Search results

It’s not clear from his webpage but I would think he is adding a Panhard bar to constrain lateral motion on the 3 link? @SierraBronco

With diligent kinematic analysis, you can probably keep the CV angles under control. It does seem that he has rigorously designed the full suspension cycling. 🤷‍♂️

How are the turn portals working out?

Sssoooo… slightly confused and trying to make sense of this thread… lithium wipers from Walmart for the win? But only with non prorated warranty?

Curious about the extended length in the front. Is this a typo, 24.3” or is 23.4” correct?

The wood is for distributing loads evenly in sand, dirt, and mud. Not for trying to get a hill level. Some 2x10s or 12s work great.

Actually a decent metaphor. Your house is not going to fall apart from a drywall crack and your engine is not going to fail from this.

I would also be concerned about how it affects your warranty.

As @crenca said the factory jack is sketchy. But usable in a pinch. I carry a 2x10 about 12” long to use as a leveling base. I also sometimes bring a different jack along. The one @CalvinT linked. It all depends on where I am going. I think @5GENIDN has used this Jack. I just recently got one...

I am going to echo this for others. Jack location matters.

Adding an unpopular opinion here. Control arms and links are not necessary for 99% of users. And not necessary for 2” lift. They are way over hyped and pushed. They are merely metal rods of given length. Oem lengths are fine for a 2” lift. Fancy billet vs tube is kinda silly. Why machine a...

Always lots of opinions here. I am going to echo this. For your use case the Bronco is already a perfect platform and doesn’t need much. The only thing I would add is try to keep lift at 2”. Helps keep CG down some. Will also help with alignment. 3” lift is starting to be difficult for OEM UCAs.

What are extended and compressed lengths of these, front and rear? What spring rates, front and rear?

Rotate every 1/2 mile and choose any random ass pattern you can come up with after a twelve pack. Tire wear will be guaranteed to be perfectly even and consistent. No fun on longer trips, except the 12 pack part.

It’s not just you. He is angry with the whole world.

I got some of these to replace stock nonSAS wheels, greatly reducing my build credibility. No power tools and take your time with the rings. All will be good. I have not converted them to beadlocks yet but will at some point. @SierraBronco runs them as beadlocks and has had good success...

I am sure you could see some interesting trends just measuring surface temps. Agree that this all seems very silly. It would be hard to convince me this is an issue. I am not really a tire guy but simply static equilibrium dictates the contact patch size, given the air pressure and load...

@kodiakisland. Curious what your thoughts are on this?

Don’t put bits and pieces from the tires into your shocks. They tend to get stuck in the valving holes and cause improper compression. For some strange reasons the rubber particles seem to move more freely during rebound. Interesting phenomenon to say the least.

This thread reminds me… I was going to make some brackets to drop the steering rack instead of putting in a hoss 3.0 rack. Those tierod angles at full droop are getting big.