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If the Subwoofer is making noise it might be blown, would reccomend taking it to the dealer for a swap.

I'm fairly sure there is a plain 6.5 that they have. But it's extra cost, confusing for the customer and as you said even worse that it doesn't fit lol

any kit that puts tweeters in those lower foot areas should immediately be seriously questioned. basic car audio experience tells you to never do that when you have the dash available for tweeters.

The amp now powers all of the speakers. It's a totally different amp. One look at them side by side shows it's significant. I also noted that the part numbers for every single speaker have changed. It's very different.

You can model the performance in WinISD fairly easily both ways to see what will be better.

are you swapping in a different subwoofer and want it sealed? if so a CLD patch with something rigid like MDF behind it would be a good and cheap solution. otherwise i would recommend leaving the stock subwoofer as designed.

I have some fairly high end audio equipment. While its true that great recordings are elevated even more with a great system. I can't think of any recordings that are ruined for me with the better system. I have plenty of stuff from all genres and a really good system excels with basically any...

It depends on how you want to count speakers. They are using a special coax for the rear pods and the left and right dash. Each has a tweeter and a midrange on a single channel. So it's 8 physical locations but 12 unique drivers.

the wiring should in theory be easier as they all go back to the amp instead of some off the HU

as others have said the MY25 is a totally new system. all of the speakers in the MY25 are new compared to the MY24 and before (you can check the PNs). the 25 also has all the speakers off of the amp, so be careful to not confuse them as they are quite different in hardware and wiring!

i haven't "lived" with a bronco like others here so take it with some grains of salt, just going off the one i had for a test drive and my friends. i do NOT think its really worth swapping out speakers without going to a new DSP and i do NOT think its worth it to swap to a new DSP and leaving...

the fader& balance in ford/Lincoln vehicles works by reducing the output of speakers that you have moved away from. aka balance right starts turning down the left side, fader forward turns down the rear. it does not boost anything. the subwoofer is also attenuated with every move away from center.

subwoofer performance in a box can be easily modeled with WinISD. having a box "too big" has some drawbacks but if you understand them it will not make "loose bass". generally, the course of action is to pick a subwoofer&box and then pick an amp that can supply enough power to for the output...

deaden it as much as you can and tighten it down. there is only so much you can do to the metal ball though.

This is incorrect. 2025 has Upgraded 2 way speakers in the dash (4) Upgraded center channel (1) Upgraded kick panel woofers (2) Upgraded rear speakers, now 2 ways (4) Upgraded Subwoofer (1) (12 total) Upgraded amp too

i would assume ragnarkon is correct here.

yes he is talking about tuning via an external DSP. one note: is that unless you have a good understanding of your speakers and amps capabilities, you should avoid boosts in the EQ. just do cuts

a target curve for a car is different than that of a room, namely, more bass. googling car target curve should pull up some of the more commonly used ones. use can use a target curve to give you a rough estimate of where you should be but there is more to the performance of a system than how it...

a bad speaker should be under warranty. dealer should be able to swap it out for you.

and this is all without getting into the fact that the power rating on a speaker is a Thermal rating. it says nothing about the performance at that input. the branded audio amplifiers are often running boosted rails, which would give them 20 some, 30 some or 40 some volts to drive the speakers...