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New Tool Makes Rear Speaker Pod Replacement Easy!

Cordycord

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I purchased a set of stubby Torx bits on Amazon. They fit into a 12mmm ratchet and make hard-to-reach Torx extraction easy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082LN5TXN?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

Ford Bronco New Tool Makes Rear Speaker Pod Replacement Easy! Mabett+Memphis+polyfill+soundmat
Ford Bronco New Tool Makes Rear Speaker Pod Replacement Easy! IMG_5060
Ford Bronco New Tool Makes Rear Speaker Pod Replacement Easy! IMG_5056
Ford Bronco New Tool Makes Rear Speaker Pod Replacement Easy! IMG_5054
Ford Bronco New Tool Makes Rear Speaker Pod Replacement Easy! IMG_5059



I chose these Memphis coaxial speakers for the back, and even without Forscan they already sound better

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BLYMPH1R?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

I chose the Mabett enclosures, mainly on price. They look and fit fine. I added butyl sound deadener (also Amazon) and polyfill to cut down on vibration and resonance.

It turns out that installing the bottom bolt all the way, along with the clip, helped with the installation. The top screws are blind so it's a bit of a struggle, but the whole assembly only took about 30 minutes.

Here's the link to the sound deadening mat:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XMF3KK5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

Last, I used solder shrink to make the wiring connection. My parts weren't from Amazon, but here's a link. There are multiple sizes for the different sizes of wiring, and as long as they're not in an environment where they move or are put in strain, they are my "go to".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BJ7FY8X?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Hope this was helpful. ;)
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Rspayde

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Alternatively the top comes off to make the fasteners not so hard to reach. I have a soft top though so much easier for me then the hard top crowd.
 

vrtical

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Alternatively the top comes off to make the fasteners not so hard to reach. I have a soft top though so much easier for me then the hard top crowd.
For sure taking the top off makes it a non issue.
 
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Cordycord

Cordycord

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Alternatively the top comes off to make the fasteners not so hard to reach. I have a soft top though so much easier for me then the hard top crowd.
Listen dude, it's WINTER and no one here in Southern California takes their top off when it gets under 70 degrees. ;)

Honestly though, these are great tools that I've used on other projects...very handy.
 

SlowTrak

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Something like this below is a little more low profile and cheaper at only $10. I had purchased one for something else and remembered I had it in the tool box when I was tucking the rear dash cam wire. I took the rear pod out to tuck its wire since it was sticking out (wouldn't have been seen unless you stuck your face in there, but I am OCD and was already in the area anyway, haha).

https://www.amazon.com/screwdriver-...a3c-9368-26386d18fd1e&pd_rd_i=B0CRQ9JRT5&th=1
 

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thesocalexplorer

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Listen dude, it's WINTER and no one here in Southern California takes their top off when it gets under 70 degrees. ;)

Honestly though, these are great tools that I've used on other projects...very handy.
So true, anything below 60*F is down jacket weather out here :LOL:
 

omg_bbq

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What's the general consensus on speakers that go into the new larger pods in the rear? I haven't checked in since the early days before new large pods were available.

Current setup is stock amplification non B&O system with upgraded front dash and rear speakers, OEM front floor speakers. OEM size all around. No sub of any kind.
 
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Cordycord

Cordycord

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What's the general consensus on speakers that go into the new larger pods in the rear? I haven't checked in since the early days before new large pods were available.

Current setup is stock amplification non B&O system with upgraded front dash and rear speakers, OEM front floor speakers. OEM size all around. No sub of any kind.
Non-B&O seven speaker system.

My plan is Kicker 200.4 amp, and setting up as a BI-AMP for the four front speakers. So that means the Kicker 200.4 will power the front four speakers while the head unit amp will take care of the rear two speakers. I will upgrade the woofer after taking stock of the sound after the upgrade. Plenty of power to go around.

Alpine S2-S40 4" dash speakers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C74WLC74?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1

I'm running Memphis 6.5" in the kick panel but I couldn't find them on Amazon. I was helped quite a bit with my choices by AZCoyote, who showed me what bi-amping is, and I completely buy into this type of setup for the Bronco.
 
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HPRPack

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I just upgraded everything in my '23 Badlands with non-B&O and sub-delete. I did have the fake sub and amplifier, so that helped me out quite a bit. I went with Hertz Cento line all around (4" in the dash, 6.5" mid-bass in the kicks, SSV pods with 6.5" coaxes), added a Musway M6pro (6-channel amp & 10-channel DSP) for all of the cabin speakers and added a Kicker Key 500.1 to run a RF Punch 8" sub that I had laying around. I did it in phases, speakers first and then the amps & sub, but you could do it all in a full day if you plan well in advance and know where you are going to place things. The change in the sound is tremendous and was well worth the time to do it.
 

KABQ

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