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you would be correct. in simple terms, clipping is very bad. (and is a form of distortion. but only one form) i didnt take offense, sorry if it came off that way. just want to make sure we are not misusing terms. when it comes to power, i see it constantly.

while i appreciate the response. i do have an understanding of power figures and how silly they can be. you make a number of claims here without much but anecdotal evidence. there are three things which may sound similar but are different. 1. distortion: this is simply when the output differs...

it appears this speaker is only rated for 50W RMS, depending on where it is impedance dips and where the factory EQ is sending power, its possible its being overdriven and over heating. i dont think the factory amp is sending "lots of clipped signals".

the EQ is created specifically for the F150 and its speakers + locations of everything. i cannot understate how bad of an idea it would be to attempt to shoehorn an F150 EQ to the bronco. as far as the B&o in the bronco. if everything is stock, i would reset the sound settings to default and...

the B&o unleashed system in the F150 is a 10 channel amp vs the 6 channel amp in the Bronco. while its true the 10channel amp is more overall power, theF150 one has an F150 specific EQ applied to it. the connectors might also have unique keyways. the amps also mount completely differently so...

you can look at the speaker area of most speakers on their spec sheets but two 10s (= ~one14") should be significantly more surface area than a single 12. but excursion comes into play here too. usually, it is recommended to buy one nice sub as opposed to two "ok" ones. but how things fit in...

personally, what i would do is listen to good quality tracks while parked(measure if you have the capability) and figure out what you want to improve. step one will probably be fixing any rattles. but once you have nailed down what you want to improve you can look at specific places. i think...

assuming you didnt remove the fastener before you took these pictures. You are missing a fastener. maybe the dealership removed it and forgot to put it back? there is a few other threads about where the common touch points are back here might be worth it to take a look if its not that fastener...

If you have the B&o, you already have a psuedo 3 way as the IP LH speaker is a coax. If you dont have B&o, i think going to a coax is the easiest way to do it. As others have said, the A pillar has an airbag and the structural sheet metal pillar. id be hesitant to start tearing up stuff there...

so this thread has the second item i mentioned. Subwoofer Rattle? I think I gotter licked. | Bronco6G - 2021+ Ford Bronco & Bronco Raptor Forum, News, Blog & Owners Community i couldnt find the thread on the first part so i just grabbed a screenshot from someone elses post to show the area...

someone posted an in-depth youtube video about it from bronco nation before. B&o typically doesnt really specific wattage as it is very measurement dependent but i think i have seen some estimates in the 500-600W range. Most fords/lincolns ive tried have supported FLAC via USB as thats how i...

good point about the fuse, regardless its probably best you keep this up so that if someone else has the same problem they can see how you solved it. Glad to hear its fixed

my first thought is that a fuse was tripped. would also be good to know if you have base audio or B&o

Im not 100% sure what your question is. im including the lower kick panel speakers as part of the front left and front right. this is where it gets confusing though, although the kick panel woofer+ the IP coax act "similarly" to a single tower speaker in a home theater setup they require a...

ive seen a few reports on here and other bronco forums of a handful of places that are causing the rattle 1. just under the subwoofer the sheetmetal could be touching the subwoofer 2. the top of the subwoofer and the trim panel seems fairly hit or miss but if you are having the problem its...

basically correct, the sub is a dual coil sub so its set up as one channel for each coil as it is the most power hungry speaker. i will say using home theater terminology can lead to confusion here as although there is 9 channels of amplification its not quite accurate to call it a 7.2 system...

correct, a spider fresh off of the assemble line will be stiffer than one that has been cycled some # of times (this is true of surrounds as well but they are generally much more complaint than the spider) BUT, a well-designed speaker will have a stable compliance from a thousand cycles into...

if few things to note: #1 you arent going to see "break in" changing the sound beyond the first handful of seconds. in the case of a subwoofer, just napkin math shows that at 50Hz you will very quickly have reached hundreds and thousands of cycles of the components that move in the speaker. #2...

the stock B&O amp has a channel for each coil so its not parallel or series.

it's very possible the fasteners that attach something in that area are a touch loose and you are hearing it slide over one thread one way or the other and back again, id recommend checking the bolts behind the rear quarter panel or just bringing it to the dealer. my friends bronco was fixed...