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It took me a bit of tweaking with the sensor rods. I have aftermarket ones. Initially, I was so off it would lock me out of the pcm. I’d get an error on my dash. Once it’s so far off mm wise than what the factory allows, it WILL lock you out and you have to play with the sensor to get it back...

I’m in the valley and might be able to help you with forscan. Shoot me a DM

Just did mine, located in the SFV. Was a bit of a pain in the ass if you’re out of the allotted height that the computer allows. Do you have access to forscan?

Building a kit around a 17” wheel is where it’s starts to get dicey. I had a bbk on my truck and decided to sell it because I wanted to run a 17” wheel. With my bbk I had to run a 20” wheel and traditionally the benchmark is a 17” wheel. Only time a 20” wheel is okay in my book is if you’re...

I don’t have much information, yet, but I believe the rotor size will be the same size because they want a 17” wheel to fit. 17” wheel seems to be today’s standard for off-roaders, so they designed the kit with that in mind.

Thank you. Yes, it’s my braptor. Wilwood used my braptor for R&D of the kit so they wanted to install the kit to ensure fitment and function.

Braptors at Wilwood HQ now getting the kit installed now. Wilwood tells me the kit should be available in about a month. Aesthetically, I went with Sebring Orange and black letters.

Don’t know how far you are from this spot, but this place is in San Diego: https://www.instagram.com/socalsuspension?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==

I’m in the valley and don’t really trust many shops so I DIY, but this place seems to take pride in what they do: https://yelp.to/1oyjV9XYjh Not quite in the SFV, but not too far either.

Here ya go.

Run a bfg 39” km3 with KMC impact -12. For city driving I didn’t notice any rubbing at stock height. I ran stock higher for a few weeks. I’m now on hyperco 2/1 springs and there is no rubbing.

I had a buddy design me something similar and print it out if PLA, but because it’s a hard surface, it didn’t help. I’m hoping because these are rubber it’ll help isolate.

If there isn’t a way to tighten up the dashboard itself, I might try using these. https://www.tackform.com/products/ar-rst1-the-arm-rest-arm-support-and-cable-management-system

Thank you. When I installed the rail, I didn’t use the screws they provided for the plastic end legs. I took the dash apart and I used machine fasteners that used a washer and nylon locknut on the backside to secure those end legs to the dash. I did that to try to prevent some of that movement...

I don’t think so. I get that movement/vibration when I’m driving over a little bit of a bumpy road or pothole, etc. I know stuff is designed with tolerance in mind, but this seems a little excessive in my opinion.

Hey there, I have a 67 designs byod full rail and love it; however, what I don’t really like is that the dashboard vibration/movement from everyday driving conditions causes my phone or tablet to vibrate. I’m not using extremely long arms for the rail, they’re just enough to clear the...

My battery bank is over 80AH. I’m running all the same lithium chemistry so I’m not really concerned as all batteries will be ran in parallel. I designed the battery bank for my audio system, not really to run accessories while the vehicle is off.

Been a minute since I posted, but I had a rear storage compartment built for my braptor. I am trying to preserve as much space as possible. It’s made from steel and was designed to drop in and be removed. The plan is to powder coat it a textured black with some semigloss and gloss black for...

I panted my top pretty much as soon as I got my braptor, but I had a feeling this might happen because I could see the honeycomb from the day I got it.

Had mine MIC top painted and ppfd and I can see the cracks starting to come in! So annoying…