup. Streaming from Apple Music/Spotify is light years better than Sirius or FM radio.

With all of this, I have the best car stereo system I have ever had. The bass isn't going to shake any windows, but you can certainly feel it from the kick panel mid-bass speakers and the sub. I also have no bass rattles to speak of.

I have not given up any rear storage space with a sub-box, and my tailgate is space is free for my table and fire extinguisher. I could add a second sub in the future, the MoBridge has a separate analog out channel for this, but it is not a necessity. If I did, I would likely use a powered under the seat sub to keep things hidden and space free.

Overall, very happy with the investment.

I just purchased everything you have. Only difference is that I am adding a JL stealthbox. Still happy with the Hertz setup? Would you consider it bright? Thanks!

 

[hilmerdm]

I cut the connection out of the stock sub box. I never thought to just order a connector. If I trade the truck in, I will just have to buy someones stock box lol.

I did the connection just as you are planning. See wire connection bottom left.

So I just installed the mobridge amp/dsp and tested it out with the stock sub and sub connection and was working fine. I clipped the stock wires from the female green connector and used lever connectors to 14 AWG wire (pictured) to wire to the new Stinger (AudioControl) tailgate sub. Now sound from the sub. Any idea what might be wrong? I checked to make sure all +/- connections were accurate. I've heard advice to clip the pink sub wires from the mobridge harness but don't want to mess with that unless I need to. Thanks in advance!

 

[mcon33]

Howdy

Lurker and first post. I have a 2023 Outer Banks with B&O and will be upgrading the audio system. There are so many posts about this it can be overwhelming so I'm looking for some folks who have upgraded to give me an amen on the following as well as any feedback:

1. Replace the 3 dash speakers with Kicker KS 4"
2. Replace kick plate speakers with Kicker KS 6.5"
3. Either get new pods and upgrade to Kicker 6.75" for rear corners or keep current pods and just put 4" in there. Not sure if buying the larger pods and speakers is worth it??
4. Add Stinger box with 12" sub to tailgate
5. Add Mobridge K2 8.1.1. Amp with B&O Plug-N-Play kit for all speakers listed above
6. Maybe a bass knob

Questions:

I was super impressed with @Ksjrb03's comprehensive thread on upgrading the B&O system. For that he just added an amp for the subwoofer only and replaced the existing speakers. I do wonder about the quality of sound obtained by just replacing the existing dash, kick plate, and pod speakers using the existing B&O amp versus having these new speakers powered by the Mobridge (which would also power the subwoofer). Anyone start off by using factory B&O amp with new speakers and then wound up doing A2B DSP amp to improve sound?

I think @Lowellbarton has done something very similar to what I have listed above? If so can you let us know how it is sounding?

I plan on paying someone to install this including sound proofing/deadening.

Lastly, @mObridge - for the above system, how would I go about tuning? Is there existing software to fine tune kicker brand with teh Mobridge? Would most audio installers know how to do this? With the mobridge, would you still recommend a bass knob for the subwoofer? Would welcome any wisdom/insight/feedback.

Similiar setup, love the stinger box. You are going to want that bass knob.

 

[jabrax]

So I just installed the mobridge amp/dsp and tested it out with the stock sub and sub connection and was working fine. I clipped the stock wires from the female green connector and used lever connectors to 14 AWG wire (pictured) to wire to the new Stinger (AudioControl) tailgate sub. Now sound from the sub. Any idea what might be wrong? I checked to make sure all +/- connections were accurate. I've heard advice to clip the pink sub wires from the mobridge harness but don't want to mess with that unless I need to. Thanks in advance!

Apparently, mine came with one of the newer harnesses. I cut mine from the sub box.
For me
Green/Yellow = Positive - I joined together
Black/purp = Negative - I joined together

Sorry truck is in the shop for accident repair so I can get close up
Here is a pick of where I cut it at the sub box
Circle is where I joined with wires from the sub.

 

[jabrax]

Similiar setup, love the stinger box. You are going to want that bass knob.

You dont need a bass knob with the Mobridge, you control the sub volume through the bass setting in the head unit

 

[mObridge]

So I just installed the mobridge amp/dsp and tested it out with the stock sub and sub connection and was working fine. I clipped the stock wires from the female green connector and used lever connectors to 14 AWG wire (pictured) to wire to the new Stinger (AudioControl) tailgate sub. Now sound from the sub. Any idea what might be wrong? I checked to make sure all +/- connections were accurate. I've heard advice to clip the pink sub wires from the mobridge harness but don't want to mess with that unless I need to. Thanks in advance!

I dont know which wire colours are what before it goes into the box. But it does looks like you've joined Negative and positive together. I would try joining the two purples as your negative and then the white/orange and the yellow as your positive.

All channels in our amp have overcurrent protection so they will have just shut off until the next power cycle, you wont have damaged the amp connecting them wrong.

 

[hilmerdm]

I dont know which wire colours are what before it goes into the box. But it does looks like you've joined Negative and positive together. I would try joining the two purples as your negative and then the white/orange and the yellow as your positive.

All channels in our amp have overcurrent protection so they will have just shut off until the next power cycle, you wont have damaged the amp connecting them wrong.

Thanks Fraiser! This is the wiring diagram I was going off of. If that doesn't work was planing on cutting into your harness for the pink wires - if I do that can I just join the 2 pinks and 2 pink/silvers with those lever connectors to a 14 AWG wire?

 

[mObridge]

Thanks Fraiser! This is the wiring diagram I was going off of. If that doesn't work was planing on cutting into your harness for the pink wires - if I do that can I just join the 2 pinks and 2 pink/silvers with those lever connectors to a 14 AWG wire?

Yep exactly, that would be my next suggestion.

 

[Red Five RN]

Awesome. Looking forward to moving forward. Did you opt for a bass knob or not necessary from your standpoint?

Go with a base knob, it’s super helpful for different tracks that are Bass heavy or poorly mixed tracks

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