No I'm referring to the long bolts that hold the bumper on from the front. For the plates over the crumple zone sure grade 8 would be overkill. LOD supplies 8.8
Ford uses M12, not sure the pitch. LOD has you reuse the stock bolts and ditch the nut plate in favored of nuts and washer. My kit will include all 1/2" hardware and also eliminate the nut plate.
Another vote for handheld GMRS. Mine saved my butt after the wheeling when my tow rig broke down and I had no cell service, I was able to raise my buddy who had gone on ahead.
You probably will too, I didn't add any thickness to the LODs. They might be OK once torqued down but I'm not liking how little thread there is. The single bolt on the outside ear is fine but the RC mount + spacers adds another 1/2" or so.
I'm switching to 1/2-13 grade 8.
The inner shimmed plates are super solid and no distortion, big win IMO. Not pictured was a 2x3" 3/16 shim that went under the rear hole but not welded. The 2 work together to bridge the bump.
Fun fact, the existing holes they have you use are not even, the driver side was about 1/2" higher...
They would have prevented the RC mount damage I'm sure. Frame? Anyone's guess if it would have still bent. At least the frame tube didn't bend, just the face plates. I *think* the LOD brackets would have prevented that.
The RC mount straddles the plate which isn't flat. I'd prefer something even more substantial than those little rings and am debating cutting some out.
Possibly, but installation would be a bear if even possible if you still have crash bar brackets. It's tricky enough feeding the LOD plates in.
The modified LOD installation was a success and my bumper sits square again. Unfortunately the bolts are now too short to hold the RC mount so I have...