Compressor questions - pressure switch, tank locations

[ontheheel]

Looking at putting an ARB twin in my Bronco. Would like to also mount an air tank.
questions related to this:

1) Where are Good locations for mounting the tank if I do an under hood mount for the compressor? It looks like I could fit a small tank under the body, just forward of the rear diff on the driver side, immediately aft of the frame crossmember that’s right there. Anyone else do this? I’m curious about clearance at full compression on the driver’s side of the rear axle.

2) Does the ARB twin have a built in pressure switch? I’ve got a Viair on my Jeep TJ and it requires an external pressure switch on the tank and wired to the compressor. I just haven’t seen anything like that on the ARB side.

3) I see a lot of people running ARB compressors without manifolds, but ARB says you must use a manifold, even for inflation-only applications. What’s the deal with that?

pic is of proposed mounting location for tank. You can see the top of the rear diff in the bottom left corner, and the view is looking toward the front. I would mount to the ribbed area of the body floor in the center of the image

Thanks y’all

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[ScLeCo]

I'd go with a Viair twin/tank. They have kits with components that you know will work together. I was looking at the 20185.
As for mounting the tank that spot looks spot on.

 

[MJ12]

Looking at putting an ARB twin in my Bronco. Would like to also mount an air tank.
questions related to this:

1) Where are Good locations for mounting the tank if I do an under hood mount for the compressor? It looks like I could fit a small tank under the body, just forward of the rear diff on the driver side, immediately aft of the frame crossmember that’s right there. Anyone else do this? I’m curious about clearance at full compression on the driver’s side of the rear axle.

2) Does the ARB twin have a built in pressure switch? I’ve got a Viair on my Jeep TJ and it requires an external pressure switch on the tank and wired to the compressor. I just haven’t seen anything like that on the ARB side.

3) I see a lot of people running ARB compressors without manifolds, but ARB says you must use a manifold, even for inflation-only applications. What’s the deal with that?

pic is of proposed mounting location for tank. You can see the top of the rear diff in the bottom left corner, and the view is looking toward the front. I would mount to the ribbed area of the body floor in the center of the image

Thanks y’all

I am running the ARB twin without the manifold and without a tank using the indeflate 4 and it works just fine. Yes on the pressure switch if its not flowing air and I flip the switch it turns on for about 2 seconds then turns itself off.

 

[ontheheel]

I am running the ARB twin without the manifold and without a tank using the indeflate 4 and it works just fine. Yes on the pressure switch if its not flowing air and I flip the switch it turns on for about 2 seconds then turns itself off.

Do you know at what pressure it shuts off, or if it’s adjustable?

 

[MJ12]

I don't. I have called ARB USA costumer service with some questions on a different product in the past and they were pretty helpful. Try giving them a call they might have those specs.

 

[AttackGuy64]

I am planning on getting rid of the factory muffler for a cat back system with an inline, smaller muffler that is mounted between the frame rails. With the factory muffler space freed up, I am going to use the Metalcloak muffler skid plate to mount a 3 gallon aluminum tank and compressor.

With regard to wiring up a pressure switch, I have examined this myself and believe that the best course would be from UPFITTER SWITCH --> PRESSURE SWITCH --> RELAY --> COMPRESSOR for any that doesn't have a self contained pressure switch. I have heard from others that a 150 psi pressure switch on a dual compressor system is good enough to use air tools. Good luck!

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Looking at putting an ARB twin in my Bronco. Would like to also mount an air tank.
questions related to this:

1) Where are Good locations for mounting the tank if I do an under hood mount for the compressor? It looks like I could fit a small tank under the body, just forward of the rear diff on the driver side, immediately aft of the frame crossmember that’s right there. Anyone else do this? I’m curious about clearance at full compression on the driver’s side of the rear axle.

2) Does the ARB twin have a built in pressure switch? I’ve got a Viair on my Jeep TJ and it requires an external pressure switch on the tank and wired to the compressor. I just haven’t seen anything like that on the ARB side.

3) I see a lot of people running ARB compressors without manifolds, but ARB says you must use a manifold, even for inflation-only applications. What’s the deal with that?

pic is of proposed mounting location for tank. You can see the top of the rear diff in the bottom left corner, and the view is looking toward the front. I would mount to the ribbed area of the body floor in the center of the image

Thanks y’all

The ARB Twin has a built in pressure switch. When it reaches pressure it turns itself off. The ARB Single has one as well but it's NOT pre-installed. YOU Have to install it and it REQUIRES additional adapters (which are found in the pump up kit). But the Twin out of the box is ready to go.

So ARB likes to recommend a manifold because the air coming out of the compressor gets hot. However they've recently upgraded their hoses so they are reinforced now. I've never had an issue personally, especially with the new reinforced hoses. A manifold can help but is not required in my opinion IF running the newer hoses (which is what we sell these days and have sold since the beginning of the year).

Another option if you don't want to mess with a manifold, is to go with our switch/coupler kit. It puts a switch next to the compressor and also extens the hose about .5m away. So the air cools off in the first .5m (which is basically what a manifold does, where your hose isn't plugged directly into the compressor).

I don't run one and MOST of our customers don't run one. We've had a few people have burst hoses but they all ran the FIRST version of the arb hoses, which were not reinforced (again the new hoses we sell ARE reinforced).

For a tank... wherever you can find a spot. If you are running a tank then you are not going to need a manifold since you're air will go TO the tank. You'll want T most likely somewhere so that you can connect your hose but again that'll be off a line first.

Basically you could use our switch kit and instead of going directly to the coupler off our included .5m hose, you go to a T first. One side goes to the coupler in our switch panel and then the other side goes down to your tank to store air. Mounting it is up to you and finding a spot that you can fit it in. we do sell the ARB tanks as well


Our compressor kit: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/kr-off-road-air-compressor-engine-bay-kit-for-2021-ford-bronco/

Our switch/coupler panel: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/kr-off...-coupler-switch-bracket-for-2021-ford-bronco/

ARB Tank: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/arb-1-gallon-air-tank-4-ports/

Fittings/Hoses: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/truck-accessories/air-compressors-air-systems/fittings-hoses/

 

[ArizonaGreg]

Agree with MJ12. I also have an ARB dual without a tank/manifold. There is no need for a tank unless you are running air-lockers. Also, no need for the extra expense of an under-hood switch if you have AUX switches. Simply wire the compressor up to one of those switches.

 

[BRBlue]

Agree with MJ12. I also have an ARB dual without a tank/manifold. There is no need for a tank unless you are running air-lockers. Also, no need for the extra expense of an under-hood switch if you have AUX switches. Simply wire the compressor up to one of those switches.

That orange ARB line will eventually fail if direct connected to the compressor without a manifold. Ask me how I know. Way too much heat is generated at that coupling.

EDIT: Just saw @4x4TruckLEDs.com post above about the new vs. old ARB hose. I’m one of the unlucky ones with the original hose I guess. Maybe others will have better luck.

 

[Jamesorriv]

@4x4TruckLEDs.com do you know how to differentiate the old vs new hose? Yesterday, I just repaired my ARB hose for the second time. Definitely bursting from the heat. I bought mine Nov 2022.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

@4x4TruckLEDs.com do you know how to differentiate the old vs new hose? Yesterday, I just repaired my ARB hose for the second time. Definitely bursting from the heat. I bought mine Nov 2022.

That's most likely the original one. I believe we started shipping the new version in January of 2023 or so.

NEW HOSE

OLD HOSE

The new one has writing on the sides. The new box also has "V2" on the label

 

[Johnny Mo]

Here's how I did mine.

ARB Twin
DV8 Offroad Storage Tray
2 Gallon RideTech Aluminum Tank
Custom Brackets using Peterson oil tank brackets 6" (they need to be made slightly bigger to fit the ride tech
Remote Air Chuck - custom bracket made from aluminum flat bar
Hadley Big Bully Airhorn
custom relay setup to shut down air system and revert to factory horns
1/0 power feed to rear distribution block (utilized this to also power up Kicker Key 500.1)
8ga ground run to rear for grounding all rear equipment

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JK9DzkcMWQaB368UA

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