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You used Mercon V or Mercon LV in the transfer case? 75W-140 is no problem in any of the Bronco axles--Dana specifies it for every Advantek axle they manufacture.

Are these the Ford Performance lug nuts and you added the Bronco or?

Correct; the number to the left of the "W" indicates cold weather performance and both are 75. As for the MPG hit due to 75W-140 vs. 75W-90, a headwind, hills/mountains, higher load, or your right foot will have more of an impact on MPG than a viscosity change ever will.

Review my post here - https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/carbonsteels-journal.86135/post-2133960 At the bottom there is a parts list to replace the OEM studs and plastic clips with longer studs and stainless rubber lined hose clamps. You can see them in the view named " Video 5 - Cover...

22 ft-lb or 30 nm. Added along with the torque pattern (on the wheels tab). Be sure to remove the yellow thread locker from the bolt threads and add a bit of anti-seize to them.

Complete BS and old wives tales that never cease to end. There is no oil that will prevent the rings from seating and cylinder glaze is a thing of the past. There are engines that have cross hatch patterns in the cylinders tens of thousands of miles down the road later. You did the right thing...

You may want to be sure the bracket is pushed up as far it can go. I ended up replacing all of the mounting bolts with shorter ones because there was 10mm of thread poking towards the tires.

Is it a SAS vs. Non-SAS fit issue? My Wildtrak with IAGs:

I wanted to share this with everyone who is using a PPE pan. This o-ring is "out of the box" on my PPE pan and as you can see, it is starting to tear. I plan to reach out to PPE for a replacement, but everyone, be aware:

No weeps so far and I think I'll be able to loosen it and attach the drain hose when I need to change the oil without removing the skid plate.

As expected, nothing found. Fluid level is good, there are no leaks, and no codes. The whine he attributed to the pump which has a chain drive versus a gear. Not sure that I buy that one since it only recently started whining. But, basically, drive it like you stole it until it fails. I have a...

Heading back into the local dealer today for them to check out my 10R60--they do not seem to have much experience with them. A few surrounding dealers have a 2+ month wait and that is you dropping your vehicle and leaving with the dealer for that amount of time (really?, no list you can join?)...

I have never not seen metal in any Dana 44 Advantek rear axle. The transfer case and transmission perhaps not so much given the fact that the transmission is both pressurized and has a filter in it. I'll be willing to bet a steak dinner on any Dana 44 axle if you take paper towels and wipe out...

The rear is 100% in operation while the vehicle is moving and will typically always generate more metal and contaminates.

@2door - apologies for another question. What would you say the minimum length for the pigtails would need to be? I want to offset my heat shrink butt connectors, but don't want to cause the wires to be too short. Each side has about 5" of wire. I have the capable bumper with fog lights so not...

I hear you. I have 9600 miles on it and there should not be any whining. I need to find another dealer, but here in COS, there is only 1--I suppose I could drive it to Denver. I took it in today to have the trailer towing programmed and they could not find any settings in FDRS to do it. They...

I know. I have not dived into mine--pretty sure it is going tango uniform. It has repeated the "stuck in second" crap again and now it has a whine that increases with speed. Something is going--I wish it would either go or throw code so that I can have it replaced.

Agree--TBH, I have no idea how you would bring it up to the 206°F - 215°F temperatures the service manual lists. I have never seen my temps hit that even climbing in the mountains.

@malpais - Driver's side towards the rear on the upper side. It looks like a large nut. @malpais (a quick edit): Here is the level (should be between 4 and 3 on the stick with the transmission at temperature and the engine idling in park):

I updated the transmission pan torque sequence image to indicate the location of the pan studs (6 of them with a 13MM head) versus the pan bolts (12 of them with an 8MM head). The stud locations are circled in red. @swamp2 + @Poppavein - I am still working on the 3.0L and 2.3L torque values...