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S&B is a top performer. The section to the turbo is bigger allowing better air flow. But I wouldn’t change it unless you have other modifications. pro cal tuner is going to be a starting point

Loosen it before starting (keep it snug) and practice taking it out and reinstalling while engine is cold. Once you get the process down it will make it easier to check while engine is running and it gets hot.

I use a product called “salt shift rust shield”. Kind like that but only last about a yr. But I spray it on myself and one bottle 40.00 will do 3 applications. Takes me about 20mins.

Is that stuff sticky or tacky when you put it on?

I like the solar because it plugs right into the 12v plug in the center console and all I have to do is lay the solar panel in the windshield area.

I bought the “battery tender” solar charger. Paid 55.00 for it and it work fine. Just have to make sure you get the one designed for AGM batteries. https://www.batterytender.com/products/battery-tender%C2%AE12v-5w-solar-battery-charger-and-maintainer-with-windshield-mount

Expected? Will your testing include a comparison between the two? If it is better I would definitely pony up and by one

So the OE top for a 4 Door is 3 pieces and you can remove 2 pieces to have open sky views for all seats. It looks like the other tops Rally and TOR only have one removable piece so only front seats have an open view. Is this correct?

I would recommend doing the Trans fluid as well (especially if it’s an automatic) and replace the pan with a PPE pan so next time you don’t have to remove it. Also on your rear differential cover are you using the factory cover? Or did you upgrade to a cover with a drain plug.

Can side windows and rear window be removed to ride it in safari mode?

Salt Shift “rust shield” If you don’t want a sticky undercoating look this is the best stuff and easy to use.

Hard finish products have their pros and cons. I use Salt Shift rust shield (easiest stuff to ever use) and it works. You may have to reapply ever 2-3 years but well worth it and a lot less expensive

Yes but it’s not a waste gate noise. I have looked into that and it’s clearly an octane ping. I isolated the waste gate and still the noise is present.

We have to do this all the time with medium duty truck repairs because of all the different upfitter applications. on a side note is there any insight you can provide on why the 2.3 on cold start up (outside ambient temps cooler 50degs and lower) that it will octane ping until temps inside the...

Here is a picture showing a BOV that won’t seat correctly in their Hot pipe and that same BOV will fit in the OE charge pipe.

I wouldn’t buy another product from them ever again. Some of their products are manufactured with the wrong specs and when called out on it they just point the finger at someone else and don’t accept responsibility. Customer service is horrible and their tech department and engineers are a...

Just an FYI both AFR and CV Fab charge pipes are not machined correctly on the 2.3 (not sure about the 2.7 pipes). I can say CV Fab when shown this completely ignored this and says they are only designed for OE BOV and there is an issue with even the OE BOV. I have given the same info to AFE and...

Agreed. But the issue is the fact that CV Fab is making defective products and then won’t warranty them and tries to point blame on other companies. I have provided them documentation and video evidence that they are manufacturing parts incorrectly and they chose to do nothing.

Not just the Turbo Smart BOV any fixed BOV that is not a “movable plunger” type BOV will not work. I have worked with Turbo Smart in the beginning because CV Fab said it was their BOV issue. After digging deeper it is clearly a CV Fab issue as I have made measurements and found that the milling...

I would steer clear of anything that CV Fab sells. They have had fitment issues and I know for a fact 100% that their cooler pipes for the 2.3 are not milled correctly. And they are dodging responsibility.