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I posted it somewhere around here. lol Other than wiring the lockers, and the yet-to-be-resolved FDU delete issue, it's 4 bolts. Be sure to install the drive shaft before you bolt the diff in place or it won't clear the mounting cup - at least mine wouldn't. Locker wiring is trivial; 12v...

Just as the original is a Dana Advantek axle. The upgrades are crazy priced IMO. I can replace a lot of CV joints for the $2650 they're asking for the improved versions. I get it though. I'm just not their customer, and there's nothing wrong with that.

Right. I don't need that. I just converted a non-SAS 3.73 open diff BB to F&R locked 4.70's.

CJ Pony Parts had the best price back when I bought mine. Forscan is a Russian guy's hex code editing software.

I wired mine separately and opted not to try factory integration because the front diff unlocks at 20mph via the computer. I have the FAD section with the actuator bolted under the truck at the moment. Don't really want to spend $825 after dropping $5k in axles & shafts just to fix a block of...

Except the harness is different under the engine. If your truck came with a FDU and no locker, you're missing the whole circuit to connect the locker. There's literally nothing there - just like in back if you didn't get the locker when it was built.

Video courtesy of my wife hanging out the window with her phone. 🤣

I did see one mention of a dealer supposedly getting it done. I've still yet to receive any updates out of my Ford CS rep since this summer.

I ended up just going with 12v constant. Me and the Mrs. are going to a ORV park tomorrow, so that'll be the first real test. I did hear the solenoids trigger when the windows were down, but we have a commercial deep freezer out there and the fan destroys the audio on videos.

Just the crash bars.

35x12.5x18 Yoko's -12 backspacing

Thanks! While I was at it, I started working on my own hidden winch mount, but discovered I need a few more chunks of steel first. I also corrected the odd angle the front bumper was sitting, so it was pretty productive despite not hitting all my goals.

I bolted through the core support. There's an opening right above where the clamps are, so I was able to drop the screws in from above and tighten. Were I to do it again, I'd put thread-certs into the core support and use an intermediate mounting plate to bolt the clamps onto and then bolt to...

All that's left is to trim the fender liners and decide if I'm going to put a hose clamp on the lines to anchor them to the frame. As you can see, there's nothing between the bottom of the bumper and the wheel, so there's that little bit extra approach clearance for rocks.

Thanks to a stomach bug and copious amounts of Pepto 😳, I was able to take the truck out of commission the last couple days and finally install the extreme clearance kit body mounts. These really clean up the chassis behind the front bumper, and open up a world of protected space for the...

7075 isn't weldable and Ti isn't cost effective. 🙄

Steel. 😆

I'm actually getting ready to drop my diff about 1.5" just to ease the CV angles at full droop. The Hitachi's were almost unbearable with expansion joints and pot holes at factory ride height. I have no regert's about the money spent on my King's. They ride awesome and are dead sexy! 😁

Skid plate, but yes, there's a picture of the issue posted earlier. My replacement clamp will be here later this week.

My lights aren't magnetized.