Are the doors that difficult?

[Lindy08]

I've got both of my doors beat up to hell.(serious paint gouges) I've tried watching all the youtube videos. I tried the alignment tool, I even marked the top square pegs with a paint pen. What am I doing wrong? I had a JK and those doors were considerably easier to install.(granted heavier) My issue seems to be I can get the bottom on the alignment tool but can not get the top one to fit. I realize they are square-ish, hence the paint pen to try and help me see where to line them up. These doors are a huge pain in my ass. If anybody has any tips, I'm all ears.

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[710-oil-614]

I had issues getting my rear drivers door off the first time. It was "sticky" if you will and I couldn't apply enough progressive force to gently remove it so it popped up and I bumped some metal but lucky no damage.

I had an issue with my driver's door one time when re-installing. Put the other 3 on in about 3 minutes. Got to the drivers side and simply could not get it to drop in on the top.

Got frustrated. Put the door down, cracked a beer, sat in the basement to cool down.

Came back out and it dropped right in.

 

[LSU Jonno]

If you are short (like me) and have a squatched bronco (like me) I think it makes the door install a 2 person job. I also got a couple paint gouges the first time I tried to re-install the doors by myself...at night (because I'm a dumbass).

Removal is pretty easy regardless.

 

[thatspecialbeat]

It's awkward for sure.

The first time didn't go well. Since then I literally do a quick walkthrough first without the door. I make sure the space is wide open (first time wife and kid were running around) and imagine the angles. It isn't intuitive.

Then just go very slow. Being able to lift the door isn't enough. You have to be able to hold it there without bracing on anything and move very slowly.

And bright light helps.

But overall, no trick I am aware of.

 

[710-oil-614]

I'm 6'1 with spaghetti noodles for arms so I grab where it says lift and then reach my free hand around and grab the edge and outside of the door. For me this gives me the most stability to hold the door level and make minor adjustments to get it in.

Then it's just very gently bringing the door close to the bottom alignment pin, as I'm bringing it in I stop and make sure that I am level and if not, I raise my hand that is on the edge of the door/outside to make sure I am good on top.

So basically, I use the alignment pin on the bottom as my initial reference point until I am about 3-5 inches away from it. Then I pause and switch to the top for my reference point, make adjustments, and attempt to drop it while focusing on the top.

If you get it to sit on the top and the bottom alignment pin, I would grab a bolt and hand tighten it on the top. For me, doing this usually caused the door to fully seat or "drop" about another half inch into place. Then you can remove the alignment pin, add the other bolt, and tighten both.

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