Rust protection question

[patchymanz]

So I went to a shop to get rust protection applied. They covered the upper control arm and the springs. Now they are probably the experts but to me it seems weird. I am probably totally wrong but let me know ! Thanks!

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[patchymanz]

So I went to a shop to get rust protection applied. They covered the upper control arm and the springs. Now they are probably the experts but to me it seems weird. I am probably totally wrong but let me know ! Thanks!

Whoops put the picture in twice my bad

 

[WuNgUn]

This is why I will do this myself. They have a tendency to spray where it isn't necessarily needed and miss a ton of spots that they should of nailed.
Everyone I know who has this done always has to go back for rework.

 

[patchymanz]

what do you think I should do? Call them back and ask? Go to a dealer?

I did this at Ziebart

This is why I will do this myself. They have a tendency to spray where it isn't necessarily needed and miss a ton of spots that they should of nailed.
Everyone I know who has this done always has to go back for rework.

 

[hellahella]

I'm new at this, but to me that looks like they just took a can of Rust-Oleum and went to town

 

[patchymanz]

Yuuuup cost 400 bucks too. Lesson learned I guess…. Not quite sure what to do about it now lol. So uh for future’s reference, don’t go to ziebart guys!

I'm new at this, but to me that looks like they just took a can of Rust-Oleum and went to town

 

[1970AMCAMX]

In a previous life I rustproofed cars to pay my way through college. I did it on site as an outside contractor at dealerships, If you did not make it obvious (pretty much coat everything) the customers would complain (especially people from up north which is understandable).

 

[hellahella]

In a previous life I rustproofed cars to pay my way through college. I did it on site as an outside contractor at dealerships, If you did not make it obvious (pretty much coat everything) the customers would complain (especially people from up north which is understandable).

What's the process for rust proofing cars?

 

[fzracer484]

I've never done it but you didn't waste your money. The oil film they use gets heated up and misted everywhere. Usually every surface and then they go inside the frame rails. Some companies even drill small holes to get behind bonded panels and then use a black cap to cover the whole making it look oem. It's not black in color, it's just that the black painted parts are now shinier. And you can see a little overspray on the wheel well liner. Some people will buy the product and apply it themselves, some don't want to fiddle with finding the stuff, then doing it, making a mess somewhere, etc....

Now the thing is that to keep it new looking is to do an annual application, which is usually less once you pop for the first one.

I personally have a 11 year old RAM in Massachusetts with shitty brine on the highways as melter, so it soaks in everywhere and starts eating away. I have chosen to clean a lot in winter at wash bay, and paint several times now any rust spots on frame or undercarriage when they show up in spring. My body is what's failing on me now even though most would think it's amazing. It would be perfect anywhere down south, but it's starting to bubble in a few areas on the doors, my rockers I don't mind scuffing and painting, but I don't want to touch the doors.

So check in your door jambs, and see if they drilled any holes and used a plug, usually close to the rubber door seals so they blend.

how do states without any salt use manage? are they required to have winter rated tires? The only reason I can see the justification of salt use is the commercial aspect and truckers needing to safely deliver our goods within all weather conditions and other businesses needing to conduct their business. Otherwise I would love to see only sand used, and sparingly at that.

 

[1970AMCAMX]

What's the process for rust proofing cars?

The company that I worked for never drilled holes, there was plenty of access to the inside of panels through existing holes (drain holes in doors, gaps between panels, etc.) long wands with directional spray tips were used which atomized the waxy rustproofing compound. Drilling holes for access could cause more harm than good (metal shavings, bare metal, etc.)

It would usually take a few days for the rustproofing to stop seeping out of the drain holes after which it would dry to a waxy substance which stayed put.

The car was also undercoated with a black, rubbery, kind of tar like substance. This would dry to the touch but not completely dry out (stayed flexible) this was applied to the complete underbody and depending on the car, the suspension also.

 

[JT58Bronc]

You are fine. The sat would would eventually rust through the paint on the springs and control arms so what was applied will help prevent or eliminate that. When I lived in Massachusetts I would undercoat the frames of my vehicles and prime/paint all raw steel chassis parts. Any overspray of the undercoating that got on the suspension components I would leave and it always worked out fine. Although it was a huge effort I would rinse the chassis (and engine compartment too) after every driving on salted roads with high pressure rinse at the car wash or from my hot water faucet in the garage at the house. Every fall I would do a thorough inspect and manual cleaning of the undercarriage and sand/touch up any rust spots on the body, suspension components or chassis. I waxed the outside paint every 2 months. I never had any rust issues and my vehicles always looked immaculate. I got tired of it, so moved to FL. Now I have to worry about the sun and burning the paint off. It's not perfect anywhere, just have to do what you need to do to keep your vehicles immaculate. Ziebart is a very smart thing to do up north. Down here it's keeping your cars waxed and park in the shade when you can.

 

[fzracer484]

any holes I've ever seen drilled are in the backside of the rockers that are completely sealed off and welded and or seam sealed. The only way in there is to drill a hole. And then going up the inner posts on the a and b pillars. One 2/3 up allowed them to treat every surface both in and out. The small paint loss on the hole rim is supposed to be touched up with paint, or has the product applied as the button is pushed on.

The company that I worked for never drilled holes, there was plenty of access to the inside of panels through existing holes (drain holes in doors, gaps between panels, etc.) long wands with directional spray tips were used which atomized the waxy rustproofing compound. Drilling holes for access could cause more harm than good (metal shavings, bare metal, etc.)

It would usually take a few days for the rustproofing to stop seeping out of the drain holes after which it would dry to a waxy substance which stayed put.

The car was also undercoated with a black, rubbery, kind of tar like substance. This would dry to the touch but not completely dry out (stayed flexible) this was applied to the complete underbody and depending on the car, the suspension also.

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