HELP! 2-Door Rear Cargo Panel Removal- Seats Need Removal??

[Mscdman]

Well, after watching tons of videos on YouTube and reading tons of posts, I thought this was going to be pretty straightforward. Remove the floor with the four bolts remove the door sill then basically takeoff the interior rear panel for the subwoofer. However, I have a two door and it looks like you can’t remove the panel without removing the seats. Is this the way it has to work? If so, I’m screwed.

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[Rydfree]

Well, after watching tons of videos on YouTube and reading tons of posts, I thought this was going to be pretty straightforward. Remove the floor with the four bolts remove the door sill then basically takeoff the interior rear panel for the subwoofer. However, I have a two door and it looks like you can’t remove the panel without removing the seats. Is this the way it has to work? If so, I’m screwed.

You do not have to remove the seats. I'll try to post a pic of the panel backside so you know where the clips are .

 

[talbot]

the panel can definitely come out without removing the seats

 

[615_Bronco]

Seats don’t have to come out for quarter trim removal on either side.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/2dr-rear-interior-quarter-panel-removal-instructions.68615/

 

[Rydfree]

Well, after watching tons of videos on YouTube and reading tons of posts, I thought this was going to be pretty straightforward. Remove the floor with the four bolts remove the door sill then basically takeoff the interior rear panel for the subwoofer. However, I have a two door and it looks like you can’t remove the panel without removing the seats. Is this the way it has to work? If so, I’m screwed.

Hopefully you can get a good idea of where to pull from this pic. You will most likely pull the fragile plastic bracket apart that holds two clips at the roll bar area but JB weld fixes it stronger than it was from the factory. Just fold the rear seat down completely and it will be easier.

 

[Brian_B]

Great pics @Rydfree

This is the clip I always have the most trouble with, along with it's mate along the top that also has a lot of plastic rivets next to it.

The problem are those little plastic rivets that are on either side of that support the clip is in. It's easy to pop those little melted plastic rivets out, and then you gotta get a plastic welder (or some good glue) to seat them back in.

So that would be my tip on the quarter panel removal. I have no idea why Ford did this, it's horrible. You can certainly get it out without destroying it, but it's not a given if you go in there with banana hands like I have.

 

[Rydfree]

Great pics @Rydfree

This is the clip I always have the most trouble with, along with it's mate along the top that also has a lot of plastic rivets next to it.

The problem are those little plastic rivets that are on either side of that support the clip is in. It's easy to pop those little melted plastic rivets out, and then you gotta get a plastic welder (or some good glue) to seat them back in.

So that would be my tip on the quarter panel removal. I have no idea why Ford did this, it's horrible. You can certainly get it out without destroying it, but it's not a given if you go in there with banana hands like I have.

Yeah that was the 1st place I pulled on when I installed my subwoofer and immediately heard the snap of it breaking loose . I drilled the rivet holes out larger , roughed up the back and the door panel and used the quick set JB weld. I had to remove it again the other day to find the wire going to the upfitter switches (Thanks Ford for putting it where we have to take that qtr panel off ). The JB weld held fine and it was a piece of cake this go around.

 

[Mscdman]

I managed to get it back together without casualties. Took me 4 hours but nothing broke. Had one blue clip that got bent but I had replacements.

Interestingly, I had none of those 2-piece white Xmas tree clips. Mine were one piece.

My observations during this install process:

1) the kicker 6.75 sub for some reason when I was securing it to the factory sub box 2 of the screws would not cinch up. No idea why. Hoping my bead of silicon holds it down okay. Don’t hear any rattles…yet…

2) I put sound deadening inside the sub box and on the fender side but forgot to put it on the back of the panel. Not going back in there so hope it is okay.

3) everything went back 99.5% the way it was. I don’t like how the panels join up near the seatbelt but it is clipped down.

4) The OEM Ford white Xmas tree clips are insanely priced $11.25 a piece!!! I used the Amazon replacement and it was fine.

5) struggled a bit with Forscan. The ACM module I updated (I saved a backup before changes) was only listed as “as built”. That’s the one I modified. There was no other ACM plain listed…not sure if that’s correct.

6) I used a 20 inch metal panel
Removal tool from Amazon and got out that tough clip out without breaking the plastic welds.

7) on the 2-door you DO NOT need to remove the floor. The panel sort of “floats above it”. I removed it anyway to add dynamat.

8) I don’t like how the sub box bottom plaster brackets cinch against the mount point. I didn’t want to crazy over tighten. I hope this stays. Wondering if I should have used lock tite on the sub box bolts . Oh well. It’s all back together now and I don’t want to take apart

all In all I love the sound!! Added 6.5 Mabett w kickers. And the fusion amp and 6.75 sub. It sounds night and day diff. Turned off EQ and opened the rear speakers.

my inly

 

[Brian_B]

Interestingly, I had none of those 2-piece white Xmas tree clips. Mine were one piece.

These got changed out I think mid-2023 to the single piece clip as part of a anti-rattle TSB

 

[Brian_B]

struggled a bit with Forscan. The ACM module I updated (I saved a backup before changes) was only listed as “as built

This is normal.

“As built” you have to use the hex codes and manually key in values. The just plain regular named ones are the “easy mode” ones where the setting is listed in plain text with drop down values you can select from —- where they guy at Forscan has already pre-programmed the hex codes and stuff for you.

All the detected ECMs will have an “as built” to allow you to tinker. Only the ones with pre-programmed stuff will have an easy mode

 

[Brian_B]

the kicker 6.75 sub for some reason when I was securing it to the factory sub box 2 of the screws would not cinch up. No idea why

Plastic is very thin and strips out easily with low torque. You could use speed clips, but it takes some dremeling to get them in.

Unless you are absolutely pounding the sub, it will probably be just fine with the silicone tho

 

[Mscdman]

Plastic is very thin and strips out easily with low torque. You could use speed clips, but it takes some dremeling to get them in.

Unless you are absolutely pounding the sub, it will probably be just fine with the silicone tho

Thanks Brian. Love the sound.

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