NVX Tailgate Subwoofer, Amp, and LOC Install

[Notawrangler]

Ok, hoping you guys can give me some advice. I have 2023 bronco that came with the 7 speaker oops we ran out of subs system. I put my somewhat better than factory together over the last 2.5 years. I replaced the dash with 4” Alpine S-S40, installed Mabett rear pods with 6.75 Kickers. Next I purchase a pre-owned kicker key 200.4 that came with a Hoel wiring harness with a direct install kit to the battery. Installed the Kicker 6.75 subwoofer and Fusion amp in the factory enclosed that housed the dummy stuff. Activated it with Forscan, and made the recommended setting changes. I finally replaced the kick panel speakers with Kickers as well. Let me also say that I’m 64 and wear hearing aids, but still like a little bump. (Don’t judge Lol) A lot of this stuff is way over my pay grade. Now the dilemma, I’ve been looking at a tailgate kit from NVX, which comes with their amp and 2 channel LOC.
How will I get signal? I don’t believe the Hoel harness has any taps or connections. I believe I need to connect up by the T harness before amplification. I Also plan on removing the other sub housing and Fusion amp. Also, will I need to get back into Forscan and deactivate the rear sub? This seems like a great deal for $566 but I need to know if it will work with what I already have.
TIA

Sponsored

 

[Brian_B]

Leave the sub activated in Forscan.

Easiest option is to tap into the harness for the Fusion amp (not sure if you are replacing it, or adding to it). But tapping into the front kick panel speakers is another option many people do.

Check these threads out.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/subwoofer-wiring-harness-for-kicker-amp.118805/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...to-add-kicker-key-500-1-and-kicker-sub.79780/

 

[Notawrangler]

Leave the sub activated in Forscan.

Easiest option is to tap into the harness for the Fusion amp (not sure if you are replacing it, or adding to it). But tapping into the front kick panel speakers is another option many people do.

Check these threads out.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/subwoofer-wiring-harness-for-kicker-amp.118805/
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...to-add-kicker-key-500-1-and-kicker-sub.79780/

Thank you for your reply. Yes this NVX kit comes with a 600 amp mono amp and 2 channel active LOC with bass boost and bass roll off. My concern is that tapping into the fusion amp plug, that it is already amplified from the kicker key 200.4, I believe. I’m not sure if that’s an issue or not. That would definitely be the easiest.
This is the kit I’m considering.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...om-Fit-Sub-Package-NVX-PBK-BE-FRD-BRO-G6.html

 

[Brian_B]

Thank you for your reply. Yes this NVX kit comes with a 600 amp mono amp and 2 channel active LOC with bass boost and bass roll off. My concern is that tapping into the fusion amp plug, that it is already amplified from the kicker key 200.4, I believe. I’m not sure if that’s an issue or not. That would definitely be the easiest.
This is the kit I’m considering.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...om-Fit-Sub-Package-NVX-PBK-BE-FRD-BRO-G6.html

The LOC will handle the higher amped voltage no problem - that's exactly what it is there for.

The Kicker 200.4 only does the front and rear channels. The Fusion amp gets it's own input signal from the head unit (you turned that on via Forscan)

You can either tap the input or output of the fusion amp -- better sound quality if you tap the input though

 

[23OBX2.7]

Firstly, that package is way over priced: the amp is 600W @ 1 ohm....try and find a 1 ohm sub anywhere.....the normal bench mark is @ 2ohm and 400W @ 2 ohm is marginal....800-1000 can be obtained for similar price point. That amp is $240 on sonix.

No one quotes 1 ohm it's just bait.

Outstanding Kenwood KAC-9106D integrated high level converter 1000W a 2 ohm for $349 on sonics....can never have too much sub power the more head room the better.

Secondly, search local classified for shallow branded 10+12 Sub w box can usually get for 70% off new price, or whoever has a max 7" deeply discounted loaded 10-12" enclosure heavily discounted (there's not a lot of difference at this level).

Loaded enclosures are easy to mount to tailgate with couple steel Amazon shelf for brackets and some rivnuts.

I can tell you my Kenwood XR1001.1 using high level plus the Hertz MPBX300S2 I got a crazy deal on ( USD 500) is incredible but I would have gone for above if I din already have the XR1001.1 on hand and crazy deal on MPBX, for same price as what you're contemplating.

Also note it takes a sub at least 20-30 hrs break in time and by 100 it's prime.

 

[Notawrangler]

The LOC will handle the higher amped voltage no problem - that's exactly what it is there for.

The Kicker 200.4 only does the front and rear channels. The Fusion amp gets it's own input signal from the head unit (you turned that on via Forscan)

You can either tap the input or output of the fusion amp -- better sound quality if you tap the input though

The LOC will handle the higher amped voltage no problem - that's exactly what it is there for.

The Kicker 200.4 only does the front and rear channels. The Fusion amp gets it's own input signal from the head unit (you turned that on via Forscan)

You can either tap the input or output of the fusion amp -- better sound quality if you tap the input though

The LOC will handle the higher amped voltage no problem - that's exactly what it is there for.

The Kicker 200.4 only does the front and rear channels. The Fusion amp gets it's own input signal from the head unit (you turned that on via Forscan)

You can either tap the input or output of the fusion amp -- better sound quality if you tap the input though

Thank you again, is this what you mean by the input of the fusion amplifier? I took this pick when I had it apart a year ago. Also would you know which wires I will tap into. And will I be using an RCA type ends?
Thanks again.

 

[Brian_B]

Been a while I dont recall exactly what the connector looks like but thats in the right spot.

One of the posts I linked above has the wiring color codes.

 

[NotARubicon]

Thanks again.

I just wanted to say that I like your username.

 

[Notawrangler]

Firstly, that package is way over priced: the amp is 600W @ 1 ohm....try and find a 1 ohm sub anywhere.....the normal bench mark is @ 2ohm and 400W @ 2 ohm is marginal....800-1000 can be obtained for similar price point. That amp is $240 on sonix.

No one quotes 1 ohm it's just bait.

Outstanding Kenwood KAC-9106D integrated high level converter 1000W a 2 ohm for $349 on sonics....can never have too much sub power the more head room the better.

Secondly, search local classified for shallow branded 10+12 Sub w box can usually get for 70% off new price, or whoever has a max 7" deeply discounted loaded 10-12" enclosure heavily discounted (there's not a lot of difference at this level).

Loaded enclosures are easy to mount to tailgate with couple steel Amazon shelf for brackets and some rivnuts.

I can tell you my Kenwood XR1001.1 using high level plus the Hertz MPBX300S2 I got a crazy deal on ( USD 500) is incredible but I would have gone for above if I din already have the XR1001.1 on hand and crazy deal on MPBX, for same price as what you're contemplating.

Also note it takes a sub at least 20-30 hrs break in time and by 100 it's prime.

So, I appreciate your view, however not really sure how it helps me with my upcoming install? Which by the way, I ended up ordering. I truly don’t think that $566 plus tax for a 12” sub w/800 peak and 400W at 2 ohm the tailgate enclosure, an amp that IS rated at 400w at 2ohms, a 2 channel LOC with bass boost. Oh and a complete wiring/install kit. Just like my original post said though, I’m 64 and most of this is way over my head and hearing. Again I appreciate your input, but saving $100+ dollars and having to chase used equipment that has No warranty then attach with shelf brackets? Yeah I’m out Lol. I’ll let you all know how I think it sounds, if I can figure out the wiring. And isn’t that what really matters!

 

[23OBX2.7]

With the Kenwood suggested the wiring is simple (+/- high level) and built in LOC with powerful processing, and no need for bass boost.

I mounted $1K Hertz MPBX300S2 powered by 1,000W @2ohm to my tailgate in 20 min with cheap Amazon heavy gauge sheet metal brackets and brass rivnuts. Sounds amazing with B&O high level signal with high pass set to 20 and low pass set to 60 and about 60% bass boost and 1/3 gain.

This was after tried saving money, for fun trying out cheap sub options, just flushed 300 down the toilet tossed it all in garbage not even resellable haha.

Let's us know how it is after 30 hrs beak in or so. I'm pretty sure I overpay for everything premium brand I buy haha....as do many others I'm sure.

 

[Notawrangler]

HELP!!, This is where I’m at. I get power lights on both the amp and the LOC, first the amp, then the LOC when the radio comes on, but nothing out of the new tailgate mounted sub. I had already activated Forcan about a year ago and was using the small amp that is pictured, which is now removed. I cut off the connector that went into the factory amp. Off of it, I used the positive and negative speaker wires and ran them to the high level input L+ and L- then used jumper wires to go to the R+ and R- on the LOC. Next I used the remote lead from that connector to go to the remote In on the LOC, I also used the 12V wire from that harness to the 12V on the IN on the LOC. That could be my problem??
Back over at the NVX amp I ran my blue/gray sub wires to the 2 sub inputs. Also on the amp, I have my 8AWG directly to the battery and fused. I also ran the other 12V wire to an ignition fuse that goes to REM. And the 8AWG ground to the body about a foot away. I also used this ground for my LOC. I ran the wire for my bass knob up to my drivers seat. Any help would be appreciated. Again the power light on my NVX amp and LOC light up, but nothing out of my new subwoofer. I feel I’ve went backwards after 3 days. I had a little base before.
TIA

 

[Brian_B]

A couple of notes -

Does your LOC have the option to auto-sense inputs for turn on? Might be worth playing with - these types of issues are usually problems with remote turn on, and we know the stock Bronco signal is low voltage

Most folks running a LOC will run a Turn on output from the LOC to the sub amp remote turn on line - rather than running it to ACC or some other signal

You mentioned the ground for the sub amp was short and located nearby —- just a note that the tailgate itself is a horrible ground. You want to use a ground spot by one of the wheel wells (like where the stock enclosure is)

 

[Notawrangler]

Day 5, ready to shoot myself. Not sure what I’m doing wrong, however I have now decided to try to get a signal from the drivers side kick panel speaker. Please see the pic and let me know which wires to tap into. I don’t understand why the power lights on both my amp and LOC, lit up but now sound from the new sub. This is what I have now. On the left side of my amp I now have the blue and gray wires coming from my sub. I have my my fused 8AwG directly to the battery, I am also running a jumper over to my LOC’S 12v which I put an inline fuse on. Next I ran a jumper wire from my amps REM to the LOC’s REM OUT. Then to finish that side an 8AWG ground to the floor of the Bronco. I also ran the LOC’s GND to this as well. On the right side of the Amp I have my RCA connections running over to the LOC and connected to the R & L Outputs. Then my remote to my bass knob. After not seeming to get a signal from the factory amp connector , which I cut and was previously running a 6.75 Kicker sub on. I have now ran wires up to the drivers side kick panel. I ran out of daylight again.

Any advice and help would be appreciated.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Sorry to hear....too complicated IMO my suggestion is return it all, get amp with integrated LOC, with signal auto turn on and whatever shallow sub you can get a deal on, MTI amp rack, and 2 hr later youre golden.

Alternatively try a wavetek LOC ive hears they are good.

It should be plug and play as it was for keenwood using ground right rear side but any stipped floor pan should be good.

 

[Notawrangler]

A couple of notes -

Does your LOC have the option to auto-sense inputs for turn on? Might be worth playing with - these types of issues are usually problems with remote turn on, and we know the stock Bronco signal is low voltage

Most folks running a LOC will run a Turn on output from the LOC to the sub amp remote turn on line - rather than running it to ACC or some other signal

You mentioned the ground for the sub amp was short and located nearby —- just a note that the tailgate itself is a horrible ground. You want to use a ground spot by one of the wheel wells (like where the stock enclosure is)

Hey Brian,
Got it working last Thursday, after NVX/Sonic Tech finally called me back after 4 days. Turns out they shipped me a unit that had one of the 2 subwoofer wires in the upper left inside corner of the housing not hooked up. You can imagine how upset I was. So now my question is should I get back back into forscan and change the rear speakers to just speaker plus tweeter? Since I now longer need it to power the small kicker I had in the factory housing? Let me know what you and others think. I have Mabett pods with 6.75 KS series Kickers in them. Oh buy the way it thumps now. L9l

Sponsored