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M-9100-BR aux switch kit

TFroehner

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Has anyone tried to install this ford performance aux switch kit? Seems like it would be a little easier than swapping out all the necessary components to put in an original one. Four switches might be enough for me to work with.
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RustysBronco

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I've heard of these kits out there now - very similar to OEM on Amazon. I don't have any experience with these personally, but if I were in your shoes, I'd rather go the $250-300 route and get all switches with the 6 aux kit than the $500 Ford Performance kit that only gets you 4 switches.

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AzGrayHeritage

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I think I'm gonna go OEM with Ford perf. Kie just ha r to wait for black Friday
 
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I've heard of these kits out there now - very similar to OEM on Amazon. I don't have any experience with these personally, but if I were in your shoes, I'd rather go the $250-300 route and get all switches with the 6 aux kit than the $500 Ford Performance kit that only gets you 4 switches.

https://amzn.to/46VslQU
https://amzn.to/4om8L67
Rusty, I have followed your aux switch posts from the beginning. I’m almost convinced that ordering ford parts to get 6 switches is the direction that I am leaning. Money difference and time is not major consideration as I am a retired mechanical engineer. Is there any real downside to going with the documented oem method?
 

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RustysBronco

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Rusty, I have followed your aux switch posts from the beginning. I’m almost convinced that ordering ford parts to get 6 switches is the direction that I am leaning. Money difference and time is not major consideration as I am a retired mechanical engineer. Is there any real downside to going with the documented oem method?
Cost and technical skill set required for a true OEM retrofit are really the only downsides. That's really it.

Its still the way I would go, just knowing the wiring is mostly there from the factory. But for those less inclined to tear into the electrical system, the Amazon plug and play gives you that OEM style without opening a can of worms.
 

granieaj

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So, I'm confused about this. The site says, "does not fit 2025 bronco" but then in the description it states fits years 2021 - 2026
 

granieaj

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Cost and technical skill set required for a true OEM retrofit are really the only downsides. That's really it.

Its still the way I would go, just knowing the wiring is mostly there from the factory. But for those less inclined to tear into the electrical system, the Amazon plug and play gives you that OEM style without opening a can of worms.
What's more "plug and play" about the Amazon ones vs the OEM item from Ford?
 

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What's more "plug and play" about the Amazon ones vs the OEM item from Ford?
If you did not get the 6-switch Aux Switch set from the factory:

You have to change your fuse box , run a new wiring harness, remove a bit of trim, change the overhead panel out, and do some programming, which requires FDRS.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...talled-diy-writeup-instructions-photos.35388/

If you don't already have it, have access to it, or use it for other purposes, the FDRS ODB2 adapter and software licenes will cost as much, or more, than many aftermarket switches -- just for the software changes alone.

Amazon, the Ford Performance kit, and most other aftermarkets - you mount a box under the hood, you hook the box up to your battery and you run a wiring harness to the switch panel in the cab. Trim panel removal is optional, depending on how you run the wire and mount the switch panel. No programming required. You may get asked to tap a fuse with an add-a-tap to get ACC power, depending on installation, but don't have to replace the entire fuse box to do that.
 
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granieaj

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Ah, I see. That is a bit extensive, especially the programming. I did see the Ford performance kit and it appears near OEM but also see it has the box for under the hood. I appreciate the detail here.
 

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If you did not get the 6-switch Aux Switch set from the factory:

You have to change your fuse box , run a new wiring harness, remove a bit of trim, change the overhead panel out, and do some programming, which requires FDRS.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...talled-diy-writeup-instructions-photos.35388/

If you don't already have it, have access to it, or use it for other purposes, the FDRS ODB2 adapter and software licenes will cost as much, or more, than many aftermarket switches -- just for the software changes alone.

Amazon, the Ford Performance kit, and most other aftermarkets - you mount a box under the hood, you hook the box up to your battery and you run a wiring harness to the switch panel in the cab. Trim panel removal is optional, depending on how you run the wire and mount the switch panel. No programming required. You may get asked to tap a fuse with an add-a-tap to get ACC power, depending on installation, but don't have to replace the entire fuse box to do that.
So I got the Ford performance kit and installed it today. I'm running into an issue where the switches stay illuminated when on even if the vehicle is off. I've gone over the instructions a hundred times and can't figure out where I went wrong. I don't have anything connected yet but was going to test the leads to see if they have power or if it's merely an issue with illumination to the switch. Have any recommendations?
 

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So I got the Ford performance kit and installed it today. I'm running into an issue where the switches stay illuminated when on even if the vehicle is off. I've gone over the instructions a hundred times and can't figure out where I went wrong. I don't have anything connected yet but was going to test the leads to see if they have power or if it's merely an issue with illumination to the switch. Have any recommendations?
Usually there is a small either auxiliary, illumination, or control line that takes a smaller 12v connection - not sure what it’s called on this package. Wire that to an add-a-tap to an ACC enabled fuse so that it only has power when the ACC is.
 

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Ya. This had me exchange a pin in the C2280B connection. New harness to that connector, then the old female pin to a new connector joined with the new male. Pin 45, which I believe is the backlight for the overhead console, which should be ignition controlled. Instructions did not call for or provide something like an add a tap. My undeyis that in the installed configuration that it should not receive power when the ignition is off. I'll call the tech line tomorrow to make sure.
 

AlienHunter

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Cost and technical skill set required for a true OEM retrofit are really the only downsides. That's really it.

Its still the way I would go, just knowing the wiring is mostly there from the factory. But for those less inclined to tear into the electrical system, the Amazon plug and play gives you that OEM style without opening a can of worms.
I have already posted this topic of the six switch install Middleton Motorsports posted on YouTube. You don’t have to tear into the electrical system, , just swap out OEM wiring harnesses.
TC Customs in Bessemer, Al will also do it for you. At least what the YouTube video shows, but at a considerable cost. I’m sure there are a lot of Ford dealership accessories departments will do the install also. I always first ask what their hourly rate at the dealership is because a lot of times it depends on the dealership locations.
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