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I did an oil change because of the 6 months. Despite the low miles it was pretty dark. Not black but dark. I only know how to do a full reset. There is some chance I forgot to reset but I recall checking it back the I changed the oil.

Started my Bronco and it comes up on the dash telling me I need an oil change. It has only been 430 miles since the last, but it was done back in April. I was probably going to do it anyway regardless of mileage as it was over six months but I like to think I am much more aggressive about...

Horror stories certainly abound. I started doing oil changes after I had an engine failure as a result of a shop over tightening the drain plug causing it to leak. I never had a problem with oil loss before that. Car did not give me a clue it was low on oil till it was down so low that too...

I can see the oil well enough, it is all the extra oil that sits in the dip stick channel that gets on it.

the problem is too much oil is sticking to it that is in the dip-stick channel.

Yes, I look at both sides to judge, but even then there is so much extra it becomes difficult.

I am old enough to realize it is a recipe eventually to get burnt.

What amount do you put in? And when you check does it need more? I know I've seen the amount but never trust it till I've prove it repeatable. Part of the problem I suppose is I am new to doing changes on the Bronco. On my explorer I know that I can count on 6 quarts putting me just on...

I do start it for a minute to get it off the ramps after the initial fill. Maybe I am checking too early.

Just did my third oil change, and I really find the dipstick harder to read than any other vehicle I have had. It seems like the dipstick goes down thru a passage that brings oil from the top of the head to the bottom of the engine. And since it is right there next to the main fill, oil...

I was asking myself the other day when filling up just what benefit is there to not having a cap? A few seconds? Inevitably whatever mechanism they have in the cap that lets air in but not vapors out fails and $15 cap is easy to replace. Can't imagine replacing the capless assembly is easy...

I think the bees were let out before the project was done.

And in the tighten rather than loosen direction.

So this feature, which is specifically for off road use, alarms that sway bar is disconnected (or at least faulted) and it disables 4x4? That is an extra special way of putting one in more jam than the fault creates in the first place.

I am not interested in selling. I expect my22 2DR base with 4K miles to take a bath. For my 22 BD with 2DR Manual and squatch to maybe get a premium but not more than I paid. I am not interested in selling either.

I won't answer because if I did, it would shut iff the next day.

I had more problem in the old days. I used to be up front saying if the wheel isn't centered, I wouldn't sign off on the work. Prior to that it would always be off (this was the 80s and 90s). I have had so few problems since that I fell out of this habit. The newest vehicle, till my...

That is not a pulling problem then. The wheel isn't centered when aligned, or they got lazy and made all the adjustment to one side.

Not hot pink, more like Barbie pink

Not sure how to read. So are they not accepting orders for manuals and not producing manuals?