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Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts

GW48

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I saw some follks asking for ideas on this type of thing when I went looking, so decided to post my solution.

Sometimes a higher tie down point is handy. The bolts holding the rear shell are an obvious place to put them. I checked out various Bronco-marketed solutions, but felt most had (possible) problems, or were just too much money for the purpose.

I chose a basic D-ring from Amazon for a test to see how well the low-budget option would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Anchors-Trailer-Warehouse-Control-Surface/dp/B09YM1JNKJ

(Fig. 1) The mounting hole needed to be drilled out a little -- 5/16" drill bit. Pinning them against a backstop stops them from spinning.

There's four bolts each side. The rear-most one isn't that useful, since a strap would end up wrapped around the roll bars, so I decided to test the two closest to the front.

(Fig. 2) The one closest to the front needed some tweaking. In mine, there's a bit of vertical support strut/flange really close to the bolt. Not enough room for the D-ring mounting plate to fit.

I shaved it with a sharp chisel.

(Fig 3.) Take the bolt out, put the D-ring in, and mark a "stop cut" (as the wood workers call it).

(Fig. 4) Then shave tiny slices off the top. It cuts very easily (pretty much turns to powder). Add to the stop cut after each few shaves. Keep going until flush. (Fig. 5)

(Fig. 6) I angled this one a little assuming it was usually going somewhere diagonal, but I cut the flange so it could be perpendicular.

(Fig 7.) Installed on the left side.

So far they don't rattle on my local rough streets, and when there's a load, they'll be under tension anyway. If they do rattle, I figure squirt some white glue in the hinge, let it dry, wiggle it loose, and that should fill up the voids.

Probably too long of a post for a simple thing, but it gave me something to do :)

Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 1-tie-down-drill-out



Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 2-tie-down-flange-original
Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 3-tie-down-flange-mark
Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 4-tie-down-flange-shave
Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 5-tie-down-flange-flush
Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 6-tie-down-flange-done
Ford Bronco Budget tie downs on the rear shell bolts 7-tie-down-installed
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Rydfree

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dangerfoot

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GW48

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So, here's my question about those -- You can't predict the angle at which the top part ends up. Ideally, you'd want them perpendicular to side of the vehicle (along 9-3 o'clock if 12 is the front of the vehicle). But if it doesn't rotate far enough, then ends up a little cock-eyed, I'd think that a tight strap would eventually pull the bolt a little loose.

So, when I inevitably started to overthink that one, I went for the d-ring.

If you see that just doesn't end up happening, other folks might like to know.
 

Rydfree

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So, here's my question about those -- You can't predict the angle at which the top part ends up. Ideally, you'd want them perpendicular to side of the vehicle (along 9-3 o'clock if 12 is the front of the vehicle). But if it doesn't rotate far enough, then ends up a little cock-eyed, I'd think that a tight strap would eventually pull the bolt a little loose.

So, when I inevitably started to overthink that one, I went for the d-ring.

If you see that just doesn't end up happening, other folks might like to know.
I've had no issues and have strapped things pretty tight. You really do not want to crank down on the Top shell too much anyway. That plastic lip is pretty thin material and starts to distort if you have ever noticed. I find that I can choose what angle I want the ring to be at during the last full turn and it stills holds the top more than adequately .
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