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Hence my anxiety as I sat staring at it for a couple of hours. Thanks for the confirmation. If there is a will, there's a way.

I've installed the Mobridge amp and decided to tap into the old wiring from the B&O. I've mounted a tailgate sub and removed the wiring and clip from the stock enclosure. The stock wires are small, will this be an issue? Do I need to use 16 or 12 gauge? Gonna be pushing a lot more than 100...

I've just started have this intermittent problem, once while trying to unlock the car, and a couple of times, I move the fob from my left pocket (could be coincidence) to center of vehicle and it worked. Just like you I removed the back panels earlier in the week for an amp upgrade. Note, I...

My first dive into car audio, so please be patient :) I'll try to jump straight to the question After a month of researching decided to pull trigger on Mobridge. If I were to go component speakers, which way would be easier to install and tune. I am assuming I would use active crossover...

have you tried disabling speed compensating in your settings?

Damn, Chat GPT is noooo joke. Wish I could redo college :ROFLMAO:

I did this update with speakers I found on clearance from a local stereo store. 4 inch focal acx for the front and 6.5 Kenwood Excelons for the back with SSV pods. I didn't add any deadening to any of these area. I will if I ever have to take apart. The sound is much improved, more full with...

Im not sure what Im looking at here. Did you remove the case of the amp? If so, how did you mount it back there?

As a noob, I have been doing a lot of reading preparing to upgrade (probably too much) :) - I recall reading or a video that says it it best to keep power runs down the driver side and speakers down the passenger side to avoid the possibility of power lines interfering with the speaker signals.

Never thought of the lack of air. Interested to see how the smaller sub works.

**Update** After putting panels back on, the technician wanted to try one more thing. Went back in and replaced the hardware screws wrapping them in felt-like material (ex. near thumb in picture) and metal clips Success - only rattle remaining is now the Tail Light. I will play with that

I think the Ford technician and I have found the final piece of my rattle. First two things have helped - Ford replaced sub (tremendous difference) - they put some isolation material between some of the screw mounting points as seen on one of the screws near my thumb and wedge some neofoam (??)...

Inquiry - PM sent

I took mine back to Ford after just 2 weeks. They checked and said it needed a new sub. Taking back tomorrow to have it installed, I will report back afterwards

I have a Kuat Transfer - do you think bigger drop like 4 or 6 inches drop would be enough for you to tilt bikes out of the way?